9.7 Hair Pressing

Hair Pressing

Exam Focus: The three pressing classifications and their curl-reduction percentages are directly examined. Beyond that, know the seasoning procedure, the difference between pressing oil's functions, and the contraindications — because pressing over a scalp abrasion or on chemically relaxed hair is where injury happens.

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1. Hair Pressing (Thermal Straightening) Philosophy & Classifications

Hair pressing is the temporary straightening of extremely curly, kinky, or coily hair using a heated pressing comb. When executed properly, pressing softens the tight curl pattern and prepares the hair for diverse styles without permanent chemical alteration.

The Three Pressing Classifications

┌─────────────────┐    ┌─────────────────┐    ┌─────────────────┐
│   SOFT PRESS    │    │  MEDIUM PRESS   │    │   HARD PRESS    │
│  (50% - 60%)    │    │  (60% - 75%)    │    │     (100%)      │
├─────────────────┤    ├─────────────────┤    ├─────────────────┤
│ • 1 pass each   │    │ • 1 pass each   │    │ • 2 passes each │
│   side of strand│    │   side + more   │    │   side of strand│
│ • Light pressure│    │   firm pressure │    │ • Double Press  │
│ • Removes 50-60%│    │ • Removes 60-75%│    │ • Removes 100%  │
└─────────────────┘    └─────────────────┘    └─────────────────┘

1. Soft Press: Removes 50% to 60% of the curl. Executed by applying the heated pressing comb once on each side of the hair subsection using moderate pressure.
2. Medium Press: Removes 60% to 75% of the curl. Executed by applying the heated pressing comb once on each side of the hair subsection with slightly increased pressure and slower stroke velocity.
3. Hard Press (Double Press): Removes 100% of the curl. Executed by applying the heated pressing comb twice on each side of the hair subsection. A hard press may also include passing a thermal flat iron over the strand following the comb press.

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2. Pressing Comb Construction, Seasoning & Maintenance

Metallurgy & Anatomy

• Construction: Quality pressing combs are manufactured from solid brass or tempered high-grade steel. Brass holds thermal energy exceptionally well and distributes heat evenly along the spine and teeth.
• Comb Parts:
  • Spine (Back): The thick back edge of the comb that holds heat and does the actual smoothing and flattening.
  • Teeth: Guide the hair strands across the heated spine. Wide-spaced teeth are used for coarse hair; fine-spaced teeth provide more tension for smooth textures.
  • Handle: Constructed of wood or heat-resistant polymer to insulate the stylist's hand from extreme heat.

Seasoning a New Pressing Comb

Before a new non-electric or stove-heated pressing comb can be used on clients, it must be seasoned to burn off manufacturing oils and smooth microscopic metal burrs:

1. Heat the comb evenly in the heating stove until hot.
2. Coat the comb completely with pressing oil or petroleum jelly.
3. Allow the comb to cool down completely.
4. Thoroughly wipe away all oil and carbon residue with clean paper towels.

Cleaning & Carbon Removal

Over time, burnt pressing oil and hair products form a dark carbon crust on the teeth and spine. To clean:

• Immerse the metal portion of the comb in a hot water and baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) solution for approximately 1 to 2 hours.
• Remove, rinse thoroughly, and dry completely.
• Polish the teeth and spine with fine steel wool or emery cloth until the brass shine is fully restored.

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3. Pressing Oils, Safety Precautions & Contraindications

Functions of Pressing Oil / Cream

• Prepares and conditions the hair prior to heat contact.
• Prevents scorching, burning, and thermal friction damage.
• Reduces hair smoking during the pressing procedure.
• Adds brilliant luster, sheen, and moisture to finished hair.

Clinical Contraindications & Safety Rules

• Scalp Examination: Never press hair if the client exhibits open scalp abrasions, active infections, pediculosis, or inflamed dermatological conditions.
• Chemically Treated Hair: Avoid pressing hair that has been damaged by chemical lighteners or relaxers. Applying heavy pressing heat over sodium hydroxide relaxers can cause catastrophic breakage.
• Hairline Precautions: Use extra caution when pressing short, fine hairs around the facial hairline, ears, and nape. Always use the short teeth or pressing comb edge with light tension to prevent third-degree epidermal burns.

4. Pressing Is Temporary — and Why That Matters in Consultation

Pressing breaks hydrogen bonds with heat, exactly as blow-drying and thermal curling do. It creates no new substance and alters no disulphide bond. Therefore:

• The press reverts completely on shampooing, in humidity, in rain, and with perspiration.
• A press is not a relaxer, and must never be described to a client as one. Chapter 10 covers the chemical alternatives.
• Repeated hard pressing at high temperature can produce permanent damage — not by changing the hair chemically, but by destroying the cuticle and cortex through cumulative heat. The condition is sometimes described as heat-induced loss of curl pattern, and it is damage, not a service result.

That last point is the honest consultation. A client asking for a hard press every two weeks is asking for a service that will, over time, cost them their curl pattern permanently. The professional response is to explain the trade-off, recommend the lightest press that achieves the look, and use protectant, correct temperature and single passes.

5. Contraindications

6. Safety at the Chair

• Test the comb temperature on a white tissue or on end paper before it touches the hair. Scorching means too hot.
• Never overheat. A pressing comb that has been heated beyond the point where the metal discolours has lost its temper and will not hold heat evenly.
• Shield the scalp. The comb's back does the pressing; the teeth guide. Keep the teeth clear of the scalp and use the other hand to hold the section away from the skin.
• Protect the ears, hairline and nape — the three places clients get burned.
• Use pressing oil sparingly. Too much smokes, and smoking oil at high temperature is unpleasant and a burn risk.
• Rest the comb on a heat-proof stand, never on the trolley or a towel.
• Unplug and cool before cleaning; clean carbon build-up as the maintenance section describes, because carbon deposits transfer to the client's hair.
• Remember 19 NYCRR § 160.12 — open sources of ignition are prohibited, and hot tools and aerosol products belong nowhere near each other.