5.1 Matter, Elements, Compounds, Mixtures and Chemical Reactions
Key Takeaways
- Matter exists in three states — solid, liquid and gas — and everything that occupies space and has mass is matter.
- An element is made of one kind of atom; a compound is two or more elements chemically united in fixed proportion; a mixture is physically combined and separable.
- Organic chemistry studies carbon-containing substances; inorganic chemistry covers substances without carbon, including water, metals and pure minerals.
- A physical change alters form without creating a new substance; a chemical change produces a new substance with new properties.
- Wet setting and thermal styling are physical changes; permanent waving, relaxing and oxidative colouring are chemical changes.
Matter, Elements, Compounds, Mixtures and Chemical Reactions
Exam Focus: Two distinctions drive nearly every chemistry item on the New York exam: organic versus inorganic, and physical versus chemical change. Learn which salon services fall on each side of the physical/chemical line, because that classification predicts whether a result washes out or is permanent until it grows out.
1. Fundamentals of Chemistry: Organic vs. Inorganic Chemistry & Matter
Chemistry is the branch of physical science that studies the composition, structure, properties, and reactions of matter, as well as the changes that matter undergoes under various conditions.
CHEMISTRY
┌────────────────┴────────────────┐
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ORGANIC CHEMISTRY INORGANIC CHEMISTRY
• Studies carbon-containing matter • Studies matter lacking carbon
• Living or once-living substances • Never alive; minerals, metals
• Will burn / flammable • Will NOT burn / non-flammable
• Examples: Hair color, shampoos, • Examples: Pure water, hydrogen
synthetic resins, relaxers peroxide, iron, pure oxygen
Organic vs. Inorganic Chemistry
- Organic Chemistry: The study of all substances containing the element carbon ($C$). All living things—or substances that were once alive (plants, animals, fossil fuels)—are organic. Organic matter contains carbon-hydrogen bonds and will ignite and burn. In cosmetology, almost all working chemical formulations (permanent hair colors, relaxers, shampoos, conditioners, synthetic nail acrylics, styling polymers) are organic compounds.
- Inorganic Chemistry: The study of all chemical compounds that do not contain carbon. Inorganic substances were never alive, do not contain carbon-hydrogen bonds, and will not burn. Examples in cosmetology include pure distilled water ($H_2O$), hydrogen peroxide ($H_2O_2$), titanium dioxide ($TiO_2$), sodium chloride ($NaCl$), and metal shears.
States of Matter & Molecular Structure
Matter is defined as anything that occupies physical space and has mass (weight). Matter exists in three distinct physical states:
- Solid: Possesses a definite shape and a definite volume (e.g., ice, manicuring implements, hair clips). Molecular particles are tightly bound in fixed, rigid positions.
- Liquid: Possesses a definite volume but takes the shape of its container (e.g., shampoos, developers, liquid disinfectants). Molecular particles move freely while remaining in close contact.
- Gas: Possesses neither a definite shape nor a definite volume; expands indefinitely to fill any container (e.g., propellant gases, ammonia vapor, oxygen). Molecular particles are widely separated and move rapidly.
- Element: The simplest form of chemical matter that cannot be broken down into simpler substances without losing its identity (e.g., Carbon, Hydrogen, Oxygen, Nitrogen, Sulfur—the "COHNS" elements forming human hair).
- Atom: The smallest structural unit of an element that retains all chemical properties of that element.
- Molecules: Formed by chemically combining two or more atoms:
- Elemental Molecules: Contain two or more atoms of the same element united chemically (e.g., Atmospheric Oxygen: $O_2$, Ozone: $O_3$).
- Compound Molecules: Contain two or more atoms of different elements united chemically in fixed proportions (e.g., Water: $H_2O$, Hydrogen Peroxide: $H_2O_2$, Table Salt: $NaCl$).
Physical Changes vs. Chemical Changes
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│ PHYSICAL CHANGE │ CHEMICAL CHANGE │
├────────────────────────────────────────┼────────────────────────────────────────┤
│ • Change in physical form or state │ • Change in the chemical composition │
│ without altering chemical identity │ and molecular structure of a substance│
│ • No new chemical bonds formed │ • Creates new chemical substances │
│ • Examples: │ • Examples: │
│ - Ice melting into liquid water │ - Disulfide bonds broken by perm │
│ - Water boiling into steam │ - Disulfide bonds reformed by neutral│
│ - Temporary color coating hair │ - Hair color oxidizing with peroxide │
│ - Physical wet setting of hair │ - Iron rusting into iron oxide │
└────────────────────────────────────────┴────────────────────────────────────────┘
- Physical Mixtures: A physical combination of two or more substances united physically in any proportion without fixed chemical ratios and without forming new chemical bonds (e.g., salt dissolved in water, air, styling glaze).
