4.4 The Shampoo and Conditioning Service: Procedure, Products and Water

Why this section matters

The written practical gives 12% of its questions to shampooing, conditioning and scalp care, more than haircutting's elevation angles or nail enhancements. Questions focus on sequence (what comes first), product choice for a given hair condition, and client protection at the bowl. Product chemistry and pH are covered in Section 4.3; this section is the service itself.

Purpose of the shampoo service

• Cleanse the hair and scalp of dirt, oil, product buildup and dead skin cells.
• Prepare the hair for cutting, styling or chemical services.
• Give the client a relaxing, professional experience that builds loyalty.

Step-by-step service

1. Preparation and consultation

• Wash your hands and set up clean towels, cape, products and a disinfected comb or brush.
• Ask about recent chemical services, scalp sensitivity and allergies, and how the client styles the hair.
• Examine the scalp and hair. Look for abrasions, inflammation, lice, infections or contagious conditions. If you find a contagious condition or open sores in the area, do not proceed (Minn. R. 2105.0375, subp. 7, item G) and refer the client.
• Ask the client to remove earrings and glasses and to put away necklaces.

2. Draping

Place a towel lengthwise across the client's shoulders, fasten a waterproof shampoo cape over the towel, and fold the towel over the cape collar or keep it snug at the neckline so water cannot run down the back (see Section 10.1).

3. Brushing (when appropriate)

A light brushing before a shampoo loosens tangles, product and scale and stimulates circulation. Do not brush before a chemical service, such as a relaxer or permanent wave, or when the scalp is irritated, because brushing can scratch the scalp and chemicals then burn.

4. Positioning at the bowl

Seat the client with hips back and lower the neck into the bowl cradle, using a cushion or towel at the bowl edge. Avoid hyperextending the neck; overextension at a shampoo bowl has been linked to injury of the vertebral arteries.

5. Water testing and wetting

• Test the temperature and pressure on the inside of your wrist before the water touches the client, and keep one finger in the stream so you notice changes.
• Use warm, not hot, water. Keep a cupped hand along the hairline to protect the face, ears and neck, and tilt the head to wet the nape.
• Saturate the hair completely; dry hair under the shampoo will not lather or cleanse.

6. Applying shampoo and scalp manipulations

• Dispense a small amount into your palm and apply evenly from the front hairline back.
• Use the cushions (pads) of the fingertips, not the nails, in small circular movements: start at the front hairline, work back to the crown and down to the nape, and repeat.
• Lift the head gently with one hand to reach the nape.
• Let the shampoo do the work; do not tangle long hair by rubbing the ends together.

7. Rinsing and repeating

Rinse thoroughly, using the cupped hand at the hairline and lifting the head to rinse the nape. A second application is used only when needed. Leftover shampoo can leave the hair dull and the scalp itchy.

8. Conditioning

Remove excess water, apply conditioner from mid-lengths to ends (more where the hair is porous or damaged), comb through with a wide-tooth comb, leave on as directed, and rinse with cool to lukewarm water to help the cuticle lie flat.

9. Finishing

Towel-blot (do not rub), wrap the hair, seat the client upright with support, and comb out gently from ends to scalp with a wide-tooth comb. Clean the bowl of hair after every shampoo and disinfect sinks and shampoo bowls daily (Minn. R. 2105.0375, subp. 15).

Choosing the product

Water quality

Soft water contains few minerals and lathers easily. Hard water contains dissolved calcium and magnesium; it lathers poorly, leaves a film that dulls hair and can interfere with chemical services. Well water may carry iron that discolors light hair, and swimming pool water can leave copper and chlorine that turn light hair green. Clarifying and chelating shampoos remove these deposits, and water softeners or filters help at the source.

Common written practical traps

• The first step of any service is consultation and analysis, not shampooing.
• Testing water on your wrist, not the client's scalp, is the expected answer.
• The fingertip pads are used for manipulations; scratching with the nails can abrade the scalp.
• Before a hydroxide relaxer, the hair is usually not shampooed, because the scalp's natural oils help protect it.