Key Takeaways
- Hair texture (fine, medium, coarse) refers to the diameter of individual strands and affects processing time
- Hair porosity indicates how well hair absorbs moisture - high porosity processes quickly but is damage-prone
- The elasticity test determines cortex strength - hair that breaks when stretched should NOT receive chemical services
- Always check for contraindications like scalp diseases, open sores, and previous chemical treatments
- Perform patch tests 24-48 hours before oxidation color services to check for allergic reactions
Hair Analysis and Consultation
Hair analysis is the systematic examination of hair and scalp to determine the best services and products for each client. This critical first step represents a significant portion of the NIC cosmetology exam (45% covers hair care services) and is essential for successful outcomes in all hair services.
Why Hair Analysis Matters
Before performing any hair service, cosmetologists must assess the client's hair characteristics to:
- Select appropriate products and techniques
- Predict how hair will respond to chemical services
- Identify contraindications that would prevent services
- Set realistic expectations with the client
- Avoid damage and ensure client satisfaction
Hair Texture
Hair texture refers to the diameter or thickness of individual hair strands. Understanding texture helps determine processing times and product selection.
| Texture | Diameter | Characteristics | Service Considerations |
|---|---|---|---|
| Fine | Smallest diameter | Silky, soft, fragile, may lack volume | Processes quickly; use gentler formulas; over-processes easily |
| Medium | Average diameter | Most common; flexible; moderate resistance | Standard processing times; predictable results |
| Coarse | Largest diameter | Thick, strong, resistant, wiry | Requires longer processing; may need stronger formulas |
How to Test Texture: Hold a single strand between your fingers. Fine hair is barely perceptible; medium hair feels like a cotton thread; coarse hair feels like a piece of wire.
Hair Density
Hair density refers to the number of individual hair strands per square inch on the scalp - not the thickness of individual strands.
| Density Level | Strands per Sq. Inch | Visual Indicator | Service Considerations |
|---|---|---|---|
| Low (Thin) | Below average | Scalp easily visible | Use lighter products; avoid weighing down hair |
| Medium | Average (about 2,200) | Scalp somewhat visible | Standard product amounts |
| High (Thick) | Above average | Scalp barely visible | May need more product; longer service times |
Hair Porosity
Porosity describes the hair's ability to absorb and retain moisture, determined by the condition of the cuticle layer.
| Porosity Level | Cuticle Condition | Characteristics | Service Considerations |
|---|---|---|---|
| Low | Cuticles tight/flat | Resistant to chemicals; water beads up; slow to dry | Requires more processing time; may need heat or pre-softening |
| Normal | Cuticles slightly raised | Absorbs and holds moisture well | Standard processing times; predictable results |
| High | Cuticles open/damaged | Absorbs quickly; dries fast; frizzes easily | Processes very quickly; prone to over-processing; needs conditioning |
The Float Test: Drop clean hair strands in water. Low porosity hair floats; normal sinks slowly; high porosity sinks immediately.
The Slide Test: Slide fingers along a hair strand from end to root. Rough, bumpy feeling indicates high porosity (raised cuticles).
Hair Elasticity
Elasticity is the hair's ability to stretch and return to its original length without breaking, indicating the strength of the cortex.
| Elasticity Level | Stretch Capacity | Indicates | Service Considerations |
|---|---|---|---|
| Low | Breaks easily when stretched | Weak cortex; damaged hair | Chemical services NOT recommended; needs strengthening treatments |
| Normal | Stretches 50% when wet, returns | Healthy cortex | Good candidate for chemical services |
| High | Stretches significantly and returns | Very healthy, often curly hair | Ideal for perms, color, and other services |
The Stretch Test: Take a single wet strand and gently stretch it. Healthy hair stretches up to 50% of its length when wet and returns without breaking.
Scalp Conditions
Assessing the scalp is equally important before any service:
| Condition | Appearance | Characteristics | Action |
|---|---|---|---|
| Normal | Smooth, unblemished | Balanced oil production | Proceed with service |
| Dry Scalp | Flaky, tight, itchy | Lacks moisture/sebum | Use moisturizing products; avoid harsh chemicals |
| Oily Scalp | Shiny, greasy | Overactive sebaceous glands | Use clarifying products |
| Dandruff (Pityriasis) | White/gray flakes | Fungal condition | Refer to dermatologist if severe; use medicated shampoo |
| Psoriasis | Thick silvery scales | Autoimmune condition | DO NOT perform service; refer to physician |
| Open Sores/Cuts | Visible wounds | Compromised skin barrier | DO NOT perform service until healed |
| Pediculosis (Head Lice) | Nits on hair shaft | Parasitic infestation | DO NOT perform service; refer for treatment |
The Client Consultation Process
A thorough consultation protects both you and your client:
Step 1: Review Client History
- Previous chemical services (color, perm, relaxer)
- Time since last service
- Products currently used
- Known allergies or sensitivities
- Medical conditions affecting hair/scalp
Step 2: Physical Analysis
- Hair texture, density, porosity, elasticity
- Scalp condition
- Hair growth patterns
- Length and current style
Step 3: Visual Analysis
- Check for obvious damage
- Look for color inconsistencies
- Identify previous chemical treatments
- Note natural hair color and gray percentage
Step 4: Client Communication
- Discuss desired outcome
- Explain realistic expectations
- Recommend appropriate services
- Obtain informed consent
- Document everything on a client card
Contraindications for Hair Services
Contraindication means a condition or factor that serves as a reason to withhold a service. Never perform services when contraindications are present.
| Contraindication | Services to Avoid | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Scalp disease/infection | All services | Risk of spread, irritation, liability |
| Open wounds/sores | All services | Infection risk, chemical burns |
| Highly damaged hair | Chemical services | Further damage, breakage |
| Metallic hair dyes present | Oxidation color, perms | Dangerous chemical reaction |
| Recent henna application | Chemical services | Unpredictable results, damage |
| Pregnancy (first trimester) | Chemical services | Consult physician first |
| Positive patch test | Hair color | Allergic reaction risk |
| Failed strand test | Chemical service tested | Hair will not withstand service |
Preliminary Tests
Always perform appropriate tests before chemical services:
| Test | Purpose | How to Perform | When to Use |
|---|---|---|---|
| Patch Test (Predisposition Test) | Check for allergic reaction | Apply small amount of color behind ear or inner elbow; wait 24-48 hours | Before ANY oxidation color service |
| Strand Test | Predict color result and timing | Apply product to small section; process and evaluate | Before color services |
| Pull Test | Check hair strength | Grasp small section near scalp and gently tug | Before any chemical service |
| Porosity Test | Assess cuticle condition | Slide fingers along hair strand | Before perms and color |
| Elasticity Test | Check cortex strength | Stretch wet hair strand | Before chemical services |
A client's hair breaks immediately when stretched during an elasticity test. What does this indicate?
During a porosity test, a client's hair feels rough and bumpy when you slide your fingers from end to root. This indicates:
Which scalp condition is a CONTRAINDICATION that requires you to refuse service and refer the client to a physician?
A patch test (predisposition test) must be performed: