Key Takeaways
- Select shampoo based on the client's specific hair and scalp condition - one size does NOT fit all
- Always use the cushions of your fingertips during scalp massage, NEVER fingernails
- Ideal shampooing water temperature is 100-105°F (38-41°C); final rinse with cool water seals the cuticle
- Apply conditioner primarily to mid-lengths and ends, avoiding the scalp unless treating scalp conditions
- Protein treatments strengthen weak, damaged hair while moisturizing treatments add hydration to dry hair
Last updated: January 2026
Shampooing and Conditioning
Shampooing and conditioning are fundamental services that form the foundation of all hair care. Understanding product selection, proper techniques, and scalp treatments is essential for the NIC cosmetology exam and professional practice.
The Purpose of Shampooing
Shampoo serves multiple functions:
- Primary: Cleanse the scalp and hair of dirt, oil, debris, and product buildup
- Secondary: Prepare hair for other services (color, perms, styling)
- Therapeutic: Treat specific scalp conditions when using medicated formulas
Anatomy of Shampoo
All shampoos contain similar basic components:
| Component | Function | Examples |
|---|---|---|
| Water | Base/vehicle | Deionized or distilled water |
| Surfactants | Cleansing agents | Sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate, cocamidopropyl betaine |
| Conditioning agents | Add softness | Fatty alcohols, quaternary ammonium compounds |
| Preservatives | Prevent spoilage | Parabens, phenoxyethanol |
| Fragrance | Pleasant scent | Essential oils, synthetic fragrances |
| Special additives | Specific benefits | Proteins, vitamins, botanical extracts |
Types of Shampoo
| Shampoo Type | pH Range | Best For | Key Ingredients |
|---|---|---|---|
| Balancing/Normalizing | 4.5-5.5 | Normal hair; daily use | Gentle surfactants |
| Clarifying/Purifying | 6.0-8.0 | Product buildup; before chemical services | Stronger surfactants; chelating agents |
| Moisturizing/Hydrating | 4.5-5.5 | Dry, damaged, curly hair | Humectants, oils, glycerin |
| Volumizing | 4.5-5.5 | Fine, limp hair | Proteins; lightweight formulas |
| Strengthening/Fortifying | 4.5-5.5 | Weak, damaged hair | Proteins, keratin, amino acids |
| Color-Protecting | 4.5-5.5 | Color-treated hair | Sulfate-free; UV filters |
| Sulfate-Free | 4.5-5.5 | Color-treated, keratin-treated, sensitive | Mild surfactants (glucosides, betaines) |
| Medicated | Varies | Dandruff, psoriasis, seborrhea | Zinc pyrithione, ketoconazole, coal tar, selenium sulfide |
| Dry Shampoo | N/A | Between washes; oily roots | Starch, clay, alcohol |
Selecting the Right Shampoo
Match shampoo to the client's hair and scalp condition:
| Hair/Scalp Condition | Recommended Shampoo | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Normal hair, normal scalp | Balancing/Normalizing | Maintains natural balance |
| Dry hair, dry scalp | Moisturizing | Adds hydration without stripping |
| Oily hair, oily scalp | Clarifying (mild) | Removes excess sebum |
| Color-treated hair | Color-protecting, sulfate-free | Prevents color fading |
| Fine, limp hair | Volumizing | Adds body without weighing down |
| Damaged, brittle hair | Strengthening | Repairs and fortifies |
| Product buildup | Clarifying | Removes residue |
| Dandruff | Medicated | Treats fungal cause |
Proper Shampooing Technique
Step 1: Preparation
- Drape client properly (waterproof drape under towel)
- Remove tangles with wide-tooth comb
- Adjust shampoo bowl for client comfort
- Test water temperature on inner wrist (100-105°F / 38-41°C)
Step 2: Wetting
- Protect face and ears from water spray
- Saturate hair thoroughly with warm water
- Use moderate, consistent water pressure
- Ensure complete saturation from scalp to ends
Step 3: Application
- Dispense appropriate amount of shampoo (quarter to half-dollar size)
- Emulsify in palms before applying
- Apply to scalp first, then work through lengths
- Use firm but gentle pressure
Step 4: Manipulation
- Use the cushions of your fingertips, NEVER fingernails
- Work in circular motions on scalp
- Manipulate for 2-3 minutes minimum
- Cover entire scalp systematically
Step 5: Rinsing
- Rinse thoroughly until water runs clear
- Remove ALL shampoo residue
- Repeat if necessary (second shampoo often lathers better)
- Gently squeeze excess water before conditioning
Scalp Massage Movements
| Movement | Description | Benefits |
|---|---|---|
| Effleurage | Light, gliding strokes | Relaxation; spreads product |
| Petrissage | Kneading, lifting movements | Stimulates circulation |
| Friction | Circular rubbing with fingertips | Deep cleansing; stimulation |
| Tapotement | Light tapping | Stimulates nerve endings |
Conditioning Treatments
Conditioners restore moisture, improve manageability, and protect hair from damage.
