8.3 Aromatherapy & Advanced Therapies: Essential Oils, Phytotherapy, Algotherapy, Ayurveda & Cryotherapy

What the Outline Expects

The Advanced Practice outline lists two related items. In Scientific Concepts: "recognize and understand concepts in advanced therapies (e.g., cryogenic, ayurveda, phytotherapy, algotherapy)." In services: "apply knowledge of aromatherapy treatment," meaning the purpose and effect of products such as essential oils and botanicals, and their competent use. WAC 308-20-080(6)(g) also includes "advanced theories; alternative, touch, and spa body treatments" in the Washington master esthetics curriculum.

Aromatherapy Basics

Aromatherapy uses essential oils, which are concentrated, volatile aromatic compounds extracted from plants, to affect mood and the skin. Oils act through inhalation (the sense of smell connects to the brain's limbic system) and through topical application in massage, compresses, masks, and baths.

Aromatherapists describe blends by notes: top notes evaporate fastest (citrus, peppermint), middle notes give the body of a blend (lavender, geranium), and base notes last longest (sandalwood, patchouli, vetiver).

Common Oils and Their Traditional Uses

Safe Use

• Dilute essential oils in a carrier oil (such as sweet almond, grapeseed, or jojoba) before applying them to skin. Low dilutions, about 1% to 2%, are common for facial use; follow the product's directions.
• Patch test new oils, and ask about allergies, asthma, epilepsy, and pregnancy.
• Phototoxicity: cold-pressed bergamot (from compounds such as bergapten), lemon, and lime can cause burns and dark patches when the skin is exposed to UV. Do not use them before sun exposure, and choose bergapten-free versions when available.
• Pregnancy: many oils are avoided in pregnancy; get medical guidance.
• Storage: keep oils in tightly closed dark glass bottles, away from heat and light, which degrade them.
• Label and dispense correctly: WAC 308-20-110 requires containers to be labeled with their contents and products to be dispensed without contaminating the supply.

Phytotherapy

Phytotherapy is the use of plants and plant extracts for their therapeutic benefits. Common esthetic botanicals include aloe vera (soothing and hydrating), green tea (antioxidant), calendula (soothing), witch hazel (astringent), licorice root (brightening), and arnica (traditionally used for bruising). "Natural" does not mean non-allergenic, so screen for plant allergies.

Algotherapy and Thalassotherapy

• Algotherapy uses algae and seaweed (kelp, bladderwrack, spirulina, and other marine algae) in masks, wraps, and baths for their minerals, vitamins, and moisture-binding sugars.
• Thalassotherapy uses seawater, marine mud, and the seaside environment.
• Seaweed can contain iodine, so screen for iodine or shellfish sensitivity and thyroid conditions (section 8.2).

Ayurveda

Ayurveda is a traditional system of medicine from India that seeks balance among three doshas (mind-body types):

Ayurvedic spa treatments include abhyanga (warm oil massage) and shirodhara (a steady stream of warm oil poured over the forehead). A spa may offer them for relaxation; an esthetician does not use ayurvedic concepts to diagnose disease.

Cryotherapy and Cryogenic Treatments

Cryotherapy uses cold to cause vasoconstriction, reduce swelling and inflammation, and temporarily tighten the look of the skin.

• Cryo-facials and cold globes or wands: localized cold applied in continuous motion to calm redness and puffiness.
• Whole-body cryotherapy: standing in a chamber of very cold air for a few minutes. The FDA has warned that it has not cleared or approved these chambers to treat any medical condition, and that they carry risks including frostbite, burns, and oxygen deprivation.
• Medical cold procedures: cryolipolysis (FDA-cleared fat reduction devices) and cryosurgery with liquid nitrogen are medical procedures, not esthetic services.

Cold contraindications: cold urticaria (hives from cold), Raynaud's phenomenon, poor circulation, and reduced sensation. Never leave ice or very cold tools in one spot.

Choosing Holistic Services Responsibly

Holistic therapies can improve relaxation and comfort. Present them honestly: give their traditional purpose, avoid medical claims, and refer any medical concern to a physician.