Key Takeaways
- Hard wax adheres to hair only (best for sensitive areas); soft wax adheres to hair and skin (best for large areas)
- Never apply soft wax to the same area twice to prevent skin damage
- Accutane use requires 12-month wait; Retin-A requires 7-14 day discontinuation before waxing
- Proper wax temperature (120-145°F) should be tested on wrist before application
- Post-wax care includes avoiding heat, exercise, and sun exposure for 24-48 hours
Last updated: January 2026
Hair Removal
Hair removal is a core esthetic service tested on the NIC exam. Understanding different methods, proper techniques, and safety protocols is essential.
Temporary Hair Removal Methods
| Method | Duration | Best Areas | Pros | Cons |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Waxing | 3-6 weeks | All body areas | Effective, long-lasting | Can cause irritation |
| Tweezing | 3-6 weeks | Eyebrows, chin, stray hairs | Precise control | Time-consuming |
| Threading | 3-6 weeks | Eyebrows, facial hair | Gentle, precise | Requires skill |
| Sugaring | 3-6 weeks | All body areas | Less irritating | Technique-dependent |
| Depilatory Creams | 1-2 weeks | Legs, body | Painless | Chemical sensitivity |
| Shaving | 1-3 days | Legs, underarms | Quick, painless | Stubble, ingrowns |
Types of Wax
Hard Wax (Stripless Wax):
| Characteristics | Details |
|---|---|
| Application | Applied in thick layer, hardens on skin |
| Removal | Peeled off by hand without strips |
| Adheres to | Hair only, not skin |
| Temperature | 120-140°F (49-60°C) |
| Best for | Sensitive areas: face, bikini, underarms |
| Hair length | 1/8 to 1/4 inch minimum |
Soft Wax (Strip Wax):
| Characteristics | Details |
|---|---|
| Application | Applied in thin layer |
| Removal | Requires muslin or pellon strips |
| Adheres to | Both hair and skin |
| Temperature | 120-145°F (49-63°C) |
| Best for | Large areas: legs, arms, back |
| Hair length | 1/4 to 1/2 inch minimum |
Hard Wax vs. Soft Wax Comparison
| Factor | Hard Wax | Soft Wax |
|---|---|---|
| Pain level | Less painful | More painful |
| Skin irritation | Lower | Higher |
| Re-application | Can rewax same area | NEVER rewax same area |
| Best for coarse hair | Excellent | Good |
| Best for fine hair | Good | Excellent |
| Speed | Slower | Faster |
| Cost | Higher | Lower |
Waxing Procedure Steps
Pre-Wax Preparation:
- Consult intake form for contraindications
- Cleanse area with pre-wax cleanser
- Apply pre-wax oil (for hard wax) or powder (for soft wax)
- Check wax temperature on inside of wrist
- Ensure proper hair length (1/4 inch ideal)
Hard Wax Application:
- Apply against hair growth in thick layer
- Leave a lip or tab at the end for removal
- Allow wax to cool and harden (10-20 seconds)
- Hold skin taut
- Remove quickly parallel to skin in opposite direction of growth
Soft Wax Application:
- Apply thin layer in direction of hair growth
- Press strip firmly over wax
- Rub strip 2-3 times
- Hold skin taut
- Remove quickly parallel to skin against hair growth
Post-Wax Care:
- Apply post-wax soothing lotion or aloe
- Remove residue with oil-based remover
- Apply antiseptic if needed
- Provide aftercare instructions
Contraindications for Waxing
Absolute Contraindications:
- Use of Accutane (within past 12 months)
- Use of Retin-A, Renova, or retinoids (7-14 days)
- Recent chemical peels or microdermabrasion
- Sunburn
- Active skin infections or diseases
- Open wounds or lesions
- Blood-thinning medications (consult doctor)
Caution Required:
- Diabetes (poor healing)
- Pregnancy (more sensitive)
- Varicose veins (avoid affected areas)
- Moles or skin tags (wax around, not over)
- Recent Botox or fillers (48-72 hours)
Medication Concerns:
| Medication Type | Concern |
|---|---|
| Retinoids (Retin-A) | Thins skin, causes lifting |
| Accutane | Severe skin sensitivity |
| Blood thinners | Increased bruising |
| Antibiotics | Increased photosensitivity |
| Hormone medications | May affect hair growth |
Pre and Post-Care Instructions
Pre-Wax Client Instructions:
- Hair should be 1/4 inch minimum length
- Exfoliate 24-48 hours before appointment
- Avoid sun exposure before waxing
- Do not apply lotions or oils day of service
- Avoid caffeine (increases sensitivity)
- Take pain reliever 30 minutes before if needed
Post-Wax Client Instructions:
- Avoid heat (hot showers, saunas, sun) for 24-48 hours
- No exercise or sweating for 24 hours
- Wear loose, breathable clothing
- Avoid touching waxed area
- No exfoliation for 48 hours
- Begin gentle exfoliation after 3-4 days (prevents ingrowns)
- Apply soothing products as recommended
Common Waxing Areas
Facial Waxing:
- Eyebrows (shaping and cleanup)
- Upper lip
- Chin
- Sideburns
- Full face
Body Waxing:
- Underarms
- Arms (half and full)
- Legs (half and full)
- Bikini (basic, Brazilian, full)
- Back and chest
- Stomach
Eyebrow Waxing Steps
- Consultation: Discuss desired shape
- Cleanse: Remove makeup and oils
- Measure: Use pencil to determine arch placement
- Apply wax: Small sections, following natural shape
- Remove: Quick, controlled movements
- Tweeze: Remove stray hairs
- Soothe: Apply cooling gel or lotion
- Show results: Get client approval
Test Your Knowledge
Which type of wax is recommended for sensitive areas like the bikini and face?
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D
Test Your Knowledge
How long should a client discontinue using Accutane before receiving waxing services?
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B
C
D
Test Your Knowledge
When performing soft wax application, how many times should you apply wax to the same area?
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B
C
D