| Conditioner Type | Processing Time | Best For | How It Works |
|---|---|---|---|
| Instant/Rinse-Out | 1-5 minutes | Normal hair; daily use | Coats cuticle; adds slip |
| Leave-In | None (not rinsed) | Dry, tangled, damaged hair | Continuous protection |
| Deep Conditioning/Mask | 10-30 minutes | Very dry, damaged hair | Penetrates cortex |
| Protein Treatment | 5-20 minutes | Weak, brittle, over-processed hair | Strengthens cortex |
| Moisturizing Treatment | 10-20 minutes | Dry, dehydrated hair | Adds hydration |
| Hot Oil Treatment | 5-10 minutes with heat | Very dry hair and scalp | Intense moisture; seals cuticle |
Proper Conditioning Technique
- Gently squeeze excess water from hair
- Dispense appropriate amount based on hair length/density
- Apply primarily to mid-lengths and ends (avoid scalp unless scalp treatment)
- Distribute evenly with fingers or wide-tooth comb
- Process according to manufacturer's directions
- Rinse thoroughly with cool water (seals cuticle)
Scalp Treatments
| Treatment Type | Purpose | When to Use |
|---|---|---|
| Dry Scalp Treatment | Add moisture; relieve itching | Dry, flaky, tight scalp |
| Oily Scalp Treatment | Balance sebum production | Excessively oily scalp |
| Exfoliating Treatment | Remove dead skin cells, buildup | Flaky scalp; before chemical services |
| Stimulating Treatment | Increase blood circulation | Sluggish scalp; thinning hair |
| Antiseptic/Medicated | Treat dandruff, fungal conditions | Dandruff; seborrheic dermatitis |
Water Temperature Guidelines
| Temperature | Fahrenheit | Celsius | Use For |
|---|---|---|---|
| Cool | 60-75°F | 15-24°C | Final rinse (seals cuticle); color-treated hair |
| Warm | 100-105°F | 38-41°C | Standard shampooing and conditioning |
| Hot | Above 105°F | Above 41°C | Generally NOT recommended (can burn scalp, strip color) |
Water Pressure Guidelines
- Light pressure: Sensitive scalp, elderly clients, after chemical services
- Moderate pressure: Standard services, most clients
- Firm pressure: Deep cleansing, scalp stimulation (if client is comfortable)
Always ask the client about their temperature and pressure preferences!
Test Your Knowledge
A client with color-treated hair asks for a shampoo recommendation. Which type should you suggest?
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Test Your Knowledge
During shampooing, which part of your hands should you use to manipulate the scalp?
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Test Your Knowledge
What is the ideal water temperature range for standard shampooing?
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D
Test Your Knowledge
Which type of conditioner would be BEST for a client with weak, brittle, over-processed hair?
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B
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D