- Chemical Compounds: Substances formed by chemical union of two or more elements in definite, fixed proportions that exhibit entirely different chemical and physical properties than their constituent elements.
2. Classifying Salon Services by Type of Change
The physical/chemical distinction is the most useful single idea in cosmetology chemistry, because it tells you in advance whether a result is temporary.
| Service | Type of change | Why | Duration |
|---|---|---|---|
| Wet set, finger wave, pin curl, roller set | Physical — hydrogen bonds broken by water and re-formed on drying | No new substance | Until the hair is wetted or exposed to humidity |
| Blow-dry, thermal curling, flat ironing | Physical — hydrogen bonds broken by heat | No new substance | Until shampooed or exposed to moisture |
| Hair pressing | Physical | Temporary straightening; no bonds permanently altered | Until shampooed |
| Temporary and semi-permanent colour | Physical — deposit only, no oxidation | Colour molecules coat or lightly enter the cuticle | Until shampooed out over several washes |
| Demi-permanent colour | Chemical — low-volume oxidation, deposit only | Small oxidative reaction | Fades over 24–28 shampoos |
| Permanent colour and lightening | Chemical — oxidation | New coloured polymers formed; melanin diffused | Permanent until it grows out |
| Permanent waving | Chemical — reduction, then oxidation | Disulphide bonds broken and re-formed | Permanent |
| Hydroxide relaxing | Chemical — lanthionization | Disulphide bonds permanently converted to lanthionine | Permanent and irreversible |
The professional inference matters more than the vocabulary. A physical change can be undone by shampooing; a chemical change cannot be undone at all. That is why a strand test precedes chemical services and never precedes a set.
3. Properties and Salon Chemicals
Physical properties are observed without changing the substance's identity: colour, odour, density, melting point, solubility. Chemical properties describe how a substance reacts — flammability, its reaction with oxygen, its behaviour with acids or bases.
| Substance | Element / compound / mixture | Salon role |
|---|---|---|
| Oxygen (O₂), hydrogen (H₂), nitrogen (N₂) | Elements | Constituents of hair keratin |
| Water (H₂O) | Compound — inorganic | Universal solvent; the basis of pH |
| Hydrogen peroxide (H₂O₂) | Compound | Oxidising agent in developers and neutralisers |
| Ammonium thioglycolate | Compound — organic | Reducing agent in alkaline permanent waves |
| Sodium hydroxide (NaOH) | Compound — inorganic | Active in lye relaxers |
| Air | Mixture | Roughly 78% nitrogen, 21% oxygen |
| Shampoo, conditioner, colour formulation | Mixtures | Physically combined ingredients, separable |
Note the classification that trips candidates: hydrogen peroxide is a compound, not a mixture, but the developer bottle on your shelf is a mixture of hydrogen peroxide, stabilisers, thickeners and a buffering acid.
4. Organic and Inorganic in Practice
Organic chemistry is the chemistry of carbon-containing substances. Almost everything that burns is organic, and almost everything that comes from a living source is organic. Salon examples: thioglycolic acid, aniline derivative dyes, cetyl alcohol, silicones' organic portions, ethyl methacrylate monomer, acetone.
Inorganic chemistry covers substances that contain no carbon: water, metals, pure minerals, ammonia, hydrogen peroxide, sodium hydroxide.
Two exam-relevant consequences:
- Organic solvents are usually flammable. Acetone, alcohols and monomers are why 19 NYCRR § 160.25(b) requires flammable and combustible chemicals to be stored in a metal cabinet remote from ignition sources, and why § 160.12 bans candles, gas burners and cigarettes.
- "Organic" on a product label is a marketing term, not a chemistry term. A product advertised as organic is not thereby gentler, safer or free of allergens. The predisposition test in Chapter 11 is required regardless of how a colour product is marketed.
A client's roller set collapses after she walks home in the rain. What kind of change was the set, and why did it collapse?
Which of the following salon substances is correctly classified?