7.1 Client Preparation, Draping, Analysis and Consultation
Key Takeaways
- 19 NYCRR § 160.20(d) requires a paper strip or clean towel completely around the client's neck before any cape is fastened.
- The three draping methods are shampoo draping, dry or haircutting draping, and chemical draping with a waterproof cape and two towels.
- The consultation runs greeting, analysis, discovery, recommendation and documentation, and must be completed before the service begins.
- A contraindication is any condition or chemical incompatibility that makes a service unsafe; the response is to modify or decline, never to diagnose or treat.
- Client record cards must capture formulations, developer volumes, processing times, and patch and strand test results at every visit.
Client Preparation, Draping, Analysis and Consultation
Exam Focus: Draping is graded on the practical examination and quoted on the written examination. Learn the neck-strip-before-cape rule, the three draping types and when each is used, the consultation sequence, and the contraindication table. The governing professional principle is that every decision to proceed, modify or decline is made and communicated before the service starts.
1. Preparing the Client
Client preparation begins the moment the client is seated and has three purposes: protect the client's skin and clothing, protect the practitioner, and prevent cross-contamination between clients.
The universal rule
19 NYCRR § 160.20(d) — a paper strip or clean towel shall be placed completely around the neck of each client before an apron or any other protective device is fastened around the neck. The cape never touches the client's skin. § 160.20(b) adds that a clean sheet of paper or a clean, previously unused towel must be placed on the table or headrest before a client reclines.
The three draping methods
| Draping | Used for | Method |
|---|---|---|
| Shampoo draping | Shampooing, wet services | Neck strip, then a shampoo cape fastened over it, then a towel placed over the cape and secured at the front to catch water running from the hairline |
| Dry or haircutting draping | Cutting, dry styling, thermal work | Neck strip, then the cutting cape fastened over it, positioned so clippings fall clear rather than down the collar |
| Chemical draping | Colour, lightening, permanent waving, relaxing | Neck strip, a towel across the shoulders, a waterproof cape over the towel, then a second towel over the cape, secured. Two towels and a waterproof cape are the standard because the product must never reach the client's skin or clothing |
Additional preparation points that are graded:
- Remove jewellery and eyewear before draping, and ask the client to store them safely.
- Turn the collar under or ask the client to remove outer garments so no fabric sits under the cape.
- Check the drape's tension — snug enough to prevent product running down the neck, loose enough that a finger fits comfortably between strip and neck.
- For chemical services, protect the client's clothing fully and offer a smock. A hydroxide relaxer at pH 11.5–14 destroys fabric on contact.
- Wash your hands with soap and water before touching the client, as § 160.20(e) requires.
2. Hair and Scalp Analysis Before the Service
Chapter 6 sets out the four properties assessed in every analysis. The order matters, because two of them can only be seen before the hair is wetted.
- Growth patterns and wave pattern — assessed on dry, uncombed hair. Wetting and combing conceals whorls, cowlicks and the true curl.
- Texture and density — assessed dry, in several places across the head.
- Porosity and elasticity — the finger-slide and stretch tests from section 6.5.
- Scalp condition — part the hair in several places and look for flaking, redness, abrasion, inflammation, lesions or infestation.
- Chemical history — asked, not assumed. Ask specifically about box colour, henna, keratin or smoothing treatments, and relaxers, because clients frequently do not classify these as chemical services.
3. The Professional Client Consultation Process
The client consultation is the verbal and visual communication exchange conducted before every service to determine client desires, assess hair/scalp condition, identify contraindications, and formulate a technical plan.
The 5-Step Consultation Cycle
- Greeting & Rapport: Welcome the client warmly, ensure they are comfortably seated at a clean station, and review their intake history.
- Assessment & Analysis: Examine the scalp, hair texture, density, porosity, and elasticity. Check for past chemical treatments, allergies, or scalp abrasions.
- Discovery & Expectation Setting: Discuss the client's desired look, daily maintenance routine, lifestyle, and budget. Use visual swatches and lookbooks to confirm expectations.
- Technical Recommendation & Quote: Formulate the service plan, explain the required steps, discuss potential maintenance requirements, and confirm the exact pricing before beginning.
- Documentation & Consent: Record all chemical formulations, developer volumes, processing times, and patch test results on the client record card. Secure signed informed consent when performing major chemical transformations.
4. Contraindications & Professional Service Refusal
A contraindication is any medical condition, physical disorder, or chemical incompatibility that renders a particular cosmetic service unsafe or inadvisable.
Managing Common Contraindications
| Observable Condition | Nature of Contraindication | Professional Action Mandated |
|---|---|---|
| Open Sores / Scalp Abrasions | Infectious vulnerability & severe chemical irritation | Refuse all chemical services (color, bleach, relaxer, perm). Postpone until scalp has completely healed. |
| Pediculosis Capitis (Head Lice) | Parasitic, highly contagious infestation | Immediately refuse service. Discreetly inform client, disinfect station, and recommend medical pediculicide treatment. |
| Tinea Capitis (Ringworm of Scalp) | Contagious fungal infection | Refuse service. Refer client to a dermatologist or primary care physician. |
| Severe Chemical Breakage / Over-Processed Hair | Structural fiber failure | Refuse harsh alkaline services (relaxers, perms, high-lift lighteners). Recommend reconstructive conditioning and restorative cuts. |
| Metallic Salt Dyes (Compound Henna) | Severe chemical reaction (heat, smoke, melting) with peroxide | Conduct a 1:20 test (20-volume peroxide + 28% ammonia). If metallic salts are present, refuse oxidative color or perms. |
5. Documentation
The client record card is the professional's memory and the licensee's evidence. Record at every visit:
- the analysis findings — texture, density, wave and growth pattern, porosity, elasticity, scalp condition;
- the full chemical history including dates;
- the exact formulation, developer volume, product, processing time and result;
- the date and outcome of any predisposition (patch) test, preliminary strand test, test curl or metallic salts test;
- the retail products recommended and the maintenance advice given;
- any condition observed and any referral made — described, never diagnosed, as 19 NYCRR § 160.27(c) requires.
Where a major chemical transformation is planned, take a signed informed consent recording that the process, the likely number of sessions, the maintenance commitment and the risk of compromise to the hair were explained.
What is the proper professional course of action if a stylist discovers active head lice (pediculosis capitis) or open bleeding abrasions during a client's scalp consultation?
What is the correct draping sequence for a chemical service such as a hydroxide relaxer?
Why must growth patterns and wave pattern be assessed before the hair is shampooed?