5.6 Blow-Dry Styling, Combs and Brushes, Dry Styling and Heat Precautions
Key Takeaways
Blow-drying directs airflow from the scalp toward the ends so the cuticle lies flat; a concentrator nozzle focuses air and a diffuser spreads it gently for curly hair.
Round brushes add curl and volume, paddle and cushion brushes smooth and detangle, and vent brushes speed drying and add lift.
Wide-tooth combs detangle wet hair from the ends up, while fine-tooth and tail combs make precise partings and smooth surfaces.
Dry styling includes backcombing (teasing), backbrushing, braiding and updos, which build volume or shape without water or heat.
Use a heat protectant, start with the lowest effective setting, keep tools moving and away from the scalp, and never apply hot irons to wet hair.
Why this section matters
Hairstyling is 7% of general theory and 10% of the written practical. Section 5.3 covers wet setting, pin curls, rollers and thermal pressing. This section covers the remaining outline topics: blow-dry styling (05.A.1), dry styling (05.A.3), combs and brushes (05.B), temperature precautions (05.C) and written practical 03.A blow-dry styling and 03.D use of tools and implements.
The blow dryer
| Part | Purpose |
|---|---|
| Heat and speed settings | Control drying speed and heat; high speed for rough-drying, lower speed for styling |
| Cool shot button | Cool air sets the shape after heat |
| Air intake and filter | Must be kept clean; a clogged intake makes the dryer overheat |
| Concentrator nozzle | Narrows and directs airflow for smoothing with a brush |
| Diffuser | Spreads airflow over a wide area so curls dry without frizz |
Blow-dry procedure
- Apply a heat protectant and styling product to towel-dried hair and comb through with a wide-tooth comb.
- Rough-dry to remove excess moisture, directing air down the hair shaft.
- Section the hair (for example, nape, sides, crown and top).
- Work section by section from the nape up: place the brush under the subsection at the base, then follow the brush with the nozzle from scalp to ends, keeping the air moving and the nozzle pointed down the shaft.
- Lift at the base for volume (hold the section up from the head); keep it close to the head for a sleek finish.
- Finish each section with the cool shot to set it, then style.
Directing air from scalp to ends keeps the cuticle flat for shine; blowing up the shaft roughens the cuticle and causes frizz. Holding the dryer too close or in one spot can burn the scalp and damage the hair.
Brushes
| Brush | Use |
|---|---|
| Round brush (small to large barrel) | Curl, bend and volume; smaller barrels make tighter curls |
| Paddle brush | Smoothing and straightening long hair, large surfaces |
| Cushion (classic styling) brush | Detangling and smoothing; good for finishing |
| Vent brush | Openings let air pass for fast drying and lift at the base |
| Teasing (backcombing) brush | Narrow rows of bristles for backbrushing and smoothing the surface |
| Boar-bristle brush | Distributes natural oil, adds shine and smooths |
Combs
| Comb | Use |
|---|---|
| Wide-tooth comb | Detangling wet hair and conditioners; start at the ends and work up |
| Fine-tooth (styling) comb | Smoothing, precise control |
| Tail comb | Sectioning, subsectioning and parting |
| Teasing comb | Backcombing |
Combs and brushes must be cleaned and fully immersed in disinfectant between clients (Minn. R. 2105.0375, subps. 4 and 10), and tools must never be carried in pockets or aprons (subp. 7, item L).
Dry styling techniques
- Backcombing (teasing, ratting): comb short sections from the ends toward the scalp to build a cushion at the base for volume and support.
- Backbrushing: similar, with a brush, producing a softer cushion.
- Braiding: three-strand, French (inverted), Dutch (visible, the reverse of French), fishtail and rope braids. Avoid excessive tension, which can cause traction alopecia.
- Updos (hair up): chignons, twists and ponytail-based styles secured with pins; use backcombing as a foundation and smooth the surface.
- Dry styling with irons: flat irons and curling irons are used on dry hair only (Section 5.3).
Braiding basics
- Three-strand braid: divide a section into three equal strands and cross the right strand over the center, then the left strand over the new center, repeating to the end.
- French (inverted) braid: start with three small strands at the hairline and add a small amount of hair to each outside strand as it crosses over the center, working down the head.
- Dutch (visible) braid: the reverse of a French braid: strands cross under the center, so the braid sits on top of the hair.
- Fishtail braid: two strands, with a small piece from the outside of one crossed to the other.
- Keep partings clean and tension even and moderate, and secure the end with a coated band.
Updo procedure
- Consult on the occasion, outfit and desired shape; plan where the volume and focal point will be.
- Start with clean, dry hair; prep with a texturizing or holding product and curl or smooth as the style needs.
- Section the hair and create a foundation, such as a ponytail, a backcombed cushion or a pin base.
- Shape and secure each section with bobby pins and hairpins, crossing pins for hold and hiding them under the hair.
- Smooth the surface with a teasing brush, finish with spray, and check the shape from every side.
Temperature precautions
- Apply a heat protectant before heat styling.
- Start low: fine, lightened, chemically treated or gray hair scorches at lower heat than coarse virgin hair.
- Never use flat irons or curling irons on wet hair; trapped water turns to steam and damages the hair.
- Keep irons and dryer nozzles moving and away from the scalp; place a comb between a hot iron and the scalp.
- Test non-adjustable irons and pressing combs on a white tissue or end paper before use.
- Synthetic hair and many wigs melt under normal styling heat unless labeled heat-resistant.
- Keep cords off wet floors, unplug tools when not in use, and store them safely after cleaning and disinfecting (Minn. R. 2105.0375, subp. 11).
In which direction should the air from a blow dryer be directed to give a smooth, shiny finish?
In circles around the head
From the ends toward the scalp
From the scalp toward the ends
Straight at the scalp
Which dryer attachment is best for drying curly hair without disturbing the curl pattern?
No attachment on high speed
Diffuser
Concentrator nozzle
Comb attachment
Why should a flat iron never be used on wet hair?
It voids the iron's warranty
Wet hair conducts electricity to the client
The iron will not heat properly
Water in the hair turns to steam and damages it
Sections you finish are checked off in the contents.