Key Takeaways

  • Hard wax adheres to hair only (best for sensitive areas); soft wax adheres to hair and skin (best for large areas)
  • Never apply soft wax to the same area twice to prevent skin damage
  • Accutane use requires 12-month wait; Retin-A requires 7-14 day discontinuation before waxing
  • Proper wax temperature (120-145°F) should be tested on wrist before application
  • Post-wax care includes avoiding heat, exercise, and sun exposure for 24-48 hours
Last updated: January 2026

Hair Removal

Hair removal is a core esthetic service tested on the NIC exam. Understanding different methods, proper techniques, and safety protocols is essential.

Temporary Hair Removal Methods

MethodDurationBest AreasProsCons
Waxing3-6 weeksAll body areasEffective, long-lastingCan cause irritation
Tweezing3-6 weeksEyebrows, chin, stray hairsPrecise controlTime-consuming
Threading3-6 weeksEyebrows, facial hairGentle, preciseRequires skill
Sugaring3-6 weeksAll body areasLess irritatingTechnique-dependent
Depilatory Creams1-2 weeksLegs, bodyPainlessChemical sensitivity
Shaving1-3 daysLegs, underarmsQuick, painlessStubble, ingrowns

Types of Wax

Hard Wax (Stripless Wax):

CharacteristicsDetails
ApplicationApplied in thick layer, hardens on skin
RemovalPeeled off by hand without strips
Adheres toHair only, not skin
Temperature120-140°F (49-60°C)
Best forSensitive areas: face, bikini, underarms
Hair length1/8 to 1/4 inch minimum

Soft Wax (Strip Wax):

CharacteristicsDetails
ApplicationApplied in thin layer
RemovalRequires muslin or pellon strips
Adheres toBoth hair and skin
Temperature120-145°F (49-63°C)
Best forLarge areas: legs, arms, back
Hair length1/4 to 1/2 inch minimum

Hard Wax vs. Soft Wax Comparison

FactorHard WaxSoft Wax
Pain levelLess painfulMore painful
Skin irritationLowerHigher
Re-applicationCan rewax same areaNEVER rewax same area
Best for coarse hairExcellentGood
Best for fine hairGoodExcellent
SpeedSlowerFaster
CostHigherLower

Waxing Procedure Steps

Pre-Wax Preparation:

  1. Consult intake form for contraindications
  2. Cleanse area with pre-wax cleanser
  3. Apply pre-wax oil (for hard wax) or powder (for soft wax)
  4. Check wax temperature on inside of wrist
  5. Ensure proper hair length (1/4 inch ideal)

Hard Wax Application:

  1. Apply against hair growth in thick layer
  2. Leave a lip or tab at the end for removal
  3. Allow wax to cool and harden (10-20 seconds)
  4. Hold skin taut
  5. Remove quickly parallel to skin in opposite direction of growth

Soft Wax Application:

  1. Apply thin layer in direction of hair growth
  2. Press strip firmly over wax
  3. Rub strip 2-3 times
  4. Hold skin taut
  5. Remove quickly parallel to skin against hair growth

Post-Wax Care:

  1. Apply post-wax soothing lotion or aloe
  2. Remove residue with oil-based remover
  3. Apply antiseptic if needed
  4. Provide aftercare instructions

Contraindications for Waxing

Absolute Contraindications:

  • Use of Accutane (within past 12 months)
  • Use of Retin-A, Renova, or retinoids (7-14 days)
  • Recent chemical peels or microdermabrasion
  • Sunburn
  • Active skin infections or diseases
  • Open wounds or lesions
  • Blood-thinning medications (consult doctor)

Caution Required:

  • Diabetes (poor healing)
  • Pregnancy (more sensitive)
  • Varicose veins (avoid affected areas)
  • Moles or skin tags (wax around, not over)
  • Recent Botox or fillers (48-72 hours)

Medication Concerns:

Medication TypeConcern
Retinoids (Retin-A)Thins skin, causes lifting
AccutaneSevere skin sensitivity
Blood thinnersIncreased bruising
AntibioticsIncreased photosensitivity
Hormone medicationsMay affect hair growth

Pre and Post-Care Instructions

Pre-Wax Client Instructions:

  • Hair should be 1/4 inch minimum length
  • Exfoliate 24-48 hours before appointment
  • Avoid sun exposure before waxing
  • Do not apply lotions or oils day of service
  • Avoid caffeine (increases sensitivity)
  • Take pain reliever 30 minutes before if needed

Post-Wax Client Instructions:

  • Avoid heat (hot showers, saunas, sun) for 24-48 hours
  • No exercise or sweating for 24 hours
  • Wear loose, breathable clothing
  • Avoid touching waxed area
  • No exfoliation for 48 hours
  • Begin gentle exfoliation after 3-4 days (prevents ingrowns)
  • Apply soothing products as recommended

Common Waxing Areas

Facial Waxing:

  • Eyebrows (shaping and cleanup)
  • Upper lip
  • Chin
  • Sideburns
  • Full face

Body Waxing:

  • Underarms
  • Arms (half and full)
  • Legs (half and full)
  • Bikini (basic, Brazilian, full)
  • Back and chest
  • Stomach

Eyebrow Waxing Steps

  1. Consultation: Discuss desired shape
  2. Cleanse: Remove makeup and oils
  3. Measure: Use pencil to determine arch placement
  4. Apply wax: Small sections, following natural shape
  5. Remove: Quick, controlled movements
  6. Tweeze: Remove stray hairs
  7. Soothe: Apply cooling gel or lotion
  8. Show results: Get client approval
Test Your Knowledge

Which type of wax is recommended for sensitive areas like the bikini and face?

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Test Your Knowledge

How long should a client discontinue using Accutane before receiving waxing services?

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Test Your Knowledge

When performing soft wax application, how many times should you apply wax to the same area?

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