Key Takeaways
- The three main enhancement systems are acrylic (liquid and powder), gel (light-cured), and dip powder.
- Primer creates adhesion between the natural nail and enhancement by dehydrating the nail plate.
- Fill appointments are needed every 2-3 weeks to maintain enhancements and prevent lifting.
- Proper ventilation is required when working with acrylic products due to chemical fumes.
- Removal must be done carefully to avoid damage to the natural nail plate.
Nail Enhancements
Nail enhancements are artificial extensions or overlays applied to natural nails to add length, strength, or a consistent shape. The NIC exam covers "Application, Maintenance, and Removal Procedures for Nail Enhancement" as a significant portion of the Nail Care section.
Types of Nail Enhancements
| Type | Composition | Curing Method | Characteristics |
|---|---|---|---|
| Acrylic | Liquid monomer + powder polymer | Air dry (self-curing) | Strong, durable, easy to repair |
| Hard Gel | Pre-mixed gel polymer | UV/LED light | Strong, lightweight, no odor |
| Soft Gel/Gel Polish | Gel formula | UV/LED light | Flexible, natural look, soak-off |
| Dip Powder | Powder + bonding liquid | Air dry with activator | Strong, no UV light needed |
| Nail Wraps | Fabric (silk, fiberglass, linen) | Resin + activator | Lightweight, repairs natural nails |
| Nail Tips | Pre-formed plastic | Glue application | Add length before overlay |
Nail Forms vs. Nail Tips
Understanding the difference between forms and tips is essential:
| Feature | Nail Forms | Nail Tips |
|---|---|---|
| Purpose | Guide for sculpting extensions | Pre-made length addition |
| Material | Disposable paper/foil | Plastic |
| Application | Fitted under free edge | Glued to nail plate |
| Product applied on | Form itself | Over the blended tip |
| Best for | Custom shapes and lengths | Consistent, quick results |
| Skill level | More advanced | Beginner-friendly |
Acrylic Nail Application
Acrylic nails are created by combining liquid monomer with powder polymer, creating a moldable bead that hardens through air exposure.
Application Steps (Using Form)
| Step | Procedure | Key Points |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Sanitize and prep nail | Remove shine with light buffing |
| 2 | Apply dehydrator | Removes moisture and oils |
| 3 | Position nail form | Must fit snugly under free edge |
| 4 | Apply primer | Allow to "flash" (dry) 30-60 seconds |
| 5 | Pick up bead #1 | Place where form meets natural nail |
| 6 | Shape free edge | Create desired length and shape |
| 7 | Pick up bead #2 | Place in stress area (apex) |
| 8 | Shape and smooth | Create highest point at apex |
| 9 | Pick up bead #3 | Place near cuticle area |
| 10 | Blend and smooth | Thin at cuticle, thick at apex |
| 11 | Remove form | Once product is set |
| 12 | Shape and file | Refine shape, check from all angles |
| 13 | Buff to shine | Create smooth, glossy surface |
Acrylic Bead Consistency
The liquid-to-powder ratio is critical:
| Bead Type | Consistency | Use |
|---|---|---|
| Wet | Runny, flat | Too much liquid - floods cuticle |
| Medium | Dome shape, holds form | Ideal for most applications |
| Dry | Lumpy, crumbly | Too much powder - difficult to work |
Exam Tip: A properly mixed bead should have a smooth, dome-like shape and hold its form without running.
Gel Nail Application
Gel nails use a pre-mixed polymer that cures under UV or LED light. There are two main types:
Hard Gel vs. Soft Gel
| Feature | Hard Gel | Soft Gel (Gel Polish) |
|---|---|---|
| Strength | Very strong | Flexible |
| Removal | Must file off | Soak-off with acetone |
| Length | Can add significant length | Natural nail only |
| Durability | 3-4 weeks | 2-3 weeks |
| Thickness | Can build thickness | Thin coat |
Gel Application Steps
| Step | Procedure | Purpose |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Prep nail | Remove shine, dehydrate |
| 2 | Apply base coat | Adhesion layer |
| 3 | Cure in lamp | Harden base coat |
| 4 | Apply builder/color | Structure or color |
| 5 | Cure in lamp | Harden product |
| 6 | Apply top coat | Shine and protection |
| 7 | Cure in lamp | Final cure |
| 8 | Remove inhibition layer | Wipe with cleanser |
Dip Powder System
Dip powder nails are created by dipping the nail into colored powder after applying a bonding liquid. No UV light is required.
