5.7 Wigs and Hair Additions
Key Takeaways
Human hair wigs look and style like natural hair and tolerate heat, while most synthetic wigs are cheaper and hold their style but can melt with heat unless labeled heat-resistant.
A strand burn test distinguishes the fibers: human hair burns slowly with the odor of burning hair, while synthetic fiber melts into hard beads.
Measuring for a custom wig includes head circumference, forehead to nape, ear to ear across the forehead, ear to ear over the top, temple to temple and the nape width.
Hair addition methods include clip-ins, tape-ins, sew-ins on a braided track, bonding with adhesive, and fusion with keratin bonds and heat.
Minnesota requires nonabsorbent wig block covers that are disinfected after each wig, individual storage for wigs accepted for service, and a clean covering over a customer's hair when trying on wigs (Minn. R. 2105.0375, subp. 7, item N).
Why this section matters
General theory topic 05.D wigs and hair additions appears in the hairstyling domain, and Minnesota's scope includes styling, cutting and coloring wigs when on a person's head (Minn. R. 2105.0105, subp. 1, item B). Hairstyling as defined in Minn. Stat. 155A.23, subd. 19 also includes the use and styling of hair extensions and wigs.
Why clients wear wigs and additions
- Hair loss from medical treatment, alopecia or genetics
- Fashion changes in length, color or volume without chemical services
- Protective styling for textured hair
- Convenience and versatility
Fiber types
| Feature | Human hair | Synthetic fiber |
|---|---|---|
| Appearance | Most natural movement and shine | Can look very natural; some fibers look shiny |
| Heat | Tolerates heat styling (with care) | Usually melts unless labeled heat-resistant |
| Color | Can be colored (use caution; much is pre-processed) | Generally cannot be colored with hair color |
| Style memory | Must be restyled after washing | Holds its style through washing |
| Cost and care | More expensive, more upkeep | Less expensive, lower upkeep |
Burn test: hold a few strands with tweezers over a flame away from the client. Human hair burns slowly with a distinctive odor of burning hair and leaves powdery ash; synthetic fiber melts quickly into hard beads with a chemical smell.
Wig construction
- Cap (hand-tied or machine-made) wigs have an elastic, mesh foundation with hair attached; hand-tied caps are lighter and more natural at the part but cost more.
- Capless wigs have rows of wefts sewn to elastic strips, which makes them light and airy.
- Lace-front wigs have sheer lace at the hairline for a natural look.
- Hairpieces cover part of the head: toupees, wiglets, falls, and integration pieces that let natural hair pull through.
Measuring for a wig
Take measurements over the hair as it will be worn:
- Circumference around the hairline and nape
- Forehead to nape over the top
- Ear to ear across the forehead (along the front hairline)
- Ear to ear over the top of the head
- Temple to temple around the back
- Nape width across the back of the neck
Cleaning and styling wigs
- Brush or comb from the ends upward to remove tangles before cleaning.
- Clean synthetic wigs with cool water and a mild or wig shampoo; do not rub, and let them air dry on a wig stand or block. Avoid heat.
- Clean human hair wigs with a gentle shampoo and conditioner (or as the manufacturer directs); dry on a block.
- Cut and style a wig on the client's head for the most accurate result, or on a block pinned securely; cut gradually because wig hair does not grow back.
- Set synthetic wigs with water-based sets or steam only if the label allows; style human hair wigs like natural hair.
- Coloring: human hair wigs can be colored with demi-permanent or permanent color, but the hair has often been processed already, so take a strand test first and avoid lightening. Synthetic fibers generally cannot be colored with hair color.
- Cutting: use shears or a razor as the style requires, thin the wig gradually, and blend it with the client's own hair at the perimeter when it is worn as a hairpiece.
Hair additions (extensions)
| Method | How it attaches | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Clip-in | Wefts with small clips placed by the client or stylist | Temporary, removed daily |
| Tape-in | Wefts with medical-grade adhesive tape sandwiching natural hair | Reapplied every several weeks; remover dissolves the tape |
| Sew-in (weave) | Wefts sewn onto cornrow braid tracks | Avoid tight braids; monitor the scalp for tension |
| Bonding | Wefts glued at the base of the natural hair with adhesive | Use a patch test for adhesive sensitivity; remove with solvent |
| Fusion (strand-by-strand) | Individual strands attached with keratin bonds melted with a heat tool | Long-lasting; removal needs a solvent and care |
| Micro-links or beads | Small rings clamp extensions to natural hair | No glue or heat; check for slippage and tension |
Cautions: the client's hair must be strong enough to support the extension; excessive weight or tension causes traction alopecia. Do a strand test and, for adhesives, a patch test as the manufacturer directs. Teach home care: gentle brushing from the ends, avoiding conditioner on bonds, and regular maintenance.
Minnesota rules for wigs (Minn. R. 2105.0375, subp. 7, item N)
- Wig blocks must have a nonabsorbent covering; the covering is removed after each wig service, cleaned and disinfected, and stored in a properly labeled covered container.
- Wigs accepted for service are stored in individual clean and disinfected containers or a new disposable container such as a plastic bag.
- When a customer tries on wigs for purchase, new plastic wrap or another clean, disinfected covering goes over the customer's hair, and the wig must not touch the customer's skin, hair or other wigs.
During a strand burn test, a fiber melts quickly into hard beads with a chemical smell. What is it?
Synthetic fiber
Yak hair
Human hair
Human hair that was previously colored
Under Minnesota rules, what must go over a customer's hair while she tries on wigs for purchase?
Nothing, if the wigs are new
A used wig cap that has been rinsed in warm water
A cotton towel taken from the shampoo station's clean stack
New plastic wrap or another clean, disinfected covering
A client with fine hair wants permanent fusion extensions. Which risk should the cosmetologist explain and test for first?
The extensions will gradually change her natural hair color through contact with the bonds
Extensions prevent shampooing
Excess weight and tension can cause traction alopecia, so her hair's strength is tested first
Fusion bonds cannot be removed
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