Scientific Concepts
55%of exam
Skin AnatomyInfection ControlBloodborne PathogensSkin DisordersChemistry Basics
Skin Care & Services
45%of exam
FacialsMassageExfoliationMachinesHair RemovalMakeup
Virginia Law & Licensing
Not publishedof exam
LicensingScope of PracticeRenewalDiscipline18VAC41-70
Practical Exam Skills
Not publishedof exam
Kit SetupSanitation DemoClient ProtectionTimed Tasks
Quick Facts
- Exam
- VA Esthetics (NIC)
- Regulator
- VA Board Barbers/Cosmetology
- Vendor
- Prov, Inc.
- Theory
- 110 items, 90 min
- Pass Score
- 75%
- Format
- Theory + practical
- Training
- 600 hrs or apprenticeship
- Blueprint
- NIC Sep 2025
Epidermis Layers Mnemonic
Come, Lets Get Sun Burned
C: Corneum surfaceL: Lucidum palms/solesG: Granulosum keratin startS: Spinosum Langerhans cellsB: Basale mitosis
Disinfection vs Sterilization
Disinfection
- Kills most organisms
- No spores killed
- EPA-registered chemical
Sterilization
- Kills all life forms
- Includes bacterial spores
- Autoclave or dry heat
Most germs vs total kill
Decontamination Level Picker
- Multiuse metal implement→Clean then disinfect(EPA-registered)
- Blood contact risk→Sterilize, autoclave(Kills spores)
- Single-use item→Discard after one use(Never reuse)
- Facial steamer water→Distilled water only(Prevents mineral buildup)
- Wax pot spatula→New spatula each dip(No double-dipping)
Epidermis Layers Deep to Surface
- Basale (germinativum)
- New cell mitosis
- Spinosum
- Langerhans cells present
- Granulosum
- Keratinization begins
- Lucidum
- Palms and soles only
- Corneum
- Dead cells, main barrier
Infection Control Ladder
Sanitize, disinfect, sterilize, low to high
Sanitize: reduce germ countDisinfect: kill most organismsSterilize: kill all, plus spores
Antiseptic vs Disinfectant
Antiseptic
- Safe on living skin
- Lower concentration
Disinfectant
- Surfaces and tools only
- Too harsh for skin
Skin vs surfaces
Dermis & Skin Glands
- Papillary layer
- Upper, capillaries/nerve endings
- Reticular layer
- Deep, collagen and elastin
- Sebaceous gland
- Oil, tied to follicle
- Eccrine gland
- Sweat, temperature regulation
- Apocrine gland
- Scent glands, underarms/groin
Sebaceous vs Sudoriferous Gland
Sebaceous gland
- Produces oil, sebum
- Tied to hair follicle
Sudoriferous gland
- Produces sweat
- Eccrine or apocrine type
Oil vs sweat
Skin Chemistry Basics
- Acid mantle pH
- 4.5 to 5.5
- pH scale
- 0 acid, 14 alkaline
- Emulsion O/W
- Oil suspended in water
- Emulsion W/O
- Water suspended in oil
- Humectant
- Attracts and holds moisture
- Emollient
- Softens, seals in moisture
Skin Disorders & Pigmentation
- Milia
- Trapped keratin, tiny bumps
- Seborrhea
- Excess sebum production
- Rosacea
- Chronic redness, telangiectasia
- Telangiectasia
- Dilated visible capillaries
- Hyperpigmentation
- Excess melanin, dark patches
- Hypopigmentation
- Melanin loss, light patches
- Keratoma
- Callus, thickened keratin
Skin Cancer & Lesions
- Basal cell carcinoma
- Most common, least dangerous
- Squamous cell carcinoma
- Scaly, can metastasize
- Melanoma
- Most dangerous, ABCDE rule
- ABCDE rule
- Asymmetry Border Color Diameter Evolving
- Primary lesion
- Original, e.g. macule papule
- Secondary lesion
- Develops from primary, e.g. scar
Hair Growth Cycle
- Anagen
- Active growth phase
- Catagen
- Transition, shrinking phase
- Telogen
- Resting, shedding phase
- Papilla
- Base, nourishes hair
- Hirsutism
- Excess terminal hair, hormonal
- Hypertrichosis
- Excess hair, non-hormonal
Infection Control Levels
- Sanitation
- Lowest, reduces germ count