Application Steps:
- Prep and dehydrate natural nail
- Apply base/bonding liquid
- Dip nail into powder at 45-degree angle
- Tap off excess powder
- Repeat steps 2-4 for desired coverage (usually 2-3 times)
- Apply activator to harden
- File and shape
- Apply top coat
- Apply activator again for final cure
Advantages of Dip Powder:
- No UV/LED exposure
- Lightweight yet durable
- No strong odors
- Quick application
- Lasts 3-4 weeks
Fill and Maintenance Procedures
As natural nails grow, enhancements need regular maintenance to prevent lifting and maintain appearance.
Fill Appointment Steps
| Step | Procedure | Purpose |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Assess existing enhancement | Check for lifting, damage |
| 2 | Remove polish and shine | Prepare surface |
| 3 | File growth area | Blend new growth into enhancement |
| 4 | Address any lifting | File away lifted product |
| 5 | Clean and dehydrate | Prep new growth area |
| 6 | Apply primer to new growth | Adhesion |
| 7 | Apply product to fill area | Match existing enhancement |
| 8 | Rebalance if needed | Maintain proper apex position |
| 9 | Shape and refine | Blend old and new product |
| 10 | Buff and finish | Polish or buff to shine |
Fill Timing:
- Acrylic: Every 2-3 weeks
- Gel: Every 2-4 weeks
- Dip: Every 3-4 weeks
Removal Procedures
Improper removal damages the natural nail. Each system requires specific removal techniques:
Acrylic Removal
- File off top layer to break seal
- Soak cotton ball in acetone
- Wrap each finger in foil
- Soak for 15-20 minutes
- Gently push off softened acrylic
- Re-soak if needed
- Buff natural nail gently
- Apply cuticle oil and moisturizer
Gel Removal
Hard Gel: Must be filed off completely - cannot be soaked
Soft Gel/Gel Polish:
- File off top coat shine
- Apply acetone-soaked cotton to each nail
- Wrap in foil
- Soak 10-15 minutes
- Gently push off product
- Buff any remaining residue
- Moisturize
Dip Powder Removal
- File off top layer
- Soak in acetone for 10-15 minutes
- Gently push off softened powder
- Buff natural nail
- Moisturize
Safety Precautions and Ventilation
Working with nail enhancement chemicals requires proper safety measures:
Chemical Safety
| Chemical | Found In | Safety Concern |
|---|---|---|
| Monomer (EMA/MMA) | Acrylic liquid | Fumes, sensitization |
| Primer | All systems | Corrosive, burns skin |
| Acetone | Removers | Drying, flammable |
| Acrylates | Gels | Skin sensitization |
| Formaldehyde | Some hardeners | Sensitizer, carcinogen |
MMA vs. EMA
IMPORTANT: Methyl Methacrylate (MMA) is PROHIBITED in many states for nail products.
| Feature | MMA (Prohibited) | EMA (Approved) |
|---|---|---|
| Odor | Strong, fruity | Mild |
| Flexibility | Very hard, rigid | Flexible |
| Removal | Extremely difficult | Soaks off easier |
| Damage Risk | High (damages nail bed) | Lower |
| Price | Very cheap | Standard price |
How to Identify MMA:
- Unusually low price for products
- Extremely hard-to-remove enhancements
- Very strong, fruity odor
- Products that don't break when stressed (crack natural nail instead)
Ventilation Requirements
Proper ventilation protects both technician and client:
Minimum Requirements:
- Exhaust ventilation at workstation
- Table-top ventilation systems for acrylic
- Air purifiers with activated carbon filters
- Windows that can open
- Avoid enclosed, unventilated spaces
Best Practices:
- Work in well-ventilated areas
- Use covered containers for liquids
- Replace filters regularly
- Take breaks in fresh air
- Wear appropriate masks when needed
Personal Protective Equipment (PPE)
| Item | When to Use | Purpose |
|---|---|---|
| Gloves | Disinfection, chemical contact | Skin protection |
| Eye protection | Filing, chemical use | Eye protection |
| Dust mask | Filing enhancements | Prevent dust inhalation |
| Apron | All services | Protect clothing |
NIC Practical Exam: Nail Enhancement Section
The NIC Practical Exam includes sculptured nail application. Key points:
Time Allowed: 15 minutes for one nail using form
Evaluation Criteria:
- Proper nail preparation
- Correct form placement
- Appropriate bead consistency
- Proper product placement and shape
- Smooth, even surface
- Correct apex placement
- Proper shape and length
- No product on skin or cuticle
- Professional finish
Product Requirements:
- Sculptured nail products (powder, primer, liquid) must be in original containers with manufacturer's label
- NIC strongly recommends using odorless sculptured nail products during the exam
What is the purpose of primer in nail enhancement application?
How often should a client return for acrylic nail fills?
Which type of acrylic liquid is PROHIBITED in many states due to nail bed damage?