Cheat sheet

Illinois Cosmetology Exam Cheat Sheet

Safety and Infection Control

30%of exam

Decontamination LevelsWorkplace Safety RulesSingle-Use ItemsExposure Incidents

Client Consultation and Analysis

19%of exam

Client ConsultationHair Skin Nail AnalysisPatch TestContraindications

Hairstyling

2%of exam

Thermal ToolsTextured StylingHairpiecesBlowdrying

Haircutting

3%of exam

Haircutting SafetyCurly Hair CuttingRazor CautionShear Care

Haircoloring

10%of exam

Color ChemistryLightening StagesVirgin vs RetouchDeveloper Volume

Chemical Texture Services

12%of exam

Skin Care

4%of exam

Massage MovementsExfoliation TypesFacial ServicesCallus Removal

Eyelash and Eyebrow

4%of exam

Lash Brow SafetyLash ExtensionsTinting RulesAdhesive Removal

Hair Removal

8%of exam

Nail Care

8%of exam

Nail Care TermsNail EnhancementsMMA BanBasin Cleaning

Quick Facts

Exam
Cosmetologist Theory Exam
Body
IDFPR via CTS/PSI
Questions
110 (100 scored + 10 pretest)
Time
120 minutes
Pass
75 or higher
Fee
$200 (all 5 languages)
Outline
Effective October 1, 2026

Decon Ladder

Clean -> Disinfect -> Sterilize

Clean: soilDisinfect: most germsSterilize: all incl. spores

Disinfection vs Sterilization

Disinfection

  • Chemical process
  • Kills most microbes
  • Not spores

Sterilization

  • Physical or chemical
  • Kills all life
  • Includes spores

Routine vs total kill

Disinfection Level Picker

  1. Visible soil on tool→Clean first(Always first step)
  2. Routine implement disinfecting→EPA disinfectant(Hospital-grade)
  3. Need to kill spores→Sterilize(Autoclave)
  4. Porous single-use item→Discard(Never disinfect)
  5. Client cut occurs→Stop, bandage(Then disinfect station)

Decontamination Levels

Cleaning
Removes visible soil
Disinfection
Kills most microbes
Sterilization
Kills all life, spores
Hospital-grade
EPA-registered: bacteria, viruses, fungi
Contact time
Full label time required
Autoclave
Steam sterilizer example

Top 4 Weighted Areas

Safety > Consult > Texture > Color

Safety: 30%Consult: 19%Texture: 12%Color: 10%

Workplace Safety Rules

SDS
Safety Data Sheet per chemical
OSHA
Worker safety rules
EPA
Registers disinfectants
FDA
Regulates cosmetic products
Ventilation
Clears chemical fumes
Electrical safety
Intact cords, dry hands

Single-Use Disposables

Orangewood stick
Discard after one use
Cotton, gauze
Discard after one use
Neck strip
Fresh strip per client
Emery board
Porous, single-use
Pumice stone
Porous, single-use
Buffer block
Porous, single-use

Exposure Incident Steps

Stop service
First response to a cut
Gloves on
Before touching blood
Clean + bandage
Treat the wound
Double-bag waste
Blood-contaminated items
Disinfect station
Before resuming service

Porosity vs Elasticity

Porosity

  • Cuticle condition
  • Absorbs chemicals
  • Feel test

Elasticity

  • Stretch and return
  • Bond strength sign
  • Wet stretch test

Absorb vs stretch

Client Consultation Steps

Intake form
Health, allergy history
Consent form
Before chemical service
Contraindication
Reason to decline, modify
Medical referral
Suspected disease sign
Patch test
24-48 hrs before color

Hair, Skin, Nail Analysis

Porosity
Cuticle's chemical absorption
Elasticity
Stretch and return
Texture
Strand diameter
Density
Strands per square inch
Resistant hair
Low porosity, slow process
Overporous hair
Fast processing, weak

Hairstyling Precautions

Thermal iron
Test on tissue first
Dry hair only
Wet hair steams, burns
Comb shield
Protects scalp from heat
Low heat
Fine or damaged hair

Haircutting Safety

Curly hair
Cut dry, extra length
Straight hair
Precise sections matter
Razor caution
Avoid on fragile hair
Tool check
Inspect shears, clippers

Lightening Stages

Red-brown -> Red -> Orange -> Gold -> Yellow

Red-brown: darkest stageOrange: mid stageGold: near targetPale yellow: lightest

Virgin vs Retouch Color

Virgin application

  • First-time color
  • Mid-shaft and ends first
  • Full strand

Retouch

  • New growth only
  • Avoids overlap
  • Protects prior color

First time vs new growth

Haircolor Application Order

  1. Virgin color, going lighter→Mid-shaft first(Avoid hot roots)
  2. Retouch application→New growth only(Avoid overlap)
  3. Unwanted orange tone→Blue-based toner(Complementary color)
  4. Before first color service→Patch test(24-48 hrs prior)

Hair Color Chemistry

Alkalizer
Swells cuticle (ammonia/MEA)
Developer
Oxygen, lightens melanin
10 volume
3% peroxide, minimal lift
20 volume
6% peroxide, standard lift
Virgin app
Mid-shaft and ends first
Retouch
New growth only

