Hair Coloring

Hair coloring is one of the most requested salon services and a significant portion of the NIC exam. Understanding color theory, product types, developer selection, and safety procedures is essential for professional success.

Color Theory Fundamentals

Primary Colors

The three primary colors cannot be created by mixing other colors:

• Red
• Yellow
• Blue

Secondary Colors

Secondary colors are created by mixing equal parts of two primary colors:

• Orange = Red + Yellow
• Green = Yellow + Blue
• Violet (Purple) = Blue + Red

Tertiary Colors

Tertiary colors are created by mixing a primary with an adjacent secondary:

• Red-Orange, Yellow-Orange, Yellow-Green, Blue-Green, Blue-Violet, Red-Violet

The Color Wheel and Complementary Colors

Complementary colors are opposite each other on the color wheel and neutralize each other:

Application: To neutralize unwanted brassiness (orange) in hair, use a blue-based toner. To neutralize yellow tones, use violet-based products.

Hair Color Levels and Tones

The Level System

Level refers to the lightness or darkness of hair color on a scale of 1-10:

Underlying Pigment (Contributing Pigment)

When hair is lightened, it exposes its underlying pigment - the natural warm tones beneath the surface:

• Levels 1-4: Expose RED pigment
• Levels 5-6: Expose ORANGE pigment
• Levels 7-9: Expose YELLOW pigment
• Level 10+: Expose PALE YELLOW pigment

Understanding underlying pigment is crucial for achieving desired color results and neutralizing unwanted warmth.

Tone (Hue)

Tone refers to the warmth or coolness of color:

Types of Hair Color

Hair Color Categories in Detail

Temporary Color

• Also called: Color rinses, color mousses, color sprays
• How it works: Large color molecules coat the cuticle
• Removal: Washes out with one shampoo
• Uses: Special effects, temporary change, testing a shade

Semi-Permanent Color

• Also called: Direct dyes, no-lift color
• How it works: Stains the cuticle and partially penetrates cortex
• Removal: Fades over 6-12 shampoos
• Uses: Enhance natural color, blend gray, add tone
• Key point: Cannot lighten hair

Demi-Permanent Color

• Also called: Deposit-only color, no-lift color, gloss
• How it works: Uses low-volume developer to swell cuticle; deposits color
• Removal: Fades over 12-26 shampoos
• Uses: Refresh permanent color, blend gray, add shine
• Key point: Cannot lighten hair; deposits only

Permanent Color

• Also called: Oxidation color, oxidative color
• How it works: Developer opens cuticle; color molecules penetrate cortex; oxidation occurs
• Removal: Does not wash out; grows out
• Uses: Full gray coverage, lift natural color, dramatic changes
• Key point: CAN lighten AND deposit color

Developer (Hydrogen Peroxide) Selection

Developer (oxidizing agent) activates permanent and demi-permanent color.

Golden Rule: Higher volume = more lift but also more damage.

Hair Lightening (Bleaching)

Lighteners (bleach) remove natural and artificial pigment from hair.

Types of Lighteners:

Stages of Lightening: Hair passes through predictable stages when lightened:

1. Black → Brown → Red → Red-Orange → Orange → Orange-Yellow → Yellow → Pale Yellow

Understanding these stages helps you anticipate results and formulate correctly.

Color Application Methods

Virgin Color Application

For darker (deposit only) results:

1. Apply color to mid-shaft and ends
2. Process halfway
3. Apply to root area
4. Process to completion

For lighter results:

1. Apply color 1/2 inch from scalp to ends
2. Process most of the timing
3. Apply to root area (scalp heat accelerates processing)
4. Process to completion

Retouch Application

• Apply color to new growth only
• Avoid overlapping onto previously colored hair
• Overlapping causes buildup and damage
• Pull color through ends only in final 5 minutes if needed for refreshing

Preliminary Tests

Patch Test (Predisposition Test)

• Purpose: Check for allergic reaction
• When: 24-48 hours before ANY oxidation color service
• How: Apply small amount behind ear or inner elbow; wait 24-48 hours
• Positive reaction: Redness, swelling, itching = DO NOT COLOR

Strand Test

• Purpose: Predict color result, timing, condition
• When: Before every color service
• How: Apply color to small section; process; evaluate

Color Correction Basics

Common color problems and solutions:

Filling

Filling replaces missing underlying pigment before applying target color (needed when going darker after lightening).

Safety Precautions for Hair Color

Before Service:

• Complete consultation and analysis
• Check for contraindications (scalp conditions, metallic dyes, recent services)
• Perform patch test 24-48 hours in advance
• Perform strand test
• Wear protective gloves

During Service:

• Follow manufacturer's instructions
• Monitor processing time
• Check scalp for irritation
• Maintain proper ventilation
• Never add heat unless directed

After Service:

• Rinse and shampoo thoroughly
• Apply conditioner
• Document formula on client card
• Provide home care instructions
• Schedule retouch appointment

Contraindications for Hair Coloring