Key Takeaways

  • Both wet and thermal styling temporarily change hydrogen bonds - styles last until hair gets wet again
  • Direct blow dryer airflow DOWN the hair shaft to smooth the cuticle and reduce frizz
  • Full-stem pin curls = maximum movement; no-stem pin curls = maximum volume
  • ALWAYS use heat protectant before any thermal styling and NEVER use thermal tools on wet hair
  • On-base roller placement creates maximum volume; off-base creates minimum volume with more curl
Last updated: January 2026

Hairstyling and Finishing

Hairstyling transforms hair into the desired shape and direction using wet and thermal techniques. Understanding both methods, along with proper product selection, is essential for NIC exam success and professional styling.

Wet Styling vs. Thermal Styling

AspectWet StylingThermal Styling
Hair StatePerformed on wet hairPerformed on dry hair
Heat SourceAir drying or hood dryerDirect heat tools
Bond Type ChangedHydrogen bondsHydrogen bonds
DurabilityTemporary (until wet)Temporary (until wet)
ExamplesRoller sets, finger waves, pin curlsBlow drying, flat iron, curling iron

Wet Styling Techniques

Finger Waves

Finger waves are sculpted waves created using fingers and comb on wet hair with styling product.

Key Elements:

  • Wave: The curl pattern formed
  • Ridge: The raised area between waves
  • Trough: The depression between waves

Creating Finger Waves:

  1. Apply firm-hold setting gel or lotion to wet hair
  2. Part hair and begin at front hairline
  3. Use comb to direct hair into "C" shape
  4. Place finger on ridge, comb hair in opposite direction
  5. Alternate direction with each wave
  6. Secure with clips if needed
  7. Dry under hood dryer or air dry

Pin Curls

Pin curls are formed by winding hair around fingers and securing at scalp.

Pin Curl Components:

PartDescriptionDetermines
BaseStationary foundation at scalpVolume/lift
StemHair between base and circleDirection/mobility
Circle/CurlThe wound portionCurl pattern

Types of Pin Curl Bases:

Base TypeShapeUse
RectangularRectangleEven curl placement
TriangularTrianglePrevents splits at hairline
Arc/Half-MoonCurvedFollows head curvature
SquareSquareEasy, versatile placement

Pin Curl Patterns:

PatternDirectionResult
ClockwiseCurls go rightCurls turn to the right
Counter-clockwiseCurls go leftCurls turn to the left
No-stemCurl sits on baseMaximum volume, tight curl
Half-stemCurl sits halfway off baseMedium movement, medium volume
Full-stemCurl sits completely off baseMaximum movement, least volume

Roller Setting

Rollers create curl and volume based on size and placement.

Roller PlacementPositionResult
On-BaseRoller sits on its baseMaximum volume and lift
Half-BaseRoller sits halfway off baseMedium volume
Off-BaseRoller sits below baseMinimal volume, more curl
OverdirectedRoller sits in front of baseExaggerated volume

Roller Size and Curl:

  • Small rollers: Tight, defined curls
  • Medium rollers: Moderate curl and wave
  • Large rollers: Loose waves and volume

Thermal Styling Techniques

Blow Drying

Blow drying uses heated air to style and dry hair while creating volume and smoothness.

Essential Blow Drying Tools:

ToolPurposeBest For
Round brushVolume, smoothnessCreating lift and bend
Paddle brushStraighteningSmooth, sleek finishes
Vent brushQuick dryingTextured, casual looks
Concentrator nozzleFocused airflowPrecision styling, smoothness
DiffuserDispersed airflowCurly/wavy hair; preserving texture

Blow Drying Techniques:

TechniqueMethodResult
Round brush methodWrap hair around brush, direct heatVolume, body, curved ends
Paddle brush methodPull hair taut while dryingSmooth, straight finish
DiffusingCup curls in diffuserDefined curls, reduced frizz
Root liftingDirect heat at roots, lift with brushMaximum volume at crown
WrappingWrap hair around head while dryingSmooth, straightened effect

Proper Blow Drying Protocol:

  1. Towel dry to remove excess water
  2. Apply heat protectant product
  3. Section hair for control
  4. Dry roots first (take longest)
  5. Keep dryer 6-10 inches from hair
  6. Direct airflow DOWN the hair shaft (smooths cuticle)
  7. Finish with cool shot to set style

Flat Iron (Straightening)

Flat irons use two heated plates to temporarily straighten hair by breaking and reforming hydrogen bonds.

