Cheat sheet

California Esthetician Cheat Sheet

Safety & Infection Control

40%of exam

Disinfection RulesEPA-Registered DisinfectantBloodborne PathogensCA BBC RegulationsSingle-Use Items

Client Consultation & Skin Analysis

19%of exam

Intake & ConsultationFitzpatrick ScaleSkin AnatomyContraindications

Skin Care Treatments

17%of exam

Facial TreatmentsFacial MachinesChemical PeelsProduct Chemistry

Hair Removal

15%of exam

WaxingHair Growth CycleContraindicationsAftercare

Eyelash & Eyebrow

6%of exam

Lash LiftBrow LaminationTintingDermaplaning

Makeup Application

3%of exam

Color TheoryColor CorrectingSanitationProduct Order

Quick Facts

Exam
CA Esthetician (Skin Care)
Board
CA Board of Barbering & Cosmetology
Administered by
PSI
Questions
75 scored + 10 pretest
Time
90 minutes
Pass score
75% (57/75)
Format
Written only, no practical
Training hours
600 hours
Blueprint
Effective April 1, 2026

SB 803 Key Changes

No practical exam, fewer hours, lash/brow scope

Written exam only1,000 cosmetology hoursLash lamination addedDermaplaning added

Esthetician vs Cosmetology License

Esthetician

  • 600 training hours
  • Skin/facial focus
  • Written exam only

Cosmetology

  • 1,000 training hours
  • Hair, nails, skin
  • Written exam only

Scope narrower, hours fewer

Blood Spill Response

  1. Blood spill occursStop service immediately
  2. Before cleanupPut on gloves
  3. Cleaning spillEPA disinfectant vs pathogens
  4. Materials contaminatedDispose in sealed container
  5. After cleanupDocument the incident

CA BBC Core Rules

BBC
CA licensing board
Barbering & Cosmetology Act
CA governing law
Title 16 Div 9
CA sanitation regs
License display
Visible to public
No CE required
Renewal, no hours
Reciprocity
Endorsement if qualified

Disinfectant Level Selection

  1. Non-electrical implementFull immersion disinfectant
  2. Electrical toolWipe with disinfectant spray
  3. Single-use itemDiscard, never reuse
  4. Visible debris presentClean before disinfecting

Disinfection Protocol

EPA-registered
Required disinfectant type
Hospital-grade
Bactericidal/virucidal/fungicidal claim
Full immersion
Non-electrical implements
Contact time
Per manufacturer label
Clean then disinfect
Debris removed first
Covered storage
After disinfection

Bloodborne Pathogen Response

Stop service
First step, blood spill
Gloves on
Before cleanup
EPA disinfectant
Effective vs HIV/HBV
Dispose properly
Contaminated materials, sealed bag
Document incident
Required record
OSHA standard
Federal overlay

Single-Use & Linens

Single-use items
One client, discard
Wax applicators
Never double-dip
Fresh linens
Every client
Soiled storage
Closed, separate container
Hand washing
Before every service

Fitzpatrick Scale Quick Read

Type I always burns, Type VI never burns

I-II: fair, burns easilyIII-IV: medium, tansV-VI: dark, rarely burnsIV-VI: higher PIH risk

Employee vs Independent Contractor

Employee

  • Employer sets schedule
  • Employer provides tools
  • AB 5 protections apply

Contractor

  • Controls own schedule
  • Owns tools/supplies
  • Different tax treatment

Control test decides status

Client Contraindication Check

  1. Client on AccutaneAvoid peels and waxing
  2. Client has epilepsySkip electrical machines
  3. Adverse reaction occursStop and apply cool compress
  4. Severe reaction (anaphylaxis)Seek emergency medical help

Intake & Consultation

Intake form
Health history, allergies
Informed consent
Signed before treatment
Confidentiality
Written consent to share
Medication screen
Accutane, retinoids, blood thinners
Adverse reaction
Stop, cool, document

Skin Typing & Analysis

Fitzpatrick I-VI
Sun-reaction scale
Types IV-VI
Higher PIH risk
Skin types
Oily/dry/combo/sensitive
Skin conditions
Acne/rosacea/hyperpigmentation
ABCDE rule
Melanoma warning signs

Skin Anatomy Basics

Epidermis
Outer, avascular layer
Dermis
Collagen, elastin, vessels
Acid mantle
pH 4.5-5.5 barrier
Cell turnover
28 days, young adult
Barrier function
Blocks water loss

Facial Massage Strokes

Effleurage glides, Petrissage kneads, Tapotement taps

Effleurage: relax, distributePetrissage: circulation, kneadingTapotement: stimulate, tone

