Free NC Cosmetology Exam Flashcards

Sanitation removes visible dirt and lowers bacterial counts but does not kill pathogens. Disinfection destroys most disease-causing organisms on non-porous surfaces using EPA-registered chemicals. Sterilization is the highest level, destroying every microorganism including bacterial spores, usually via autoclave. Most cosmetology tools require cleaning then disinfection, not full sterilization.

Disinfectants cannot penetrate organic matter. Hair, oils, blood, and product residue shield pathogens from the chemical, so tools must be washed with soap and water to remove all visible soil, then rinsed and dried before being immersed in disinfectant. Skipping cleaning leaves a biofilm that makes the disinfectant step ineffective.

An OSHA-mandated approach where all blood and certain bodily fluids are treated as potentially infectious, regardless of how healthy a client appears. The rule protects against HBV, HCV, and HIV by requiring gloves, handwashing, and safe handling of contaminated materials for every client, every time.

North Carolina requires this class of disinfectant for salon tools because it is proven effective against bacteria, fungi, and viruses, including HBV and HIV. Household bleach and essential-oil solutions are not acceptable substitutes. The label's dilution ratio and contact time, typically 10 minutes of full immersion, must be followed exactly.

Porous items such as cotton balls, wooden spatulas, orangewood sticks, toe separators, and disposable nail files cannot be safely disinfected because chemicals cannot reach every surface. They must be discarded into a covered trash receptacle immediately after one client. Reusing them risks cross-contamination even when they look clean.

Anatomy is the study of body structure, what parts exist and where. Physiology is the study of how those parts function. A cosmetologist needs both: knowing skull bones guides haircutting and facial design, while knowing how the hair growth cycle works predicts chemical-service results.

From outermost to innermost: the cuticle (overlapping protective scales that control moisture), the cortex (middle layer holding pigment and providing strength), and the medulla (innermost core, often absent in fine or light hair). Chemical services swell the cuticle to reach and alter the cortex; conditioners mainly smooth the cuticle.

The fibrous protein that forms both hair and nails. In hair it makes up the cuticle, cortex, and medulla; in nails it forms the hard nail plate. The sulfur bonds between keratin chains give hair its strength, and those same disulfide bonds are what permanent waves and relaxers break and reform to change hair shape.

Eumelanin provides brown and black tones; pheomelanin provides red and yellow (blonde) tones. Every natural hair color is a mix of the two. Knowing which pigment dominates a client's hair lets you predict the warm undertones that will be exposed during lightening, since pheomelanin-heavy hair lifts through red and orange stages that must be toned.

Anagen is the active growth phase (2-7 years), catagen is the brief transition, and telogen is the resting phase before the hair sheds. Chemical services only affect the hair visible above the scalp, so new anogen growth comes in unaffected. Timing retouches around the growth cycle avoids overlap damage on previously treated hair.

Porosity measures how readily the cuticle absorbs and releases moisture. Low-porosity hair has a tight, resistant cuticle that repels water and product. High-porosity hair has a lifted or damaged cuticle that drinks moisture quickly but cannot hold it, causing dryness and frizz. High-porosity hair needs shorter processing times and protein-rich treatments to patch the gaps.

Elasticity is the hair's ability to stretch a wet strand and spring back to its original length without breaking. Healthy hair stretches up to roughly 50 percent and returns. Low elasticity means weak, damaged bonds that may not survive chemical services, so a strand test tells you whether to proceed, modify the formula, or refuse the service.

Density is how many strands grow per square inch of scalp (thin, medium, thick). Texture is the diameter of each individual strand (fine, medium, coarse). A client can have fine hair that is dense, or coarse hair that is sparse. Density drives how much product to use and how large your sections should be; texture drives processing time and tool choice.

A deep-cleansing shampoo with stronger surfactants that removes product buildup, hard-water minerals, and chlorine left behind by regular shampoo. Used occasionally, since overuse dries the hair. Clarifying before a chemical service ensures even penetration and predictable results; always follow with a conditioning treatment to restore moisture.

Always detangle from the ends upward to the scalp, never from the scalp down. Starting at the scalp pushes every tangle into the bottom, where it bunches into a larger knot that causes breakage and pulling. Working section by section from the bottom up releases each tangle on its own, especially on wet hair, which is more elastic and fragile than dry hair.

Holding the hair straight down with no lift produces a one-length, blunt cut with all weight stacked at the perimeter. It is the foundation of solid-form haircuts and creates the strongest, cleanest line. Any elevation above 0 degrees begins removing weight and adding layering.

Holding sections at 45 degrees builds weight progressively toward the perimeter, creating a stacked or wedge shape. The interior lengths are slightly longer than the exterior, producing the curved, triangular silhouette of a graduated bob. Higher than 0 degrees but lower than 90 degrees, it is the in-between zone for controlled weight building.

At 90 degrees the hair is held straight out from the head, producing uniform layers with even weight distribution and movement. At 180 degrees the hair is pulled straight up from the crown, creating long-layered or increased-layer cuts with maximum volume at the top and length preserved at the perimeter. The higher the elevation, the more weight is removed from the perimeter.

