14.3 Blow-Dry, Thermal Curling, Roller Placement, Perm Panel, Pin Curl Wave and Finger Wave
Key Takeaways
- The blow-dry procedure dries the top from crown to front hairline plus one side using a round bristle brush, with water only and no products.
- Thermal curling requires three barrel curls on base on the top and three spiral curls on the dried side, using an electric marcel iron.
- Roller placement requires three 1⅛-inch rollers on the top starting at the front hairline, rolled away from the face, placed on base, half off base and off base.
- The permanent waving panel on the left side uses five or more full-length rods of a single colour, with protective cream, cotton coil, simulated lotion and a test curl.
- The demonstration procedures are left in place until the examiner instructs a take-down after the finger wave.
Blow-Dry, Thermal Curling, Roller Placement, Perm Panel, Pin Curl Wave and Finger Wave
Exam Focus: These six procedures run back to back with tight transitions, and each one ends with an instruction to clear the surface and set out the next procedure's supplies. Learn the exact counts — three barrel curls, three spiral curls, three rollers, five or more perm rods, three or more ridge curls, three or more C-shaping curls, one wave with two ridges.
1. Blow-Dry Styling Techniques (15 minutes)
Specification: blow-dry out the top, from crown to front hairline, and one side section — any starting point is acceptable — using a round bristle brush of any size.
| Rule | Detail |
|---|---|
| Re-wetting | Permitted, but wet sparingly so the hair can be thoroughly dried in the time. Only water may be used — no products |
| Control | Must show control of the procedure; sectioning clips should be used. Random drying is not acceptable |
| Concentrator | May be used; not required |
| Direction | Dry the top and one side in a uniform manner, under or up |
Steps: set up supplies if not already done and wait to be instructed; prepare the hair, re-wetting only if necessary and removing tangles; thoroughly dry the top and one side uniformly with the round bristle brush; remove implements no longer needed; plug in and turn on the marcel iron and set out thermal supplies.
2. Thermal Curling / Curling Iron Techniques (15 minutes)
Specification: a total of six curls — three barrel curls on base and three spiral curls — using an electric marcel iron. No stoves or spring grips will be allowed.
| Element | Requirement |
|---|---|
| Barrel curls | Three, on base, on the top of the head, made scalp to end with manipulation of the iron, then clipped and left to cool |
| Spiral curls | Three, on the dried side of the head, scalp to end, vertical and not clipped |
| Examiner presence | One of each type demonstrated in the examiner's direct presence |
| Products | None may be used |
Finish: remove implements no longer needed; unplug the marcel iron, wrap it in a towel or cover it and pack it away; set out supplies for roller placement.
3. Demonstration of Techniques — Four Separate Operations
DOS groups the next four procedures together and adds a critical instruction: "You will leave in all procedures performed during this portion of the exam until instructed to take down by your examiner (this will be after the finger wave). You must perform each procedure on the designated section of the head."
Roller Placement — Top of Head (10 minutes)
Three full-size 1⅛-inch diameter rollers — they may be beige — on the top section, starting at the front hairline, all rolled away from the face. Only water — no products.
- Set up supplies if not already done; wait to be instructed.
- Place the first roller on base and secure.
- Place the second roller ½ off base (½ on base) and secure.
- Place the third roller off base and secure.
- Remove implements no longer needed; set out supplies for permanent waving.
Chemical Restructuring: Permanent Waving — Left Side of Head (10 minutes)
| Element | Requirement |
|---|---|
| Draping | Drape the mannequin for chemical procedures first. This draping remains for the duration of the examination |
| Rods | Five or more full-length perm rods — all grey, all white, or all purple — completing the panel on the left side |
| Protection | Protective cream (gel) and cotton coil, applied to the face area of the section or the entire block — either is permissible |
| Lotion | Water from an applicator bottle simulates the waving lotion; applied when prompted |
| Test curl | Performed in the examiner's direct presence |
| Gloves | Must be worn while applying lotion and performing the test curl |
Finish: remove implements no longer needed; set out supplies for the pin curl wave and C-shaping.
Diagonal Pin Curl Wave / C-Shaping — Right Side of Head (10 minutes)
- Set up supplies; wait to be instructed.
- Wet the hair if necessary and subsection.
- First panel: form a diagonal ridge at the front hairline, then three or more overlapping clockwise ridge curls, approximately one inch in diameter, carved out of the ridge from the open end of the shaping.
- Second panel: carve curls from a diagonal c-shaping behind the ridge curls — three or more overlapping counterclockwise carved pin curls.
- Remove implements no longer needed; set out supplies for finger waving.
Product: hair styling gel, finger wave lotion or water may be used.
Finger Waving — Back of Head (10 minutes)
One wave — two ridges — starting at the open end of the molding on the back of the head. The wave may be horizontal, vertical or diagonal. Gel or finger waving lotion is optional; water may be used instead of or in addition to them.
- Set up supplies; wait to be instructed.
- Wet the hair if necessary and comb smooth.
- Form one wave with evenly spaced, defined ridges.
- Remove implements no longer needed; set out supplies for foiling.
4. The Transitions Are Graded Too
Every procedure above ends with the same two-part instruction: remove supplies and implements from the work surface that are no longer needed, and set out supplies for the next procedure. Candidates who treat these as housekeeping rather than as part of the examination lose time on the following procedure and present a cluttered, non-compliant workstation while sanitation is being assessed throughout.
Build the transition into your practice runs. A rehearsed candidate finishes each procedure with the next one's kit already laid out and the previous one's implements bagged or stored.
In the permanent waving procedure, how many perm rods are required and what colour restriction applies?
When are the roller placement, perm panel, pin curl wave and finger wave taken down during the examination?
During the thermal curling procedure, how must the three spiral curls be executed?