Lightening Stages (Warm)

Red-brown
First decolorization stage
Red
Second stage
Orange
Mid stage
Gold
Near-target warm stage
Pale yellow
Lightest natural stage

Perm Steps

Wrap -> Process -> Test curl -> Neutralize

Wrap: rodsProcess: thio reducesTest: check S-shapeNeutralize: oxidizes, locks

Thio Perm vs Hydroxide Relaxer

Thio perm

  • Reduction
  • Breaks and rebuilds bonds
  • Oxidation neutralizer

Hydroxide relaxer

  • Lanthionization
  • Permanent bond change
  • No bond rebuild

Bonds rebuilt vs bonds converted

Chemical Texture Service Picker

  1. Temporary curl change wanted→Roller set(Not chemical)
  2. Permanent curl, virgin hair→Thio perm(Reduction)
  3. Permanent straight, virgin hair→Hydroxide relaxer(Lanthionization)
  4. Retouch, new growth only→Base cream on old hair(Protects prior service)
  5. Hair was hydroxide-relaxed→Avoid thio perm(Incompatible chemistry)

Perm Chemistry

Thio lotion
Breaks disulfide bonds
Reduction
Softens, reshapes bond
Test curl
Checks processing progress
Neutralizer
Hydrogen peroxide, oxidizes
Rebonding
Locks in new curl

Relaxer Chemistry

Hydroxide
pH above 13
Lanthionization
Permanent bond change
Base cream
Protects scalp first
Strand test
Checks relaxing progress
Neutral shampoo
Acid-balanced, no rebuild

Mechanical vs Chemical Exfoliation

Mechanical

  • Physical scrub or brush
  • Immediate result
  • Any skin type

Chemical

  • AHA, BHA, enzymes
  • Dissolves cell bonds
  • Sun sensitivity risk

Physical vs acid

Skin Care Techniques

Effleurage
Light stroking, soothing
Petrissage
Kneading, deeper stimulation
Tapotement
Tapping, most stimulating
Mechanical exfoliation
Physical scrub or brush
Chemical exfoliation
AHA, BHA, enzymes

Lash and Brow Safety

Isolation
One lash per extension
No lid contact
Adhesive stays off skin
Brow dye ban
No scalp hair dye
Patch test
Before a tinting service

Depilatory vs Epilation

Depilatory

  • Chemical dissolve
  • Surface removal
  • Fast regrowth

Epilation

  • Follicle removal
  • Wax, tweeze, thread
  • Longer-lasting

Dissolve vs pull

Hair Removal Method Picker

  1. Face, sensitive skin area→Hard wax(No strip needed)
  2. Large body area→Soft wax(Strip removes it)
  3. No chemical, follicle removal→Tweeze or thread(Epilation)
  4. Quick surface removal only→Depilatory(Regrows fast)

Hair Removal Methods

Depilatory
Chemical, dissolves at surface
Epilation
Removes from the follicle
Soft wax
Strip removes it
Hard wax
Self-lifts, no strip
Fresh applicator
Never redip the stick

Overlay vs Extension

Overlay

  • Adds strength
  • No added length
  • Natural nail only

Extension

  • Adds length
  • Tip or form built
  • Plus strength

Strength vs length

Nail Care Terms

Liquid-and-powder
Acrylic, polymerizes hard
UV/LED gel
Cures only under light
Hard gel
Files off, no soak
Overlay
Strength, no added length
Extension
Adds length and strength
MMA ban
No methyl methacrylate monomer
Basin cleaning
Required after each client

Common Traps

Cleaning vs Disinfecting

Cleaning removes soil only ≠ Disinfecting kills most microbes

Depilatory vs Epilator

Depilatory dissolves at surface ≠ Epilator pulls from follicle

Virgin vs Retouch Color

Virgin covers full strand ≠ Retouch covers new growth only

Porosity vs Elasticity

Porosity is absorption ≠ Elasticity is stretch and return

MMA vs EMA Nail Liquid

MMA monomer is banned ≠ EMA monomer is legal

Overlay vs Extension

Overlay adds strength only ≠ Extension adds length too

Soft Wax vs Hard Wax

Soft wax needs a strip ≠ Hard wax self-lifts, no strip

Last Minute

  1. 1.Safety and Infection Control = 30%
  2. 2.Client Consultation and Analysis = 19%
  3. 3.Chemical Texture Services = 12% weight
  4. 4.Haircoloring is 10% of the exam
  5. 5.Hair Removal is 8% weighted
  6. 6.Nail Care is also 8% weighted
  7. 7.Skin Care is 4% weighted
  8. 8.Eyelash and Eyebrow is 4%
  9. 9.Haircutting 3%; Hairstyling 2%
  10. 10.110 questions: 100 scored, 10 pretest
  11. 11.120-minute limit; pass score is 75
  12. 12.Fee $200 in all five languages
  13. 13.Fail 3x: refresher course required
  14. 14.3 years to apply after passing
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