A stationary guide stays in one fixed position on the head; every other section is brought to it, which keeps length consistent in that zone. A traveling (mobile) guide moves with you, so each newly cut section becomes the guide for the next, carrying the length relationship through the whole haircut. Stationary locks in a baseline; traveling carries proportion across the head.

Fine, thin, or damaged hair should be styled at 250-300 degrees F to avoid heat damage; coarse, healthy hair tolerates 350-400 degrees F. Going hotter does not make styling faster, it denatures protein and strips moisture, causing permanent breakage. Always apply a heat protectant first, regardless of hair type.

A Marcel iron has a rotating handle that opens and closes the clamp. The body is gripped with the thumb and middle or ring fingers while the index finger works the rotating handle, letting you spin the barrel smoothly as you wrap hair. Mastering this manual control is what separates a Marcel iron from a spring-loaded curling iron.

A diffuser disperses airflow over a wide area at low velocity, drying curly and wavy hair without blowing the cuticle open or disrupting curl clumps. A concentrator nozzle focuses airflow into a flat stream, used for smooth blowouts and flat-wrap drying on straight or straightened hair. Using a concentrator on curls causes frizz; using a diffuser for a sleek blow-dry takes too long.

The Level System ranks hair color from 1 (black, darkest) to 10 (lightest blonde). Each level is one degree of lightness or darkness, not shade or tone. Formulating color means knowing the client's current level, the desired level, and how many levels of lift the developer must achieve. The gap between them drives your choice of developer volume.

10-volume (3%) deposits color with minimal lift; 20-volume (6%) is standard for permanent color and gives 1-2 levels of lift; 30-volume lifts 2-3 levels; 40-volume lifts 3-4 levels for high-lift blondes. Higher volume means more cuticle swelling and more damage, so choose the lowest volume that achieves the target. Going darker requires only 10-volume.

Semi-permanent is deposit-only with no developer; it coats the cuticle and lasts about 4-6 shampoos. Demi-permanent uses a low-volume developer (5-10 volume) to partially penetrate the cortex, lasting 12-26 shampoos and giving better gray blending. Neither can lighten hair, and both fade gradually without a hard regrowth line.

A small amount of oxidative (aniline-derivative) color is applied behind the ear or on the inner elbow 24-48 hours before the service to check for allergic sensitivity, especially to PPD. Performing the test the same day does not leave enough time for a reaction to appear. NC requires this test before oxidative color services for client safety.

Colors opposite each other on the color wheel neutralize each other. Violet cancels yellow, blue cancels orange, and green cancels red. This is why purple toners clean up brassy blonde and blue-based shampoos cool orange brassiness. Toning only works once the hair is lifted past the unwanted stage; applying ash over orange gives mud, not blonde.

The waving solution (a reducing agent) swells the cuticle and breaks the disulfide bonds in the cortex so the hair can be reshaped around rods. The neutralizer (an oxidizer, usually hydrogen peroxide or sodium bromate) reforms those bonds in the new curled position. Permanent means the changed hair keeps its new shape until it grows out or is cut, not that it lasts forever.

Acid waves use glyceryl monothioglycolate at pH 4.5-7.0 and are gentler, slower, and often need heat, making them best for color-treated, fine, or fragile hair. Alkaline waves use ammonium thioglycolate at pH 9.0-9.6 and process at room temperature, so they are faster and stronger, better for resistant hair but harsher on the cuticle. Match the wave to the hair's condition.

Sodium hydroxide (lye) relaxers work by lanthionization, permanently removing a sulfur atom so disulfide bonds cannot reform; pH runs 12-14 and the relaxer is rinsed then neutralized with a shampoo. Thio (ammonium thioglycolate) relaxers work like a reverse perm, breaking bonds that an oxidizing neutralizer then reforms. Lye relaxers are stronger and faster; thio relaxers are gentler but slower.

A petroleum-based protective cream applied to the scalp, hairline, ears, and any skin the relaxer might touch. Sodium hydroxide relaxers at pH 12-14 can cause severe chemical burns on contact with bare skin. The base creates a barrier that prevents the relaxer from reaching living tissue. Skipping the base is a serious safety failure, not a time-saver.

Normal (balanced oil and moisture), dry (lacks oil and moisture), oily (excess sebum), combination (oily T-zone with normal-to-dry cheeks), and sensitive (easily irritated, reactive). Skin type drives every product and treatment choice: clay masks for oily skin, cream masks for dry skin, and gentle, heat-free care for sensitive skin.

Facial massage strokes should move upward and outward, following the natural lymphatic drainage toward the nodes near the ears and down the neck. This reduces puffiness and encourages detoxification. Downward dragging strokes work against lymph flow and, over time, contribute to sagging, so direction is a treatment choice, not just relaxation.

A deep-cleansing step that uses galvanic (direct) current with an alkaline solution and the negative electrode to emulsify sebum and soften compacted follicle deposits, making blackheads easier to extract. It is usually paired with iontophoresis (positive electrode) afterward to drive treatment products into the skin. The two phases use opposite poles of the same current.

