7.5 Hair Color Application Procedures, Mixing and Mineral Precautions

Why this section matters

Hair coloring is 12% of general theory and 13% of the written practical. The written practical lists color theory and mixing, draping, hair and scalp preparation, sectioning, application and processing, strand test and patch test. Sections 7.1 to 7.4 cover theory, products, lightening and corrective color; this section is the hands-on procedure.

Preparation

1. Consultation and analysis. Determine natural level, percentage of gray, porosity, texture, density, elasticity, previous color and the target result. Check the scalp for abrasions, irritation or disease.
2. Patch test. For aniline derivative color, offer and perform the skin test 24 to 48 hours ahead when the manufacturer recommends it (Minn. R. 2105.0375, subp. 7, item F).
3. Release or record. Write the formula and plan on the client record.
4. Draping. Towel, chemical cape, towel (Section 10.1); wear gloves.
5. Hair and scalp preparation. Hair is usually colored dry and unshampooed for permanent color unless the manufacturer directs otherwise. Do not brush or massage the scalp before color. Apply protective cream along the hairline and ears if needed.
6. Strand test. Apply the mixed formula to a 1/2-inch strand in a less visible area, process for the recommended time, and check the color result, timing and hair condition. Adjust the formula before the full application.

Mixing

Measure color and developer exactly with a scale or graduated measuring tools, mix immediately before use, and discard leftover mixed color, which keeps oxidizing and cannot be stored. Use glass or plastic, never metal, bowls and tools.

Sectioning

Divide the hair into four quadrants: a part from the center of the forehead to the nape, and a part from ear to ear over the crown. Apply in 1/4-inch subsections so every strand is saturated.

Application procedures

Virgin application: going lighter (single process)

1. Begin in the most resistant area, often the back or wherever gray is concentrated.
2. Apply color to the midshaft first, starting about 1/2 inch from the scalp and working out to, but not through, porous ends.
3. Process as directed, checking with strand tests.
4. Apply color to the scalp area last, then work it through the ends for the final minutes.

Body heat at the scalp speeds processing, and porous ends grab color, so this order gives even results.

Virgin application: going darker or the same level

Apply from scalp to ends in one application, unless the ends are very porous; porous ends may need a filler or a shorter time to avoid going too dark.

Retouch application

1. Apply color to the new growth only, up to (not over) the line of demarcation.
2. Process for the full time.
3. If the midshaft and ends have faded, refresh them for the last few minutes with a demi-permanent or diluted formula, as the manufacturer directs. Overlapping full-strength permanent color onto previously colored hair builds up color and damages the hair.

Semi-permanent and demi-permanent color

Usually applied to clean, towel-dried hair from scalp to ends, processed for the labeled time, then rinsed. Demi-permanent color is mixed with a low-volume developer.

Processing and removal

• Time processing from when application is complete, following the manufacturer.
• Check the color with a strand test before rinsing.
• To remove, add a little warm water and emulsify at the hairline to lift color from the skin, rinse until the water runs clear, shampoo with a mild or color-safe shampoo, and condition with an acidic conditioner.
• Remove stains from the skin with a stain remover. Clean the bowl, brush and bottle, and disinfect tools.
• Record the formula, timing and results.

Precautions with minerals and metals

Pure henna (from the Lawsonia plant) is an FDA-approved hair color additive, but "compound henna" mixed with metallic salts is not compatible with oxidative color.