5.4 Haircut Procedures: Blunt, Graduated and Layered Cuts

Why this section matters

The general theory outline lists the types of haircuts (blunt, graduated, layered), guidelines and sectioning; the written practical lists draping, sectioning, guidelines, cutting angles and tool use. Procedure-order and "which cut produces this result" questions are common.

Before the cut

1. Consultation. Discuss lifestyle, styling time, desired length and shape, and look at photos together. Analyze face shape (Section 5.1), head shape, hairline, growth patterns (cowlicks, whorls), density, texture, wave pattern and elasticity.
2. Draping. Neck strip, then cutting cape, with the neck strip folded over the cape so the cape does not touch the skin (Section 10.1). Use a towel and waterproof cape if the hair will be shampooed first.
3. Shampoo or wet the hair as the cut requires. Most precision cuts are done on damp hair; some textured or curly cuts are done dry.
4. Section. A common pattern is four or five sections using the apex, parietal ridge and occipital bone as landmarks. Clip sections neatly; clean, consistent partings make clean guidelines.

Key terms

• Guideline (guide): the section that sets the length for the cut. A stationary guide stays in place and all hair is brought to it; a traveling guide moves through the cut, each new subsection including a little hair from the previous one.
• Elevation (projection): the angle at which hair is held from the head while cutting.
• Overdirection: combing hair away from its natural fall position toward a guide to create length increases.
• Cutting line: the angle of the fingers and shears in relation to the floor or partings (horizontal, vertical, diagonal).
• Tension: the amount of pressure on the hair while combing and holding; use minimal tension on curly hair, around the ears and on the hairline.
• Weight line: the visual line at the heaviest perimeter area.

The four basic haircuts

Blunt (one-length) cut

1. Part the hair into sections and take a horizontal or slightly diagonal parting at the nape.
2. Comb the first subsection straight down with minimal tension and cut the perimeter guideline at 0 degrees, holding the hair against the skin or between the fingers without lifting.
3. Release the next subsection, comb it down to the guideline and cut to the same length. Continue up the back, then the sides, matching each side to the back.
4. Check that both sides are even in the mirror and from behind. Watch for the ears: let the hair fall over them naturally and do not push it, or the line will jump.

Graduated cut

1. Establish the perimeter guide at the nape.
2. Take subsections parallel to the desired line and elevate each one, usually 45 degrees, cutting to the guide. Weight builds where the ends stack.
3. Higher elevation or a steeper cutting line raises the weight line; lower elevation keeps it close to the perimeter.
4. Cross-check with partings opposite to those used to cut.

Uniform layered cut

1. Cut an interior guide at the top (for example, from the front hairline to the crown) to the chosen length.
2. Take subsections perpendicular to the curve of the head and hold each at 90 degrees from the head, cutting parallel to the curve.
3. Use a traveling guide around the head so every section matches the one before.
4. Blend the interior guide into the perimeter and cross-check.

Long-layered cut

1. Establish a guide at the top of the head.
2. Bring hair from each area straight up to 180 degrees to the stationary guide and cut.
3. Hair farther from the top travels farther, so the perimeter stays long while the top is shorter.
4. Finish the perimeter shape separately if needed.

Cutting curly and textured hair

Curly hair can shrink by a large fraction of its stretched length when it dries, so:

• Leave extra length and use minimal tension; avoid stretching curls when holding them.
• Many stylists cut curly hair dry or partly dry so they see where each curl sits.
• Avoid razor cutting on very curly hair, which can cause frizz.
• Check the shape after drying and refine.

Cross-checking and finishing

Cross-checking means parting the haircut in the opposite direction from the one used to cut it (horizontal partings for a cut done with vertical partings, and the reverse) and checking for precise lines. Remove only stray ends; do not change the established guide. Check balance in the mirror, blow-dry the style, and refine the perimeter and any texturizing once dry. Finally, remove the cape carefully toward the client's back, discard the neck strip, sweep up hair immediately, and clean and disinfect the shears with a hospital-level spray or wipe (Minn. R. 2105.0375, subps. 9 and 15).