8.6 Eyelashes: Artificial Lashes and Eyelash Extensions

Why this section matters

General theory topic 09.D eyelashes lists artificial eyelashes and eyelash extensions. Minnesota also licenses eyelash technicians (14 training hours), and lash extensions are in the scope of cosmetologists, estheticians and advanced practice estheticians (Minn. R. 2105.0105, subp. 4). Expect questions on application technique, adhesive safety, contraindications and Minnesota's lash rules.

Natural lash anatomy and growth

Eyelashes protect the eyes from debris. Each lash grows through the same phases as scalp hair (anagen, catagen and telogen), but the cycle is much shorter, so lashes shed and replace themselves continuously over several months. Extensions fall out when the natural lash sheds, which is why fills are needed about every two to three weeks.

Artificial eyelashes

Strip lash application: measure the band against the eye and trim it from the outer end; apply a thin line of adhesive to the band, let it become tacky, and set it as close to the natural lash line as possible, from the center outward. Never apply lash adhesive to the eyelid skin or into the eye.

Semi-permanent eyelash extensions

Materials

• Extensions: synthetic (polyester, PBT) fibers, silk-type synthetics or natural fibers, in different lengths, thicknesses and curls.
• Adhesive: usually a cyanoacrylate-based adhesive designed for lashes. It releases fumes as it cures, can irritate the eyes, and can cause allergic reactions. Store it as the manufacturer directs.
• Tools: straight and curved isolation tweezers, eye pads or tape to cover lower lashes, a lash pallet, primer and remover.

Procedure

1. Consultation: check for allergies (especially to adhesives or cyanoacrylate), eye conditions, recent eye surgery, contact lenses and sensitivity. Offer a patch test if the adhesive manufacturer recommends one (Minn. R. 2105.0375, subp. 7, item F).
2. Prepare: wash hands and put on gloves when the manufacturer directs, position the client lying down, cleanse the lashes and eye area of oil and makeup, and secure the lower lashes with gel pads or medical tape kept away from the eye.
3. Isolate one natural lash with tweezers.
4. Dip the base of the extension into a small adhesive drop and place it on the isolated lash about 1 millimeter from the eyelid, never touching the skin.
5. One extension per natural lash. Gluing lashes together causes pain, damage and early loss.
6. Choose length and thickness the natural lash can support; overly heavy extensions strain the follicle and can cause traction alopecia of the lashes.
7. Finish by checking for stuck lashes, removing pads gently, and giving aftercare: avoid water and steam for the period the manufacturer directs, avoid oil-based products near the eyes, and do not rub or pull the lashes.

Fills and maintenance

At a fill appointment, the technician removes grown-out or twisted extensions with remover and applies new extensions to new natural lashes. Advise clients to brush the lashes gently with a clean spoolie, avoid oil-based cleansers and waterproof mascara, avoid sleeping face-down, and never pick or pull at extensions. Clients who notice redness, swelling, itching or watery eyes after a service should stop using eye products and see a physician; the technician should record the reaction and not reapply the same adhesive.

Removal

Apply an adhesive remover made for lash extensions to dissolve the bond, then slide the extensions off with a clean applicator. Never pull extensions off, which removes the natural lashes.

Contraindications

• Eye infections such as conjunctivitis or a stye, or eye irritation
• Allergy to lash adhesive or cyanoacrylate
• Recent eye surgery, or eye conditions the client's physician has restricted
• Trichotillomania or very weak, sparse natural lashes
• Open sores in the eye area, where Minnesota prohibits services (Minn. R. 2105.0375, subp. 7, item G)

Scope and Minnesota rules

• Scope: Minn. Stat. 155A.23, subd. 4a defines eyelash extensions as applying, removing and trimming natural or synthetic fibers attached to an eyelash, including cleansing the eye area and lashes, and excludes color agents, straightening agents, perm solutions, bleaching agents, eyebrow applications and any other cosmetology service. Lash lifting and lash tinting are therefore outside an eyelash technician's license but within esthetics and cosmetology.
• Tools and supplies (Minn. R. 2105.0375, subp. 16): lash stands, holders, pallets, trays and glue pallets are cleaned and disinfected before each client. Extensions are stored in a clean, closed container or the original packaging; lashes removed from the container for a client and not used are discarded. Portion lashes with disinfected scissors, a blade or tweezers.
• Tweezers are cleaned and disinfected after each use, and eye pads, tape, microbrushes and wands are single-use.
• Eyelash extensions cannot be applied or removed under the former special event permit (Section 1.5).