Glycolic Acid vs Lactic Acid

Glycolic acid

  • Smallest molecule
  • Deepest penetration
  • More potent

Lactic acid

  • Larger molecule
  • Gentler action
  • Adds hydration

Potency vs gentleness

Facial Treatment Steps

Effleurage
Light gliding stroke
Petrissage
Kneading, circulation stroke
Tapotement
Tapping, stimulating stroke
Extraction
Gloved, gentle, 10-15 min
Steamer
Softens, opens follicles

LED Light Color Guide

Red repairs, Blue bacteria, Green pigment, Yellow heals

Red: collagen, anti-agingBlue: kills acne bacteriaGreen: pigmentation, calmingYellow: wound healing

Desincrustation vs Iontophoresis

Desincrustation

  • Negative pole
  • Softens sebum
  • Pre-extraction step

Iontophoresis

  • Positive pole
  • Drives product in
  • Post-treatment step

Softens vs delivers

Facial Machines

Galvanic
Direct current, ion delivery
Desincrustation
Negative pole, softens sebum
Iontophoresis
Positive pole, product penetration
High-frequency
Ozone, germicidal, circulation
Microdermabrasion
Mechanical exfoliation, crystals/diamond
LED red
Anti-aging, collagen
LED blue
Anti-acne, bacteria

Mineral vs Chemical Sunscreen

Mineral

  • Zinc oxide/titanium
  • Reflects UV
  • Sits on skin

Chemical

  • Organic filters
  • Absorbs UV
  • Converts to heat

Reflect vs absorb

Chemical Exfoliation & Peels

AHA
Water-soluble, surface exfoliant
BHA
Oil-soluble, salicylic acid
Glycolic acid
Smallest AHA, deepest penetration
Lactic acid
Gentler AHA, humectant
Enzyme peel
Gentlest, protein-digesting
Peel contraindication
Active isotretinoin use

Product Chemistry Actives

Hyaluronic acid
Humectant, holds water
Vitamin C
Antioxidant, brightening
Retinol
Vit-A, cell turnover
Niacinamide
Barrier support, oil control
Zinc oxide
Mineral sunscreen, reflects UV
Avobenzone
Chemical sunscreen, absorbs UV

Hard Wax vs Soft Wax

Hard wax

  • No strips
  • Adheres to hair
  • Sensitive areas

Soft wax

  • Needs strips
  • Adheres to skin too
  • Large areas

Strips vs stripless

Wax Type Selection

  1. Sensitive areaHard wax(No strips needed)
  2. Large body areaSoft wax(Strip removal)
  3. Active isotretinoinNo wax(Skin too fragile)
  4. First-time clientPatch test(Check sensitivity)

Waxing Fundamentals

Hard wax
No strips, sensitive areas
Soft wax
Strip removal, large areas
Anagen phase
Active growth, best removal
Wax direction
Apply with, remove against
Patch test
New client, sensitivity check

Hair Removal Contraindications

Isotretinoin
6-12 month wait
Topical retinoids
2-4 week wait
Sunburned skin
No waxing
Varicose veins
Avoid direct waxing
Aftercare
No sun/heat 24-48h

Lash & Brow Services

Brow lamination
SB 803 expanded scope
Lash lift
Perm rod, curl set
Tinting
Patch test 24-48h
Dermaplaning
SB 803 expanded scope

Makeup Application

Color theory
Complementary, correct tone
Color correcting
Green=redness, peach=dark circles
Sanitation
No double-dip, disposable applicators
Product order
Primer, base, powder, finish

Common Traps

Esthetician license ≠ cosmetology license

600 hours, skin only 1,000 hours, hair+nails+skin

Hard wax ≠ soft wax

No strips, hair only Strips, hair and skin

Desincrustation ≠ iontophoresis

Negative pole, softens sebum Positive pole, delivers product

CE required ≠ true in CA

No CE for renewal Just pay renewal fee

Reciprocity ≠ automatic

Held 3 of 5 years Else equivalency exam

Mineral sunscreen ≠ chemical sunscreen

Reflects, sits on skin Absorbs, converts to heat

Single-use ≠ reusable

Discard after one client Never sanitize and reuse

Last Minute

  1. 1.Safety and Infection Control is 40%
  2. 2.75 scored, 10 pretest questions
  3. 3.90 minutes, need 75% to pass
  4. 4.Written exam only, no practical
  5. 5.600 hours training required
  6. 6.No continuing education needed
  7. 7.EPA-registered disinfectant, full immersion
  8. 8.Isotretinoin blocks peels and waxing
  9. 9.Fitzpatrick IV-VI risk hyperpigmentation
  10. 10.Hard wax needs no strips
  11. 11.Display license where clients see
  12. 12.Blood spill: stop, glove, disinfect
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