9.2 Pin Curling

Pin Curling

Exam Focus: The stem mobility table and the base shape table between them produce most pin curl exam items. On the practical examination, the diagonal pin curl wave requires a diagonal ridge with three or more overlapping clockwise ridge curls carved from the shaping, then a diagonal C-shaping behind them with three or more counterclockwise carved curls.

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1. Pin Curl Anatomy & Stem Mobility Principles

Pin curls serve as the basis for patterns, lines, waves, curls, and rolls. They can be used on all hair textures and hair types.

The Three Anatomical Parts of a Pin Curl

Every pin curl consists of three distinct anatomical zones:

             ┌─────────────────────────────┐
             │        PIN CURL ANATOMY     │
             └─────────────────────────────┘

                 Circle / Curl (Forms wave/curl)
                    ╭─────────╮
                   │   ●   ●   │
                    ╰───┬─────╯
                        │  <── Stem (Controls movement & direction)
                        │
                   ┌────┴────┐
                   │  BASE   │  <── Base (Stationary foundation on scalp)
                   └─────────┘

1. Base (Foundation): The stationary (non-moving) foundation of the curl attached directly to the scalp. It is the area on which the pin curl is placed.
2. Stem: The section of the hair strand between the base and the first turn of the circle. The stem gives the curl its direction and mobility.
3. Circle (Curl): The hair that is wrapped around the finger to form the complete curl. The size of the circle determines the width of the wave and its overall tightness.

Curl Mobility Classifications

The amount of movement (mobility) in a finished section of hair is governed by the length and placement of the stem:

┌─────────────────┐    ┌─────────────────┐    ┌─────────────────┐
│  NO-STEM CURL   │    │ HALF-STEM CURL  │    │ FULL-STEM CURL  │
│   (On-Base)     │    │   (Half-Base)   │    │   (Off-Base)    │
├─────────────────┤    ├─────────────────┤    ├─────────────────┤
│  ╭─────────╮    │    │      ╭─────────╮│    │         ╭──────╮│
│  │  Circle │    │    │      │  Circle ││    │         │Circle││
│  ╰────┬────╯    │    │      ╰───┬─────╯│    │         ╰──┬───╯│
│  ┌────┴────┐    │    │  ┌───────┴──┐   │    │            │Stem│
│  │  Base   │    │    │  │   Base   │   │    │  ┌───────┐ │    │
│  └─────────┘    │    │  └──────────┘   │    │  │ Base  │─┘    │
│                 │    │                 │    │  └───────┘      │
│ Tight, Firm     │    │ Medium Movement │    │ Maximum Freedom │
└─────────────────┘    └─────────────────┘    └─────────────────┘

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2. Pin Curl Base Geometry & Shaping

Shaping Definition

A shaping is a section of hair molded in a circular movement in preparation for the formation of curls. Shapings are classified as open-end or closed-end:

• Open-End Shaping: Hair is molded in a forward or outward motion where the curl begins at the open end.
• Closed-End Shaping: Hair is directed away from the face toward the crown.

The Four Primary Pin Curl Bases

To prevent visible splits or breaks in the finished hairstyle, bases must be selected according to their head location and design purpose:

┌─────────────────┐  ┌─────────────────┐  ┌─────────────────┐  ┌─────────────────┐
│   RECTANGULAR   │  │   TRIANGULAR    │  │  ARC / C-SHAPE  │  │     SQUARE      │
│      BASE       │  │      BASE       │  │   (HALF-MOON)   │  │      BASE       │
├─────────────────┤  ├─────────────────┤  ├─────────────────┤  ├─────────────────┤
│  ┌───────────┐  │  │       /\        │  │     ╭─────╮     │  │   ┌─────────┐   │
│  │           │  │  │      /  \       │  │    (       )    │  │   │         │   │
│  └───────────┘  │  │     /____\      │  │     ╰─────╯     │  │   └─────────┘   │
│                 │  │                 │  │                 │  │                 │
│ Side front hair-│  │ Along front     │  │ Carved from arc │  │ Suitable for    │
│ line for smooth │  │ hairline to     │  │ shapings; nape  │  │ uniform curls   │
│ upsweep styling │  │ prevent splits  │  │ and hairline    │  │ throughout head │
└─────────────────┘  └─────────────────┘  └─────────────────┘  └─────────────────┘

1. Rectangular Base: Formed with parallel horizontal and vertical lines. Recommended at the side front hairline for a smooth, upswept effect. Sections must overlap slightly to avoid parting lines.
2. Triangular Base: Recommended along the front facial hairline or fringe area. Triangular bases allow the hair to overlap without creating visible parts, effectively preventing splits in the finished combed-out style.
3. Arc Base (Half-Moon / C-Shaped Base): Carved out of a circular shaping. Arc bases give good direction and are used at the hairline, temple, and nape of the neck.
4. Square Base: Formed with equal length and width partings. Suitable for curly hairstyles without much volume or lift. Square bases are used throughout the entire head when bricklay or staggered placement is applied to prevent splits.

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3. Specialized Pin Curl Techniques

• Cascade Curls (Stand-Up Curls): Curls fastened in a standing, perpendicular position on a rectangular base. Stand-up pin curls are used to create height, volume, and root lift in hair design, functioning identically to small rollers.
• Ridge Curls: Pin curls placed immediately behind or below a finger wave ridge. They are used to accentuate and deepen the wave line without flattening the crest.
• Skip Waves: Two alternating rows of ridge curls combined with finger waves (one row of finger waves followed by a row of ridge curls). Skip waves create strong, deep, undulating wave patterns with high structural contrast.
• Carved Curls (Sculptured Curls): Pin curls sliced directly out of an arc shaping without lifting the hair from the scalp. Carved curls produce smooth, close-to-the-head wave movements.

4. Pin Curls on the New York Practical Examination

The examination allots ten minutes for the diagonal pin curl wave and C-shaping on the right side of the head, and specifies the construction precisely:

1. On the first panel, form a diagonal ridge at the front hairline.
2. Carve three or more overlapping clockwise ridge curls, approximately one inch in diameter, out of the ridge from the open end of the shaping.
3. On the second panel, behind the ridge curls, form a diagonal C-shaping.
4. Carve three or more overlapping counterclockwise pin curls from that C-shaping.
5. Hair styling gel, finger wave lotion or water may be used.

Two details decide marks here. First, the curls are carved out of the shaping, not sub-sectioned and wound separately — the comb carves each curl from the continuous mould so the ridge line stays unbroken. Second, the directions alternate: clockwise ridge curls in front, counterclockwise carved curls behind. Reversing them breaks the wave.

Chapter 14 sets out the full sequence, including that these procedures are left in until the examiner instructs the candidate to take them down after the finger wave.

5. Securing and Drying

• Clip without denting. A clip that crosses the circle of the curl leaves a mark that survives the brush-out. Secure from the open end, with the clip lying flat against the base.
• Dry completely. Pin curls, like every wet set, hold only if the hydrogen bonds re-form fully. Removing clips while the hair is even slightly damp loses the shape.
• Let the hair cool before removing clips. Cooling is when the bonds settle.
• Remove clips systematically, in the reverse order they were placed, then brush out from the ends upward.