Section 3.4: Facial Machines & Electrical Equipment

Section 3.4: Facial Machines & Electrical Equipment

Electrical machines enhance facial treatments by providing deeper product penetration, advanced exfoliation, and targeted skin stimulation. For the California State Board exam, estheticians must master the principles of galvanic current, high-frequency current, microdermabrasion, and LED light therapy. Additionally, they must understand electrical safety protocols and the absolute contraindications for electrical treatments.

Galvanic Current

Galvanic current is a constant, direct current (DC) flowing in one direction, producing chemical changes when passed through the tissues. It utilizes two electrodes: the active electrode (used on the client's skin by the esthetician) and the inactive electrode (held by the client to complete the circuit).

Galvanic current is used for two primary procedures:

1. Desincrustation

Desincrustation is a process that softens and emulsifies sebum and blackheads in the follicles, making extractions significantly easier.

• The Chemical Reaction (Saponification): The esthetician applies an alkaline desincrustation solution (pH around 8.0–9.0) to the face. The active electrode is set to negative polarity (the cathode). As the negative current passes through the alkaline solution, it creates a chemical reaction called saponification, which literally converts the sebum into soap.
• Action: Softens the follicles and opens pores.

2. Iontophoresis

Iontophoresis is the process of infusing water-soluble, ionized products into the deeper layers of the skin. It relies on the principle that like charges repel and opposite charges attract.

• Cataphoresis: Uses the positive electrode (anode) to infuse an acidic product.
  • Effects: Tightens and firms skin, calms nerve endings, decreases redness, and constricts blood vessels.
• Anaphoresis: Uses the negative electrode (cathode) to infuse an alkaline product.
  • Effects: Softens and relaxes tissues, stimulates nerve endings, increases blood circulation, and dilates pores.

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High-Frequency Current (Tesla Current)

High-frequency current, also known as Tesla current, is an alternating current (AC) characterized by a high rate of oscillation. It does not produce muscle contractions but instead generates heat and ozone.

There are two methods of application:

• Direct High-Frequency: The esthetician applies the glass electrode directly to the client's skin, moving it in circular motions. The current creates a small spark gap between the glass and the skin, converting oxygen in the air into ozone (O3). Ozone is a powerful germicide that is antiseptic, antibacterial, and drying. This method is ideal for treating oily, acne-prone skin and promoting healing after extractions.
• Indirect High-Frequency: The client holds the glass electrode while the esthetician performs a facial massage. The current flows through the client to the esthetician's hands. This method is deeply relaxing, stimulates blood circulation, and improves metabolism without the drying effect of direct application. It is ideal for dry, mature skin.

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Microdermabrasion

Microdermabrasion is a form of mechanical exfoliation that uses a vacuum and an abrasive surface to remove the dead cells of the stratum corneum. There are two primary types:

• Crystal Microdermabrasion: Uses a handpiece that sprays a high-velocity stream of aluminum oxide or sodium bicarbonate crystals onto the skin while simultaneously vacuuming them back up.
• Diamond-Tip Microdermabrasion: Uses a wand encrusted with industrial diamond chips to physically scrape the skin while a vacuum suction lifts the dead cells. This method is cleaner and avoids the risk of crystals entering the client's eyes or mouth.

Safety & Clinical Controls: The esthetician must control the vacuum pressure and the speed of the passes. Over-exfoliation can cause pinpoint bleeding, bruising, and hyperpigmentation. The skin must be held taut during passes to prevent skin stretching and bruising.

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LED Light Therapy

Light Emitting Diode (LED) therapy uses specific wavelengths of non-thermal light to trigger cellular responses (photorejuvenation).

• Red Light (approx. 640nm): Penetrates the deepest of the visible spectrum. It stimulates fibroblasts to produce collagen and elastin, increases cellular ATP, and promotes healing. It is used for anti-aging and wound healing.
• Blue Light (approx. 470nm): Penetrates superficially. It targets and destroys Cutibacterium acnes bacteria within the sebaceous glands, reduces sebum production, and calms inflammation. It is used to treat active acne.
• Yellow Light (approx. 590nm): Reduces swelling, congestion, and inflammation. It improves lymphatic flow and calms vascular redness, making it ideal for rosacea or sensitive skin.

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Electrical Safety and Contraindications

Estheticians must prioritize electrical safety and understand when electrical treatments are dangerous:

Electrical Safety Rules

1. GFCI Protection: All electrical outlets in wet treatment rooms must be equipped with a Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI), which shuts off power immediately if a short circuit occurs.
2. Grounding: Use three-prong plugs to ensure excess current is safely diverted to the ground.
3. Sanitization: Electrodes must be cleaned with soap and water, then disinfected using an EPA-registered disinfectant before and after every client. Never submerge the electrical cord or metal ends of electrodes in liquid.

Absolute Contraindications for Electrical Treatments

Electrical currents must never be used on clients with:

• Pacemakers or heart conditions (risk of disrupting cardiac rhythm).
• Metal implants (pins, plates, or dental braces; metal conducts current and can cause severe internal burns).
• Pregnancy (risk of unknown electrical effects on the fetus).
• Epilepsy or seizure disorders (light flicker or electrical stimulation can trigger seizures).
• Diabetes (sensory loss makes it difficult for the client to feel pain or burning).
• Couperose skin or open wounds.