A Wood lamp projects ultraviolet light that makes skin conditions fluoresce in characteristic colors: violet indicates dehydration, purple shows sun damage, and yellow or orange reveals oiliness. Used with a magnifying lamp, it lets you read what the naked eye cannot and choose the correct treatment and home-care plan.

Lukewarm to warm water around 98-100 degrees F is ideal. Hot water reddens the skin, swells tissues, and can damage the nail plate; cold water is uncomfortable and does not soften the cuticle enough for grooming. The soak's job is to soften cuticle tissue and relax the hand before grooming, so temperature is a safety issue, not a luxury.

File the nail from the outside edge toward the center in a single direction. Sawing back and forth creates microscopic tears in the keratin layers that cause peeling, splitting, and weakness. The one-way stroke takes a few seconds longer and protects the nail's structural integrity, and the trade-off is always worth it.

Cuticle remover is an alkaline solution (often potassium or sodium hydroxide) that dissolves only the non-living cuticle clinging to the nail plate. The living eponychium must never be cut; only the dead cuticle is gently pushed away with an orangewood stick or pusher. Cutting live tissue invites infection and scarring.

Base coat first (protects the nail from staining and gives the color something to grip), then one or two thin coats of color, then top coat to seal and add shine. Thin coats dry faster and last longer than thick ones; allow 5-10 minutes between coats to avoid bubbling and smudging. Skipping the base or top coat shortens wear dramatically.

Ethyl methacrylate (EMA) is the safe monomer used in traditional acrylic liquid. Methyl methacrylate (MMA) is prohibited in many states because it forms an unnaturally hard, rigid enhancement that is hard to remove, requires aggressive filing, damages the natural nail, and can cause allergic reactions and harmful vapor exposure. If a product smells unusually strong and is suspiciously cheap, suspect MMA.

UV gel contains photoinitiators that only cure under a UV or LED lamp through light-activated polymerization. Traditional acrylic cures at room temperature through the chemical reaction between liquid monomer and powder polymer, with no light needed. Both create durable enhancements, but gel is odorless and cures only under the lamp while acrylic has the strong smell and air-cures.

A contagious fungal infection of the nail plate or bed that shows up as yellow, white, or brown discoloration, thickening, and separation of the nail from the bed. Cosmetologists must refuse service on an infected nail because filing or soaking can spread the fungus and worsen the condition. Refer the client to a healthcare provider; do not attempt to treat it in the salon.

Pure water is neutral at 7. Below 7 is acidic (healthy skin and hair sit around 4.5-5.5); above 7 is alkaline (sodium hydroxide relaxers run 12-14, alkaline perms 9.0-9.6). Alkaline products swell the cuticle and hair shaft; acidic products tighten and smooth it. Choosing products with compatible pH protects hair, skin, and nails and prevents chemical damage.

The volt is electrical pressure, the push. The ampere is the rate of current flow. The ohm is resistance to that flow. The watt is power consumed. Knowing the four units lets you read a styling-tool label, choose the right circuit, and avoid overloading a salon outlet, and it helps you troubleshoot when a tool trips a breaker instead of just guessing.

The state agency that licenses and regulates cosmetologists, manicurists, estheticians, natural hair care specialists, and teachers in North Carolina. The Board sets training and exam standards, conducts salon inspections, and can issue, renew, suspend, or revoke licenses. It is not a membership association; it is the legal regulator with enforcement authority.

North Carolina requires 1,500 hours at a Board-approved cosmetology school, or 1,200 hours for an apprentice cosmetologist, before sitting for the written and practical exams. Applicants must be at least 16 years old. Hours must be documented and earned at a Board-approved school; self-study or on-the-job hours alone do not qualify.

Per G.S. 88B-21, a North Carolina cosmetologist license renews every three years on or before October 1, with a renewal fee. Cosmetologists must complete 8 hours of Board-approved continuing education per year of the three-year cycle, and up to 24 hours may be completed at any time within the cycle. Apprentice, esthetician, manicurist, and natural hair care licenses renew annually by October 1 instead.

Practicing cosmetology without a valid North Carolina license is a misdemeanor offense punishable by fines and other criminal penalties. The Board can also issue cease-and-desist orders against unlicensed practitioners. Working unlicensed endangers clients and exposes the individual to civil and criminal liability; there is no grandfather exception for experience alone.

A salon must hold its own salon license from the Board, separate from the individual practitioner licenses of those who work in it. Current salon and practitioner licenses must be displayed in a public area where clients can see them. The Board inspects salons for sanitation, ventilation, lighting, and posted rules, and failure to display or to maintain standards can trigger disciplinary action.

Cosmetologists may provide services outside a licensed salon, such as in a client's home, only with a mobile salon permit from the Board. The permit requires the same sanitation and safety standards as a fixed salon and proper record-keeping. Without it, offering in-home services is unlicensed practice and subject to the same misdemeanor penalties.