Key Takeaways
- Both wet and thermal styling temporarily change hydrogen bonds - styles last until hair gets wet again
- Direct blow dryer airflow DOWN the hair shaft to smooth the cuticle and reduce frizz
- Full-stem pin curls = maximum movement; no-stem pin curls = maximum volume
- ALWAYS use heat protectant before any thermal styling and NEVER use thermal tools on wet hair
- On-base roller placement creates maximum volume; off-base creates minimum volume with more curl
Hairstyling and Finishing
Hairstyling transforms hair into the desired shape and direction using wet and thermal techniques. Understanding both methods, along with proper product selection, is essential for NIC exam success and professional styling.
Wet Styling vs. Thermal Styling
| Aspect | Wet Styling | Thermal Styling |
|---|---|---|
| Hair State | Performed on wet hair | Performed on dry hair |
| Heat Source | Air drying or hood dryer | Direct heat tools |
| Bond Type Changed | Hydrogen bonds | Hydrogen bonds |
| Durability | Temporary (until wet) | Temporary (until wet) |
| Examples | Roller sets, finger waves, pin curls | Blow drying, flat iron, curling iron |
Wet Styling Techniques
Finger Waves
Finger waves are sculpted waves created using fingers and comb on wet hair with styling product.
Key Elements:
- Wave: The curl pattern formed
- Ridge: The raised area between waves
- Trough: The depression between waves
Creating Finger Waves:
- Apply firm-hold setting gel or lotion to wet hair
- Part hair and begin at front hairline
- Use comb to direct hair into "C" shape
- Place finger on ridge, comb hair in opposite direction
- Alternate direction with each wave
- Secure with clips if needed
- Dry under hood dryer or air dry
Pin Curls
Pin curls are formed by winding hair around fingers and securing at scalp.
Pin Curl Components:
| Part | Description | Determines |
|---|---|---|
| Base | Stationary foundation at scalp | Volume/lift |
| Stem | Hair between base and circle | Direction/mobility |
| Circle/Curl | The wound portion | Curl pattern |
Types of Pin Curl Bases:
| Base Type | Shape | Use |
|---|---|---|
| Rectangular | Rectangle | Even curl placement |
| Triangular | Triangle | Prevents splits at hairline |
| Arc/Half-Moon | Curved | Follows head curvature |
| Square | Square | Easy, versatile placement |
Pin Curl Patterns:
| Pattern | Direction | Result |
|---|---|---|
| Clockwise | Curls go right | Curls turn to the right |
| Counter-clockwise | Curls go left | Curls turn to the left |
| No-stem | Curl sits on base | Maximum volume, tight curl |
| Half-stem | Curl sits halfway off base | Medium movement, medium volume |
| Full-stem | Curl sits completely off base | Maximum movement, least volume |
Roller Setting
Rollers create curl and volume based on size and placement.
| Roller Placement | Position | Result |
|---|---|---|
| On-Base | Roller sits on its base | Maximum volume and lift |
| Half-Base | Roller sits halfway off base | Medium volume |
| Off-Base | Roller sits below base | Minimal volume, more curl |
| Overdirected | Roller sits in front of base | Exaggerated volume |
Roller Size and Curl:
- Small rollers: Tight, defined curls
- Medium rollers: Moderate curl and wave
- Large rollers: Loose waves and volume
Thermal Styling Techniques
Blow Drying
Blow drying uses heated air to style and dry hair while creating volume and smoothness.
Essential Blow Drying Tools:
| Tool | Purpose | Best For |
|---|---|---|
| Round brush | Volume, smoothness | Creating lift and bend |
| Paddle brush | Straightening | Smooth, sleek finishes |
| Vent brush | Quick drying | Textured, casual looks |
| Concentrator nozzle | Focused airflow | Precision styling, smoothness |
| Diffuser | Dispersed airflow | Curly/wavy hair; preserving texture |
Blow Drying Techniques:
| Technique | Method | Result |
|---|---|---|
| Round brush method | Wrap hair around brush, direct heat | Volume, body, curved ends |
| Paddle brush method | Pull hair taut while drying | Smooth, straight finish |
| Diffusing | Cup curls in diffuser | Defined curls, reduced frizz |
| Root lifting | Direct heat at roots, lift with brush | Maximum volume at crown |
| Wrapping | Wrap hair around head while drying | Smooth, straightened effect |
Proper Blow Drying Protocol:
- Towel dry to remove excess water
- Apply heat protectant product
- Section hair for control
- Dry roots first (take longest)
- Keep dryer 6-10 inches from hair
- Direct airflow DOWN the hair shaft (smooths cuticle)
- Finish with cool shot to set style
Flat Iron (Straightening)
Flat irons use two heated plates to temporarily straighten hair by breaking and reforming hydrogen bonds.
