Key Takeaways
- 0° elevation creates one-length cuts; 90° creates uniform layers; over 90° creates long layers
- The parietal ridge is the widest area of the head where it begins to curve down - a key reference point
- Stationary guides create maximum layering; traveling guides create consistent length throughout
- Texturizing techniques (point cutting, thinning, notching) remove bulk without changing overall length
- Always follow safety guidelines: sanitize tools, maintain proper tension, and use correct body mechanics
Haircutting Fundamentals
Haircutting is one of the most technical skills in cosmetology and comprises a significant portion of the NIC exam. Understanding tools, techniques, head form, and reference points is essential for creating precise, balanced haircuts.
Basic Haircutting Tools
| Tool | Description | Primary Use |
|---|---|---|
| Haircutting Shears | Scissors with one fixed and one movable blade | Primary cutting tool |
| Thinning Shears | Shears with notched blade(s) | Texturizing; removing bulk |
| Razor | Straight or guarded blade | Soft, tapered ends; slide cutting |
| Clippers | Electric tool with detachable guards | Short cuts; fades; outlining |
| Trimmers | Smaller clippers for detail work | Edging; neck; around ears |
| Sectioning Clips | Clips to hold hair | Organizing sections during cut |
| Cutting Comb | Fine-tooth comb with both fine and wide teeth | Sectioning; tension control |
| Wide-Tooth Comb | Larger spaced teeth | Detangling; wet hair |
| Tail Comb | Comb with pointed end | Parting; sectioning |
| Water Bottle | Spray bottle for water | Keeping hair damp during cut |
Shear Anatomy and Handling
Parts of Haircutting Shears:
- Blade: Cutting edge
- Pivot/Screw: Connects blades; adjusts tension
- Finger grip: Ring for ring finger
- Thumb grip: Ring for thumb
- Tang: Finger rest for pinky
- Still blade: Bottom blade (does not move)
- Moving blade: Top blade (controlled by thumb)
Proper Shear Grip:
- Ring finger in finger grip
- Thumb in thumb grip
- Index and middle fingers rest on shank
- Pinky rests on tang for control
- Only the thumb moves during cutting
Head Form and Reference Points
Understanding the head form (the shape of the head) is crucial for creating balanced haircuts:
| Reference Point | Location | Significance |
|---|---|---|
| Apex | Highest point on top of head | Center point for many cuts |
| Parietal Ridge (Crest) | Widest area of head | Head begins to curve downward here |
| Occipital Bone | Prominent bone at back of head | Reference for graduation |
| Nape | Back of neck below occipital | Hairline reference |
| Crown | Area between apex and back of head | Hair changes growth direction |
| Four Corners | Points where top and sides meet | Key for layering |
| Temporal/Temple | Area above ears on sides | Side hairline reference |
| Fringe/Bangs | Hair at front hairline | Face-framing area |
Sectioning and Parting
Sectioning divides hair into manageable working areas. Proper sectioning ensures:
- Control during cutting
- Consistent tension
- Accurate guide lines
- Balanced results
Common Sectioning Patterns:
| Pattern | Description | Used For |
|---|---|---|
| Horizontal | Parallel to floor | Blunt cuts; low elevation |
| Vertical | Perpendicular to floor | Graduated cuts; layers |
| Diagonal | Angled partings | Transitional areas; texture |
| Radial | Sections radiate from apex | Round layers; uniform layers |
| Pivot | Sections pivot from one point | Graduation; asymmetrical cuts |
Subsections: Smaller partings within each section, typically 1/8" to 1/4" thick.
The Cutting Line and Guide
Cutting Line: The angle at which the fingers are positioned when cutting, determining the shape of the haircut.
Guide (Guideline): The first section cut that determines the length for subsequent sections.
| Guide Type | Description | Result |
|---|---|---|
| Stationary (Fixed) | All hair brought to one point | Maximum layering; stacked graduation |
| Traveling (Mobile) | Guide moves with each section | Consistent length throughout; uniform layers |
Elevation (Projection)
Elevation is the angle at which hair is held out from the head relative to the head form. Measured in degrees:
| Elevation | Angle | Result | Haircut Type |
|---|---|---|---|
| Zero (0°) | Hair hangs straight down | Weight line at perimeter; no layers | One-length (blunt) cut |
| Low (1-45°) | Hair elevated below 90° | Weight toward perimeter; slight graduation | Low graduation |
| Medium (45-90°) | Hair at 45° to 90° | Weight in middle of strand; beveled | Graduated; beveled |
| High (90°) | Hair perpendicular to head | Equal lengths; weight distributed evenly | Uniform (same-length) layers |
| Over-elevation (>90°) | Hair elevated past 90° | Shorter interior; longer exterior | Long layers; face-framing |
Over-Direction
Over-direction is combing hair away from its natural fall position to create length increase in specific areas:
| Over-Direction | Hair Movement | Result |
|---|---|---|
| Forward | Directed toward face | Creates length toward back |
| Backward | Directed away from face | Creates length toward front |
| None | Falls naturally | Hair follows head shape |
Basic Cutting Techniques
| Technique | Description | Result | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|
| Blunt (One-Length) | Cut straight across at 0° elevation | Solid weight line; fullness at ends | Classic bobs; long hair |
| Graduated | Cut at angles below 90° elevation | Stacked weight; builds progression | Wedges; A-line bobs |
| Layered (Uniform) | Cut at 90° elevation throughout | Equal lengths; volume all over | Short to medium layers |
| Long Layering | Cut at over 90° elevation | Shorter interior, longer perimeter | Long layered looks |
Texturizing Techniques
Texturizing removes bulk and adds movement without affecting length:
| Technique | Tool | Description | Result |
|---|---|---|---|
| Point Cutting | Shears | Cut into ends at angle | Soft, textured ends |
| Notching | Shears | V-shaped cuts into ends | Chunky texture |
| Slithering/Effilating | Shears | Slide closed shears down strand | Removes bulk; tapered ends |
| Slide Cutting | Shears | Cut while sliding down | Soft, tapered results |
| Thinning | Thinning shears | Multiple notched cuts | Removes bulk throughout |
| Razor Cutting | Razor | Cut with stroking motion | Very soft, wispy ends |
| Carving | Clippers | Remove sections for pattern | Design elements |
| Free-hand Notching | Shears | Random notches into perimeter | Irregular, natural texture |
Safety Guidelines for Haircutting
Tool Safety:
- Sanitize all tools before and after each client
- Keep shears sharp and properly adjusted
- Store tools in closed position when not in use
- Never cut toward yourself or the client's face
- Replace damaged or dull blades immediately
Client Safety:
- Drape properly to protect clothing
- Maintain controlled tension (not too tight)
- Keep hands steady; avoid jerky movements
- Use proper body mechanics (posture, positioning)
- Check for skin conditions before cutting around ears/neckline
Ergonomics:
- Stand with feet shoulder-width apart
- Keep back straight; bend at hips if needed
- Position client at appropriate height
- Avoid over-reaching
- Take breaks to prevent repetitive strain
What elevation angle is used to create a uniform (same-length) layered haircut?
The parietal ridge (crest) is important in haircutting because it:
Which cutting technique would you use to remove bulk from thick hair without affecting the overall length?
When using a traveling (mobile) guide in haircutting, you: