Key Takeaways
- Color theory uses complementary colors to correct: green cancels red, orange cancels blue, yellow cancels purple
- Face shape correction uses highlighting (lighter colors) to bring forward and contouring (darker colors) to minimize
- Match foundation to jawline and neck; undertones should match client's natural skin tone
- Proper sanitation requires disposable applicators, sanitized brushes, and never double-dipping
- Special occasion makeup requires long-wearing products and consideration of lighting conditions
Last updated: January 2026
Makeup Application
Makeup application is both an art and science, requiring knowledge of color theory, face shapes, and proper sanitation. This section covers essential techniques tested on the NIC exam.
Color Theory for Makeup
The Color Wheel: Understanding color relationships is essential for makeup application:
| Color Type | Definition | Example |
|---|---|---|
| Primary Colors | Cannot be created by mixing | Red, Yellow, Blue |
| Secondary Colors | Created by mixing two primaries | Orange, Green, Violet |
| Tertiary Colors | Mix of primary and secondary | Red-orange, Blue-green |
| Complementary Colors | Opposite on color wheel | Red/Green, Blue/Orange, Yellow/Violet |
| Analogous Colors | Adjacent on color wheel | Yellow, Yellow-green, Green |
Color Correcting:
| Skin Concern | Corrector Color | How It Works |
|---|---|---|
| Redness/Acne | Green | Green cancels red (complementary) |
| Dark circles (blue) | Orange/Peach | Orange cancels blue |
| Dark circles (purple) | Yellow | Yellow cancels purple |
| Sallowness (yellow) | Lavender/Purple | Purple cancels yellow |
| Dullness | Pink | Adds brightness and warmth |
Warm vs. Cool Undertones:
| Undertone | Characteristics | Best Colors |
|---|---|---|
| Warm | Yellow, golden, peachy skin | Gold, bronze, coral, warm browns |
| Cool | Pink, red, bluish skin | Silver, rose, berry, cool browns |
| Neutral | Mix of warm and cool | Can wear both warm and cool colors |
Face Shapes and Corrective Techniques
The goal of corrective makeup is to create the illusion of an oval face shape:
| Face Shape | Characteristics | Corrective Technique |
|---|---|---|
| Oval | Balanced proportions | Ideal shape; minimal correction needed |
| Round | Wide at cheeks, short | Contour sides of face, highlight T-zone |
| Square | Wide jaw, angular | Soften corners with contour, highlight center |
| Oblong | Long, narrow | Contour forehead and chin, highlight cheeks |
| Heart | Wide forehead, narrow chin | Contour temples, highlight chin |
| Diamond | Wide cheekbones, narrow forehead/chin | Highlight forehead and chin |
Highlighting and Contouring Principles:
- Lighter colors bring features forward (highlight)
- Darker colors push features back (contour/minimize)
- Blend all products seamlessly for natural appearance
Nose Corrections:
| Nose Shape | Correction |
|---|---|
| Wide nose | Contour sides, highlight center |
| Long nose | Contour tip, highlight bridge |
| Crooked nose | Highlight straight line down center |
| Flat nose | Highlight bridge to create dimension |
Eye Shapes and Corrective Techniques
| Eye Shape | Characteristics | Corrective Technique |
|---|---|---|
| Almond | Ideal shape, balanced | Standard application techniques |
| Round | Visible white around iris | Extend liner, elongate with shadow |
| Hooded | Crease hidden by lid fold | Apply shadow above crease, use waterproof |
| Monolid | No visible crease | Create crease with shadow, gradient application |
| Deep-set | Eyes appear sunken | Light colors on lid, avoid dark inner corners |
| Protruding | Eyes appear prominent | Dark colors on lid, light on brow bone |
| Close-set | Eyes close together | Light inner corner, extend outer corners |
| Wide-set | Eyes far apart | Dark inner corners, keep focus centered |
| Downturned | Outer corners drop | Wing liner upward, lift outer shadow |
Product Types and Uses
Face Products:
| Product | Purpose | Application |
|---|---|---|
| Primer | Creates smooth base, extends wear | Apply before foundation |
| Foundation | Evens skin tone, coverage | Match to jawline/neck |
| Concealer | Covers blemishes, dark circles | Apply after foundation |
| Setting powder | Sets makeup, controls shine | Press or dust lightly |
| Bronzer | Adds warmth, dimension | Apply where sun hits naturally |
| Blush | Adds color to cheeks | Smile, apply to apples |
| Highlighter | Adds glow, dimension | High points of face |
Eye Products:
| Product | Purpose | Application |
|---|---|---|
| Eye primer | Prevents creasing, extends wear | Apply before shadow |
| Eyeshadow | Adds color, dimension | Lid, crease, highlight |
| Eyeliner | Defines eyes, adds drama | Lash line, upper/lower |
| Mascara | Lengthens, thickens lashes | Apply from root to tip |
| Brow products | Shapes, fills, defines | Follow natural arch |
Lip Products:
| Product | Purpose | Application |
|---|---|---|
| Lip liner | Defines, prevents bleeding | Outline and fill |
| Lipstick | Color and moisture | Direct or with brush |
| Lip gloss | Shine and dimension | Over lipstick or alone |
Sanitation for Makeup Application
Single-Use Items:
- Disposable mascara wands
- Lip gloss applicators
- Sponges and cotton pads
- Spatulas for product removal
Sanitizable Tools:
- Brushes (clean after each client)
- Palette spatulas
- Tweezers (disinfect between clients)
- Eyelash curlers (sanitize pads)
Product Hygiene:
- Never double-dip into products
- Use palette for decanting product
- Spray liquid products with alcohol
- Sharpen pencils between clients
- Never blow on brushes
Client Protection:
- Use headband and cape
- Avoid cross-contamination
- Check for allergies before application
- Never share mascara directly
Special Occasion Makeup
Bridal Makeup Considerations:
- Use long-wearing, waterproof products
- Schedule trial before wedding day
- Consider photography lighting
- Match to dress color and venue
- Build coverage gradually
Photography and HD Makeup:
- Avoid SPF (causes flashback)
- Use finely milled powders
- Build dimension with contouring
- Ensure seamless blending
- Check appearance in different lighting
Evening/Dramatic Makeup:
- Deeper, more pigmented colors
- Dramatic eye looks acceptable
- False lashes for added drama
- Setting spray for longevity
- Bold lip or bold eye (not both)
Test Your Knowledge
What color corrector should be used to neutralize redness from acne or rosacea?
A
B
C
D
Test Your Knowledge
When correcting a round face shape, where should contour be applied?
A
B
C
D
Test Your Knowledge
Which of the following is a proper sanitation practice for makeup application?
A
B
C
D