Key Takeaways

  • The basic manicure includes 10 essential steps from sanitization to polish application.
  • Six standard nail shapes are square, round, oval, squoval, almond, and stiletto.
  • Never cut the eponychium (living tissue) - only push it back and remove dead cuticle.
  • Polish application follows a specific three-stroke technique for smooth, even coverage.
  • Hand and arm massage improves circulation and enhances the client experience.
Last updated: January 2026

Manicure Services

The manicure is one of the most fundamental nail services. The NIC Practical Exam includes a Manicure and Polish Application section that must be completed in 20 minutes. Understanding proper procedure, technique, and safety is essential for exam success and professional practice.

Basic Manicure Procedure

The following steps outline the standard basic manicure procedure tested on the NIC exam:

StepProcedurePurpose
1Sanitize hands (yours and client's)Infection control
2Remove old polishPrepare nail surface
3Shape nails with fileCreate desired shape
4Soak fingers in warm waterSoften cuticles
5Dry hands thoroughlyPrepare for cuticle work
6Apply cuticle removerSoften dead cuticle tissue
7Push back eponychium, remove cuticleClean nail plate
8Clean under free edgeRemove debris
9Buff nail surfaceCreate smooth base
10Apply hand lotion and massageMoisturize and relax
11Remove lotion from nailsPrepare for polish
12Apply base coat, polish, top coatFinish service

Nail Filing Techniques

Proper filing technique prevents nail damage and creates beautiful shapes:

Filing Guidelines:

  • File from edge toward center in ONE direction only
  • Never saw back and forth (causes splitting and peeling)
  • File at a 45-degree angle under the free edge
  • Use the coarse side for shaping, fine side for smoothing
  • Check shape by looking at the nail from the client's perspective
  • Fingernails should extend no more than 1/4 inch past the fingertip for most services

Grit Guide for Files:

Grit LevelNumber RangeUse
Coarse80-100 gritAcrylic/gel shortening
Medium150-180 gritNatural nail shaping
Fine240-600 gritSmoothing and finishing
Ultra-fine900+ gritBuffing to shine

Standard Nail Shapes

The NIC exam requires knowledge of six standard nail shapes:

ShapeDescriptionBest ForCharacteristics
SquareStraight across, 90-degree cornersWide nail bedsStrong, modern look
RoundFollows natural curve of fingertipShort nailsNatural, low maintenance
OvalRounded with tapered sidesMost nail typesElegant, elongates fingers
SquovalSquare with rounded cornersMost popularCombines strength and elegance
AlmondTapered sides, rounded tipLong, narrow bedsFeminine, elongating
StilettoDramatic pointLong enhancementsFashion-forward, fragile

Exam Tip: Squoval (square-oval) is the most popular and versatile shape because it combines the durability of square with the softness of oval.


Cuticle Care

Proper cuticle care is essential but must be done carefully to avoid injury:

What You CAN Do:

  • Push back the eponychium gently with an orangewood stick or pusher
  • Apply cuticle remover to soften dead cuticle tissue
  • Remove loose, dead cuticle with a curette or nippers
  • Apply cuticle oil to moisturize

What You CANNOT Do:

  • Cut living tissue (eponychium)
  • Use excessive force when pushing cuticles
  • Cause bleeding or injury
  • Cut hanging tags of skin that are attached to living tissue

Cuticle Work Procedure:

  1. Apply cuticle remover to nail plate and surrounding skin
  2. Allow product to work for 1-2 minutes
  3. Use pusher at 45-degree angle, gently push eponychium
  4. Remove only dead, loose cuticle tissue
  5. Rinse and dry thoroughly
  6. Apply cuticle oil after service
Loading diagram...
Nail Shapes and Durability

Hand and Arm Massage

Hand and arm massage is an important component of the manicure service. It improves circulation, relaxes muscles, and enhances the client experience.

Basic Massage Movements:

MovementDescriptionPurpose
EffleurageLight, gliding strokesRelaxation, spread lotion
PetrissageKneading, lifting movementsStimulate muscles, improve circulation
FrictionCircular pressure movementsWarm tissue, increase blood flow
TapotementLight tapping/percussionStimulate nerves (use sparingly)

Massage Procedure:

  1. Apply warm lotion to hands and forearms
  2. Begin with effleurage from fingertips to elbow
  3. Use petrissage on forearm muscles
  4. Apply friction to joints and palm
  5. Massage each finger individually
  6. Rotate and flex the wrist gently
  7. End with effleurage to soothe

Contraindications for Massage:

  • Open wounds or cuts
  • Inflammation or swelling
  • Skin infections or rashes
  • Broken bones or sprains
  • Varicose veins (avoid that area)
  • Client reports pain or discomfort

Polish Application Techniques

Proper polish application is evaluated on the NIC Practical Exam. The examiner looks for smooth, even coverage with no polish on cuticle or skin.

Polish Application Steps:

StepProductPurpose
1Base CoatPrevents staining, improves adhesion
2Color (2 coats)Provides color coverage
3Top CoatAdds shine, protects color

Three-Stroke Application Method:

  1. First Stroke: Down the center of the nail from base to free edge
  2. Second Stroke: Along one side, base to free edge
  3. Third Stroke: Along the other side, base to free edge

Application Tips:

  • Leave a tiny margin (1/16 inch) between polish and cuticle
  • Keep brush properly loaded - not too wet, not too dry
  • Allow each coat to dry before applying the next
  • Cap the free edge with each coat (run brush across tip)
  • Clean up any mistakes with a brush dipped in remover

NIC Practical Exam Evaluation Criteria:

  • Final appearance of polish is smooth and even
  • Nail plate is entirely covered with polish
  • Cuticle and surrounding skin are free of polish
  • No injury to client

Spa Manicure Variations

Spa manicures include additional luxury treatments:

ServiceAdditional Features
Hot Oil ManicureWarm oil soak instead of water, deep conditioning
Paraffin ManicureParaffin wax treatment for moisture and relaxation
Aromatherapy ManicureEssential oils for therapeutic benefits
Exfoliating ManicureSugar or salt scrub to remove dead skin cells
Collagen ManicureCollagen-infused products for anti-aging
Loading diagram...
Manicure Procedure Flow
Test Your Knowledge

When filing natural nails, you should:

A
B
C
D
Test Your Knowledge

Which nail shape combines the strength of square with the softness of oval and is the most popular choice?

A
B
C
D
Test Your Knowledge

What is the proper order of polish application?

A
B
C
D