- Disinfection
- Kills most organisms, no spores
- Sterilization
- Highest, kills all spores
- Autoclave
- Steam sterilization method
- EPA-registered disinfectant
- Required on salon tools
Bloodborne Pathogens & OSHA
- Universal precautions
- Treat all blood as infectious
- HBV
- Survives 7 days, most infectious
- HIV
- Bloodborne, less surface-hardy
- SDS
- Chemical hazard reference sheet
- Sharps container
- Puncture-resistant, biohazard label
- Exposure incident
- Stop, glove, bandage, disinfect
Massage Movement Order
Effleurage, Petrissage, Friction, Tapotement, Vibration
Effleurage: gliding start/endPetrissage: kneading circulationFriction: deep circularTapotement: tapping percussionVibration: rapid shaking
AHA vs BHA
AHA
- Water-soluble
- Surface exfoliation
- Glycolic, lactic acid
BHA
- Oil-soluble
- Penetrates pores
- Salicylic acid
Surface vs pore-deep
Which Wax For This Area
- Large area, legs or back→Soft wax(Strip removal)
- Small or coarse hair area→Hard wax(No strip needed)
- Sensitive, reactive skin→Sugaring(Water-soluble, gentle)
- Single stray hair→Tweezing(Precision removal)
- Client on Accutane→Refuse waxing(Absolute contraindication)
Consultation & Skin Analysis
- Intake form
- Health history, allergies
- Fitzpatrick I
- Very fair, always burns
- Fitzpatrick VI
- Deeply pigmented, never burns
- Physician release
- Needed for medical conditions
- Draping
- Protects modesty and hygiene
Basic Facial Order
Cleanse, steam, exfoliate, extract, mask, moisturize
Cleanse: remove debrisSteam: soften and open poresExfoliate: remove dead cellsExtract: clear comedonesMoisturize plus SPF: finishMask: treatment mask applied
Soft Wax vs Hard Wax
Soft wax
- Needs cloth strip
- Thin layer applied
- Best for large areas
Hard wax
- No strip needed
- Thick layer applied
- Best for coarse hair
Strip vs strip-free
Which Machine For This Goal
- Soften sebum before extraction→Steamer
- Kill bacteria, oxygenate skin→High-frequency
- Deep clean oily, congested skin→Galvanic desincrustation
- Tone or lift facial muscles→Microcurrent
- Diagnose skin condition under UV→Wood's lamp
- Close-up skin analysis→Magnifying lamp
Contraindications
- Accutane
- No waxing 6-12 months
- Active infection
- Refuse service, refer out
- Sunburn
- Avoid exfoliation and peels
- Rosacea flare
- Avoid heat and stimulation
- Pregnancy
- Avoid certain oils, high-frequency
- Retinoid use
- Increased peel sensitivity
Facial Order & Massage Movements
- Facial order
- Cleanse, steam, exfoliate, extract, mask
- Effleurage
- Light gliding, starts/ends
- Petrissage
- Kneading, boosts circulation
- Friction
- Deep circular, breaks adhesions
- Tapotement
- Percussion, tapping motion
- Vibration
- Rapid shaking movement
Exfoliation & Chemical Peels
- Mechanical exfoliation
- Physical scrub or brush
- Chemical exfoliation
- Acids dissolve cell bonds
- AHA
- Water-soluble surface acid
- BHA
- Oil-soluble, penetrates pores
- Enzyme peel
- Digests dead keratin
- Neutralizer
- Stops the peel reaction
- Patch test
- Check reaction 24-48 hrs prior
Machines & Modalities
- Steamer
- Softens sebum, distilled water
- High-frequency
- Germicidal, oxygenates tissue
- Galvanic
- Ionic desincrustation/iontophoresis
- Microcurrent
- Low-voltage muscle toning
- Magnifying lamp
- Close-up skin analysis
- Wood's lamp
- UV skin condition diagnosis
- Rotary brush
- Mechanical exfoliation tool
Masks & Makeup Basics
- Clay/mud mask
- Oily skin, absorbs oil
- Gel mask
- Hydrating and soothing
- Cream mask
- Dry or mature skin
- Sheet mask