Temperature Guidelines:
| Hair Type | Temperature Range |
|---|---|
| Fine/Damaged | 250-300°F (120-150°C) |
| Medium/Normal | 300-380°F (150-195°C) |
| Coarse/Resistant | 380-450°F (195-230°C) |
Flat Iron Technique:
- Hair must be COMPLETELY DRY
- Apply heat protectant
- Section hair (work bottom to top)
- Take 1-2 inch sections
- Clamp near roots, glide smoothly to ends
- One pass is ideal (multiple passes = more damage)
- Allow hair to cool before touching
Curling Iron
Curling irons create temporary curls by wrapping hair around a heated barrel.
Barrel Size and Curl Type:
| Barrel Size | Curl Type | Best For |
|---|---|---|
| 3/8" - 1/2" | Tight, defined curls | Short hair, ringlets |
| 3/4" - 1" | Medium curls | Classic curls, versatile |
| 1 1/4" - 1 1/2" | Loose curls/waves | Beachy waves, glamour |
| 2" | Large waves | Volume, soft movement |
Curling Iron Techniques:
| Technique | Method | Result |
|---|---|---|
| Full curl | Wrap entire section, hold 5-10 sec | Defined spiral curl |
| Flat wrap | Wrap flat around barrel | Smooth wave |
| Half curl | Curl only ends | Curled ends, straight roots |
| Alternating | Alternate curl direction | Natural, beachy texture |
Safety with Thermal Tools:
- Always test temperature on paper towel first
- Never use on wet hair (causes sizzling and extreme damage)
- Keep tools away from scalp and skin
- Use heat protectant ALWAYS
- Unplug when not in use
- Allow to cool before storing
Braiding and Updos
Basic Braids
| Braid Type | Technique | Result |
|---|---|---|
| Three-strand | Cross outer strands over middle alternately | Classic plait |
| French braid | Add hair to sections as you braid | Braid that hugs the head |
| Dutch braid | Like French, but cross strands UNDER | Raised, 3D braid |
| Fishtail | Two sections; pull thin strand from outer edge, cross over | Herringbone texture |
| Rope/Twist | Two sections twisted same direction, wrapped opposite | Twisted rope effect |
Updo Techniques
| Element | Purpose | Tools |
|---|---|---|
| Backcombing (Teasing) | Create volume, base for structure | Teasing comb, brush |
| Smoothing | Clean, polished finish | Tail comb, smoothing brush |
| Pinning | Secure style in place | Bobby pins, hairpins |
| Wrapping | Create chignons, buns | Fingers, elastics |
| Twisting | Add texture, detail | Fingers |
Styling Products
| Product | Consistency | Purpose | When to Apply |
|---|---|---|---|
| Mousse | Foam | Volume, definition, hold | Wet hair |
| Gel | Thick liquid | Definition, strong hold | Wet hair |
| Setting lotion | Liquid | Hold for wet sets | Wet hair |
| Leave-in conditioner | Cream/spray | Detangle, protect, moisture | Wet hair |
| Heat protectant | Spray/cream | Shield from heat damage | Before ANY heat styling |
| Pomade | Wax-like | Definition, shine, pliable hold | Wet or dry hair |
| Wax | Solid | Texture, separation, hold | Dry hair |
| Hairspray | Aerosol/pump | Set finished style | Dry, finished hair |
| Serum/Oil | Liquid | Shine, frizz control | Wet or dry hair |
| Texturizing spray | Spray | Grit, volume, beachy texture | Dry hair |
| Dry shampoo | Powder/spray | Absorb oil, add volume | Dry hair |
When blow drying hair, the airflow should be directed:
A pin curl with the circle sitting completely off its base (full-stem) will create:
What is the PRIMARY reason for using a heat protectant before thermal styling?
Which roller placement would you use to achieve MAXIMUM volume and lift?