Free ASE G1 Exam Flashcards

Change the engine oil and filter to the specified viscosity/type, then reset the oil life monitor. Resetting without actually changing the oil (or forgetting to reset after a real change) are both common mistakes graders look for.

Perform a cooling system pressure test using a hand pump tester set to the radiator cap's rated pressure, then watch for pressure drop or visible leaks; a dye test can help locate a leak that isn't obvious visually.

Drain the old coolant, flush the system, refill with the manufacturer-specified coolant type, and bleed trapped air from the system using the bleed valve or high point. Skipping the air bleed can cause overheating even with a full-looking reservoir.

Inspect the belt for glazing/cracking and check the tensioner and pulleys for wear or misalignment. A worn tensioner or misaligned pulley causes squeal even with a new belt installed.

The thermostat controls coolant flow rate to regulate engine operating temperature. A thermostat stuck closed blocks coolant flow to the radiator and causes overheating; stuck open causes the engine to run cold and can trigger a low-coolant-temp DTC.

Retrieve and record diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) before replacing any parts. Swapping components before pulling codes is a common test-question trap and a real shop mistake that wastes parts and labor.

Inspect secondary ignition components (plug wires, coil boots, coil packs) for wear or damage in addition to the plugs themselves, since a worn secondary component can mimic a bad spark plug's misfire symptom.

Inspect the charcoal canister, EVAP lines/hoses, and the mechanical and electrical EVAP components for cracks, disconnects, or damage; a leaking EVAP system commonly triggers a P0442/P0455-style code and a fuel odor complaint.

Determine fluid type, level, and condition first. Using the wrong fluid type or servicing a transmission with already-low fluid can mask the real leak source you're trying to diagnose.

Replace the filter at the same time as a fluid change/service, not on its own separate schedule. Servicing fluid without replacing a due filter leaves debris in the system that can recontaminate fresh fluid.

Replace the external seal (and gasket, if applicable) rather than just topping off fluid. Continued fluid loss past a bad seal will eventually cause shift quality problems and, if severe enough, transmission damage.

Transaxle-driven CV boots protect the joint grease from contamination; a cracked or torn boot lets grease out and dirt/water in, leading to CV joint failure even though the transmission itself is otherwise fine.

Bleed the slave and master cylinder to remove trapped air, then refill with the manufacturer-specified clutch fluid. Air in the hydraulic clutch line causes a soft or gradually sinking clutch pedal even when the clutch itself is good.

A CV (constant velocity) joint transmits power at a constant rotational speed through an angle, common on front-wheel-drive axles; a U-joint (universal joint) transmits power through an angle but speed varies slightly through each rotation, common on driveshafts, and must be installed with correct phasing.

Press-type wheel bearings are excluded; G1 tasks cover serviceable/replaceable bearing, seal, and hub inspection, not bearings that require a press to remove and install.

Identify the specific leak point (axle seal, housing gasket, or vent) before draining and refilling; a blocked axle housing vent can build pressure and force fluid past a good seal, so check the vent for blockage as part of the diagnosis.

Check transfer case fluid level and condition, then confirm engagement and operation of the 4WD/AWD system, and verify front and rear tire sizes match, since mismatched tire diameters can bind or damage the transfer case/differential.

Camber is the inward/outward tilt of the wheel viewed from the front, measured as a vertical angle and directly affecting tire wear pattern. Caster is the forward/rearward tilt of the steering axis and affects steering return and directional stability, not tire wear directly.

Toe is set last because camber and caster changes can shift the toe reading; setting toe first would require rechecking it after every other adjustment. Toe most directly affects tire wear of the three primary alignment angles.

Thrust angle compares the rear axle's centerline to the vehicle's body centerline. A thrust angle problem causes the steering wheel to sit off-center even when toe is set correctly on all four wheels, and the vehicle may 'dog-track.'

Camber first, caster next, toe last. This order accounts for how each angle's adjustment can affect the ones checked afterward, minimizing rework.

Check the manufacturer's wear indicator first (built-in indicator pin, movement spec, or dust boot condition) before condemning the joint on feel alone; specs vary by joint design (load-carrying vs. follower joint).

Inspect the socket for looseness/play and the bushing/boot for cracks or torn rubber; a torn boot lets grease out and contamination in, accelerating wear even if the joint currently feels tight.

Identify whether the system is electric power steering (EPS) or hydraulic power steering before performing any service; hydraulic systems need fluid type/level checks and bleeding, while EPS systems have no hydraulic fluid to service.

Direct TPMS uses a physical pressure sensor mounted in each wheel that reads and transmits actual tire pressure. Indirect TPMS has no pressure sensor at all; it estimates pressure changes by comparing wheel speed sensor data through the ABS module.

