Key Takeaways
- Basic facial follows: cleanse, analyze, exfoliate, steam, extract, massage, mask, tone, moisturize
- Exfoliation can be manual (scrubs, brushes, microdermabrasion) or chemical (AHAs, BHAs, enzymes)
- Extractions require proper softening with steam; never force an extraction
- Five massage movements: effleurage, petrissage, tapotement, friction, vibration
- Mask selection is based on skin type: clay for oily, cream for dry, gel for sensitive
Last updated: January 2026
Facial Treatments
The basic facial is a fundamental esthetic service that cleanses, exfoliates, and nourishes the skin. Understanding the proper sequence and techniques is essential for the NIC exam.
Basic Facial Procedure Steps
The basic facial follows a specific sequence for optimal results:
| Step | Procedure | Purpose |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Client consultation | Review intake form, discuss concerns |
| 2 | Client draping | Protect clothing and hair |
| 3 | Cleansing | Remove makeup, oil, debris |
| 4 | Skin analysis | Examine with magnifying lamp |
| 5 | Exfoliation | Remove dead skin cells |
| 6 | Steam/warm towels | Soften skin, open pores |
| 7 | Extractions | Remove comedones (if needed) |
| 8 | Massage | Stimulate circulation, relax muscles |
| 9 | Mask | Address specific skin concerns |
| 10 | Toner | Balance pH, prepare for moisture |
| 11 | Serums/moisturizer | Hydrate and protect |
| 12 | Sun protection | SPF application |
Cleansing Techniques
First Cleanse (Makeup Removal):
- Use oil-based or micellar cleanser
- Apply to dry skin with fingertips
- Work in circular motions
- Remove with damp sponges or towels
Second Cleanse (Deep Clean):
- Apply water-based cleanser to damp skin
- Massage using upward, circular motions
- Focus on T-zone for oily areas
- Remove thoroughly with sponges
Proper Removal Technique:
- Use 4x4 cotton or esthetic sponges
- Wipe from center outward
- Support skin to prevent tugging
- Rinse sponges frequently
Exfoliation Methods
Manual (Mechanical) Exfoliation:
| Type | Description | Best For |
|---|---|---|
| Scrubs | Granular products with particles | Normal to oily skin |
| Brushes | Rotating brush machine | Most skin types |
| Microdermabrasion | Crystal or diamond tip abrasion | Aging, scarring, uneven texture |
| Dermaplaning | Surgical blade removes vellus hair and dead cells | All skin types (not active acne) |
Chemical Exfoliation:
| Type | pH Level | Depth | Indications |
|---|---|---|---|
| AHAs (Glycolic, Lactic) | 3.0-4.0 | Superficial | Dry, aging, hyperpigmentation |
| BHAs (Salicylic) | 3.0-4.0 | Superficial | Oily, acne-prone |
| Enzyme (Papain, Bromelain) | 4.5-5.5 | Very superficial | Sensitive skin |
| Jessner's Peel | Varies | Medium | Hyperpigmentation, aging |
Extraction Techniques
Extractions remove comedones (blackheads and whiteheads) and must be performed safely:
Pre-Extraction:
- Steam or warm towels for 5-10 minutes
- Apply desincrustation solution for oily skin
- Ensure skin is softened and pores are open
Extraction Methods:
| Tool | Use | Technique |
|---|---|---|
| Fingers (wrapped) | All extractions | Apply even pressure on both sides |
| Comedone extractor | Blackheads | Position loop around comedone, press gently |
| Lancet | Milia, whiteheads | Sterile puncture to create opening (where licensed) |
Key Safety Points:
- Never force an extraction
- Work systematically across the face
- Limit extraction time (10-15 minutes max)
- Apply antiseptic after extractions
- Avoid extracting inflamed acne or pustules
Mask Types and Applications
| Mask Type | Benefits | Best For |
|---|---|---|
| Clay/Mud | Absorbs oil, deep cleanses, tightens | Oily, congested skin |
| Cream | Hydrates, softens, nourishes | Dry, mature skin |
| Gel | Cooling, soothing, hydrating | Sensitive, irritated skin |
| Sheet | Delivers concentrated ingredients | All skin types |
| Peel-off | Removes dead cells, tightens | Normal to oily skin |
| Paraffin | Deeply moisturizes, increases penetration | Dry, aging skin |
| Alginate (Modeling) | Hydrating, sealing, professional | Dehydrated, mature skin |
Application Technique:
- Apply with brush or spatula
- Start at neck, work up to forehead
- Avoid lips, nostrils, and eye area
- Leave appropriate time (10-20 minutes)
- Remove completely with warm towels or sponges
Massage Movements (Manipulations)
The five classic massage movements used in facial massage:
| Movement | Description | Benefits | Speed |
|---|---|---|---|
| Effleurage | Light, gliding strokes | Relaxes, warms tissue, begins/ends massage | Slow, rhythmic |
| Petrissage | Kneading, squeezing, pinching | Stimulates deeper tissue, increases circulation | Moderate |
| Tapotement | Tapping, percussion movements | Stimulates, tones, improves blood flow | Rapid, light |
| Friction | Circular movements with pressure | Stimulates circulation, penetrates deep tissue | Firm, controlled |
| Vibration | Trembling, shaking movements | Relaxes muscles, soothes nerves | Rapid, trembling |
Massage Guidelines:
- Effleurage begins and ends the massage
- Maintain contact throughout the massage
- Work in upward, outward motions (against gravity)
- Adjust pressure based on client comfort
- Contraindicated for inflamed acne, rosacea
Dr. Jacquet Movement:
- Specialized pinching movement for oily skin
- Stimulates sebaceous glands
- Helps with congestion and sluggish skin
Test Your Knowledge
What is the correct order for basic facial steps?
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Test Your Knowledge
Which massage movement involves light, gliding strokes and is used to begin and end the facial massage?
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B
C
D
Test Your Knowledge
Which type of chemical exfoliant is best for oily, acne-prone skin?
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B
C
D