Key Takeaways
- The basic manicure includes 10 essential steps from sanitization to polish application.
- Six standard nail shapes are square, round, oval, squoval, almond, and stiletto.
- Never cut the eponychium (living tissue) - only push it back and remove dead cuticle.
- Polish application follows a specific three-stroke technique for smooth, even coverage.
- Hand and arm massage improves circulation and enhances the client experience.
Manicure Services
The manicure is one of the most fundamental nail services. The NIC Practical Exam includes a Manicure and Polish Application section that must be completed in 20 minutes. Understanding proper procedure, technique, and safety is essential for exam success and professional practice.
Basic Manicure Procedure
The following steps outline the standard basic manicure procedure tested on the NIC exam:
| Step | Procedure | Purpose |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Sanitize hands (yours and client's) | Infection control |
| 2 | Remove old polish | Prepare nail surface |
| 3 | Shape nails with file | Create desired shape |
| 4 | Soak fingers in warm water | Soften cuticles |
| 5 | Dry hands thoroughly | Prepare for cuticle work |
| 6 | Apply cuticle remover | Soften dead cuticle tissue |
| 7 | Push back eponychium, remove cuticle | Clean nail plate |
| 8 | Clean under free edge | Remove debris |
| 9 | Buff nail surface | Create smooth base |
| 10 | Apply hand lotion and massage | Moisturize and relax |
| 11 | Remove lotion from nails | Prepare for polish |
| 12 | Apply base coat, polish, top coat | Finish service |
Nail Filing Techniques
Proper filing technique prevents nail damage and creates beautiful shapes:
Filing Guidelines:
- File from edge toward center in ONE direction only
- Never saw back and forth (causes splitting and peeling)
- File at a 45-degree angle under the free edge
- Use the coarse side for shaping, fine side for smoothing
- Check shape by looking at the nail from the client's perspective
- Fingernails should extend no more than 1/4 inch past the fingertip for most services
Grit Guide for Files:
| Grit Level | Number Range | Use |
|---|---|---|
| Coarse | 80-100 grit | Acrylic/gel shortening |
| Medium | 150-180 grit | Natural nail shaping |
| Fine | 240-600 grit | Smoothing and finishing |
| Ultra-fine | 900+ grit | Buffing to shine |
Standard Nail Shapes
The NIC exam requires knowledge of six standard nail shapes:
| Shape | Description | Best For | Characteristics |
|---|---|---|---|
| Square | Straight across, 90-degree corners | Wide nail beds | Strong, modern look |
| Round | Follows natural curve of fingertip | Short nails | Natural, low maintenance |
| Oval | Rounded with tapered sides | Most nail types | Elegant, elongates fingers |
| Squoval | Square with rounded corners | Most popular | Combines strength and elegance |
| Almond | Tapered sides, rounded tip | Long, narrow beds | Feminine, elongating |
| Stiletto | Dramatic point | Long enhancements | Fashion-forward, fragile |
Exam Tip: Squoval (square-oval) is the most popular and versatile shape because it combines the durability of square with the softness of oval.
Cuticle Care
Proper cuticle care is essential but must be done carefully to avoid injury:
What You CAN Do:
- Push back the eponychium gently with an orangewood stick or pusher
- Apply cuticle remover to soften dead cuticle tissue
- Remove loose, dead cuticle with a curette or nippers
- Apply cuticle oil to moisturize
What You CANNOT Do:
- Cut living tissue (eponychium)
- Use excessive force when pushing cuticles
- Cause bleeding or injury
- Cut hanging tags of skin that are attached to living tissue
Cuticle Work Procedure:
- Apply cuticle remover to nail plate and surrounding skin
- Allow product to work for 1-2 minutes
- Use pusher at 45-degree angle, gently push eponychium
- Remove only dead, loose cuticle tissue
- Rinse and dry thoroughly
- Apply cuticle oil after service
Hand and Arm Massage
Hand and arm massage is an important component of the manicure service. It improves circulation, relaxes muscles, and enhances the client experience.
Basic Massage Movements:
| Movement | Description | Purpose |
|---|---|---|
| Effleurage | Light, gliding strokes | Relaxation, spread lotion |
| Petrissage | Kneading, lifting movements | Stimulate muscles, improve circulation |
| Friction | Circular pressure movements | Warm tissue, increase blood flow |
| Tapotement | Light tapping/percussion | Stimulate nerves (use sparingly) |
Massage Procedure:
- Apply warm lotion to hands and forearms
- Begin with effleurage from fingertips to elbow
- Use petrissage on forearm muscles
- Apply friction to joints and palm
- Massage each finger individually
- Rotate and flex the wrist gently
- End with effleurage to soothe
Contraindications for Massage:
- Open wounds or cuts
- Inflammation or swelling
- Skin infections or rashes
- Broken bones or sprains
- Varicose veins (avoid that area)
- Client reports pain or discomfort
Polish Application Techniques
Proper polish application is evaluated on the NIC Practical Exam. The examiner looks for smooth, even coverage with no polish on cuticle or skin.
Polish Application Steps:
| Step | Product | Purpose |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Base Coat | Prevents staining, improves adhesion |
| 2 | Color (2 coats) | Provides color coverage |
| 3 | Top Coat | Adds shine, protects color |
Three-Stroke Application Method:
- First Stroke: Down the center of the nail from base to free edge
- Second Stroke: Along one side, base to free edge
- Third Stroke: Along the other side, base to free edge
Application Tips:
- Leave a tiny margin (1/16 inch) between polish and cuticle
- Keep brush properly loaded - not too wet, not too dry
- Allow each coat to dry before applying the next
- Cap the free edge with each coat (run brush across tip)
- Clean up any mistakes with a brush dipped in remover
NIC Practical Exam Evaluation Criteria:
- Final appearance of polish is smooth and even
- Nail plate is entirely covered with polish
- Cuticle and surrounding skin are free of polish
- No injury to client
Spa Manicure Variations
Spa manicures include additional luxury treatments:
| Service | Additional Features |
|---|---|
| Hot Oil Manicure | Warm oil soak instead of water, deep conditioning |
| Paraffin Manicure | Paraffin wax treatment for moisture and relaxation |
| Aromatherapy Manicure | Essential oils for therapeutic benefits |
| Exfoliating Manicure | Sugar or salt scrub to remove dead skin cells |
| Collagen Manicure | Collagen-infused products for anti-aging |
When filing natural nails, you should:
Which nail shape combines the strength of square with the softness of oval and is the most popular choice?
What is the proper order of polish application?