Perform a TPMS relearn procedure so the vehicle's module correctly associates each sensor ID with its new wheel position. Skipping the relearn can leave the warning light on or display pressure data from the wrong wheel.

Always torque lug nuts to the manufacturer's specification using a torque wrench in the proper star/criss-cross sequence, never by feel or air-gun alone. Over-torquing can warp brake rotors; under-torquing risks a wheel coming loose.

Rule out incorrect alignment settings (commonly toe or camber) and incorrect tire inflation pressure. Wear patterns differ: feathered edges point to toe issues, while wear concentrated on one shoulder points to camber or inflation.

Calibrate the steering angle sensor after alignment work. Skipping calibration can leave stability control, lane-keep, or other ADAS features using incorrect steering position data even though the alignment itself is correct.

A brake drum is machined and a rotor is resurfaced (or turned) — different terms for a similar concept. Both require measuring the component first with a micrometer/dial indicator against minimum specification before deciding whether machining is even allowed, or if the part must be replaced.

Bleeding removes trapped air from brake lines and calipers/wheel cylinders. Air compresses under pedal pressure (unlike fluid), producing a soft or spongy pedal feel and reduced braking effectiveness.

Store brake fluid in a sealed, closed container. Most brake fluid is hygroscopic (absorbs moisture from air), and absorbed water lowers the fluid's boiling point, increasing the risk of brake fade under hard or repeated braking.

A vacuum booster uses engine intake vacuum (through a check valve) to assist braking and is common on gasoline engines. Hydro-boost uses pressurized power steering fluid for assist instead of vacuum, and is common on diesel engines where vacuum is limited or unavailable.

Burnishing is a break-in procedure of moderate, controlled stops after installing new pads/shoes to properly seat the friction material against the rotor/drum surface. Skipping it can cause noise, uneven pad transfer, or reduced initial stopping performance.

Inspect the caliper slides and pins for corrosion or binding, and confirm the caliper moves freely. A stuck/dragging slide causes uneven pad wear and can pull the vehicle to one side during braking even with good pads installed.

Retrieve ABS-specific diagnostic trouble codes and inspect wheel speed sensor wiring/routing, rather than assuming a brake hydraulic problem. The ABS light relates to the ABS module/sensor circuit, which is separate from base hydraulic brake function.

Adjust the parking brake after shoe service, since shoe replacement changes the drum-to-shoe clearance the parking brake mechanism relies on. Skipping this step commonly leaves the parking brake feeling weak or requiring excessive travel.

A soft or spongy pedal feel diagnoses a hydraulic system problem — most often trapped air or a fluid leak — rather than a mechanical friction (pad/shoe) issue, which typically presents as noise, pulling, or reduced stopping power instead.

Inspect steel brake lines for rust, corrosion, and kinks, and flexible hoses for cracking or bulging under pressure. A corroded line can fail suddenly even if the pads and rotors look fine, so it's checked independently of friction-component wear.

Perform a battery load test (or capacitance test) and inspect the battery cables/terminals for corrosion or loose connections. A battery can show full voltage at rest yet fail under load, so a voltage-only check isn't sufficient.

Run a starter draw (current draw) test and interpret the amperage reading against specification. Excessive current draw points to a binding starter or engine mechanical drag; low draw with slow cranking points to a wiring or connection problem.

Perform a voltage drop test across the suspect portion of the circuit while it's under load. A voltage drop test finds resistance from corrosion or loose connections that a simple continuity check (open circuit) can miss.

Test the charging system output (alternator) rather than just the battery. Low charging output lets the battery slowly discharge while driving, which can look like a battery problem when the alternator is the actual root cause.

Disarm the airbag (SRS) system before beginning electrical repair work. Working on wiring near SRS circuits without disarming the system risks accidental deployment and personal injury.

Save electronic memory settings (radio presets, seat/mirror memory, adaptive learning values) using a memory-saver device or by following the manufacturer procedure before disconnecting the battery, since some modules lose stored data or need to relearn on reconnection.

A continuity test confirms a complete circuit path with no breaks; it verifies a wire or component is electrically intact but does not measure resistance under load the way a voltage drop test does.

Identify the correct refrigerant type for the vehicle before recharging. Introducing the wrong refrigerant type contaminates the system and can damage compressor seals and other A/C components.

A clogged evaporator drain traps condensate inside the HVAC housing, which promotes mold/bacteria growth (the odor) and lets water back up and leak into the cabin. Clean the drain and replace the cabin air filter to fully resolve it.

Verify the compressor clutch engages when A/C is requested and that it cycles on/off appropriately (rather than staying engaged constantly or never engaging), which indicates the clutch, pressure switches, and control circuit are working together.

Check the refrigerant charge level first, since a low or empty charge is the most common cause of warm-air-only complaints; recover and properly recharge to specification only after confirming there isn't an active leak to fix first.