- Single-use, concentrated serum
- Color theory
- Complementary colors neutralize
- Contouring
- Shadow and highlight, shapes face
Hair Removal & Waxing
- Soft wax
- Cloth strip, large areas
- Hard wax
- No strip, hardens then peels
- Wax direction
- Apply with growth, remove against
- No double-dipping
- Fresh spatula each dip
- Sugaring
- Water-soluble, room-temp paste
- Tweezing
- Single hair, brow shaping
- Wax patch test
- 24-48 hrs before first wax
Esthetician vs Cosmetologist
Esthetician
- Skin and hair removal
- Facials and makeup only
Cosmetologist
- Broader scope of practice
- Hair, nails, and skin
Skin-only vs full-service
VA License Path Picker
- New candidate, VA school→600-hour program(School-based path)
- On-the-job trainee→2,000-hour apprenticeship
- Trained out of state→Verify equivalent training(Endorsement path)
- License lapsed under 2 yrs→Pay reinstatement fee($240 total)
- License lapsed over 2 yrs→New application, retest
VA Licensing Requirements
- Regulator
- Board for Barbers/Cosmetology, DPOR
- School training
- 600 hours minimum
- Apprenticeship
- 2,000 hours alternative path
- Minimum age
- 16 years old
- Diploma
- No HS diploma required
- Exam vendor
- Prov, Inc. since Jan 2025
- Pass score
- 75% theory and practical
Renewal vs Reinstatement
Renewal
- On-time, before expiration
- $120 fee only
Reinstatement
- Late, after expiration
- $240 fee under 2 yrs
On-time vs late fee
VA Renewal & Discipline
- Renewal cycle
- Every 2 years
- Renewal fee
- $120, eff. Dec 2025
- CE requirement
- None required
- Reinstate under 2 yrs
- $240 total fee
- Reinstate over 2 yrs
- New application, retest
- Discipline options
- Suspend, revoke, fine, probation
- Salon license
- Separate establishment license
VA Scope of Practice
- Allowed services
- Facials, waxing, makeup, lashes
- Diagnosing/prescribing
- Reserved for physicians only
- Hair cutting/surgery
- Outside esthetician scope
- License display
- Visible at work location
- Regulation cite
- 18VAC41-70 Esthetics Regulations
- Board phone
- (804) 367-8509
Practical Exam Basics
- Own kit required
- Clean, disinfected supplies
- Kit rule
- Nothing returned once removed
- Disinfectant type
- Wipes only, no sprays
- Dress code
- Professional, no branding
- Time limit
- Work until section ends
Common Traps
Antiseptic vs Disinfectant
Antiseptic used on skin ≠ Disinfectant used on tools
Disinfection vs Sterilization
Disinfection kills most germs ≠ Sterilization kills spores too
Esthetician vs Cosmetologist License
Esthetician covers skin, hair removal ≠ Cosmetologist covers hair, nails, skin
Renewal vs Reinstatement Fee
Renewal is on-time, $120 ≠ Reinstatement is late, $240
AHA vs BHA Acids
AHA is water-soluble surface ≠ BHA is oil-soluble pore-deep
Soft Wax vs Hard Wax
Soft wax needs cloth strip ≠ Hard wax removes without strip
Sebaceous vs Sudoriferous Gland
Sebaceous gland makes oil ≠ Sudoriferous gland makes sweat
Last Minute
- 1.600 school hours, or apprenticeship path
- 2.Apprenticeship path needs 2,000 hours
- 3.Minimum licensing age is 16
- 4.Pass score is 75% both exams
- 5.Theory exam: 110 items, 90 minutes
- 6.Scientific Concepts domain weighs 55%
- 7.Skin Care Services domain weighs 45%
- 8.Virginia law items embedded
- 9.Renew license every two years
- 10.No continuing education required
- 11.Prov, Inc. administers VA exams now
- 12.Never double-dip the wax spatula
- 13.Accutane blocks waxing six months plus
- 14.Display your license at your station
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