Temperature Guidelines:

Hair TypeTemperature Range
Fine/Damaged250-300°F (120-150°C)
Medium/Normal300-380°F (150-195°C)
Coarse/Resistant380-450°F (195-230°C)

Flat Iron Technique:

  1. Hair must be COMPLETELY DRY
  2. Apply heat protectant
  3. Section hair (work bottom to top)
  4. Take 1-2 inch sections
  5. Clamp near roots, glide smoothly to ends
  6. One pass is ideal (multiple passes = more damage)
  7. Allow hair to cool before touching

Curling Iron

Curling irons create temporary curls by wrapping hair around a heated barrel.

Barrel Size and Curl Type:

Barrel SizeCurl TypeBest For
3/8" - 1/2"Tight, defined curlsShort hair, ringlets
3/4" - 1"Medium curlsClassic curls, versatile
1 1/4" - 1 1/2"Loose curls/wavesBeachy waves, glamour
2"Large wavesVolume, soft movement

Curling Iron Techniques:

TechniqueMethodResult
Full curlWrap entire section, hold 5-10 secDefined spiral curl
Flat wrapWrap flat around barrelSmooth wave
Half curlCurl only endsCurled ends, straight roots
AlternatingAlternate curl directionNatural, beachy texture

Safety with Thermal Tools:

  • Always test temperature on paper towel first
  • Never use on wet hair (causes sizzling and extreme damage)
  • Keep tools away from scalp and skin
  • Use heat protectant ALWAYS
  • Unplug when not in use
  • Allow to cool before storing

Braiding and Updos

Basic Braids

Braid TypeTechniqueResult
Three-strandCross outer strands over middle alternatelyClassic plait
French braidAdd hair to sections as you braidBraid that hugs the head
Dutch braidLike French, but cross strands UNDERRaised, 3D braid
FishtailTwo sections; pull thin strand from outer edge, cross overHerringbone texture
Rope/TwistTwo sections twisted same direction, wrapped oppositeTwisted rope effect

Updo Techniques

ElementPurposeTools
Backcombing (Teasing)Create volume, base for structureTeasing comb, brush
SmoothingClean, polished finishTail comb, smoothing brush
PinningSecure style in placeBobby pins, hairpins
WrappingCreate chignons, bunsFingers, elastics
TwistingAdd texture, detailFingers

Styling Products

ProductConsistencyPurposeWhen to Apply
MousseFoamVolume, definition, holdWet hair
GelThick liquidDefinition, strong holdWet hair
Setting lotionLiquidHold for wet setsWet hair
Leave-in conditionerCream/sprayDetangle, protect, moistureWet hair
Heat protectantSpray/creamShield from heat damageBefore ANY heat styling
PomadeWax-likeDefinition, shine, pliable holdWet or dry hair
WaxSolidTexture, separation, holdDry hair
HairsprayAerosol/pumpSet finished styleDry, finished hair
Serum/OilLiquidShine, frizz controlWet or dry hair
Texturizing spraySprayGrit, volume, beachy textureDry hair
Dry shampooPowder/sprayAbsorb oil, add volumeDry hair
Test Your Knowledge

When blow drying hair, the airflow should be directed:

A
B
C
D
Test Your Knowledge

A pin curl with the circle sitting completely off its base (full-stem) will create:

A
B
C
D
Test Your Knowledge

What is the PRIMARY reason for using a heat protectant before thermal styling?

A
B
C
D
Test Your Knowledge

Which roller placement would you use to achieve MAXIMUM volume and lift?

A
B
C
D