Cheat sheet

California Cosmetology Cheat Sheet

Safety and Infection Control

30%of exam

Client Consultation and Hair, Skin, and Nail Analysis

19%of exam

Chemical Texture Services

12%of exam

Haircoloring

10%of exam

Hair Removal

8%of exam

Hair Removal RulesDepilation vs EpilationWax temperature testNo double dipping

Nail Care

8%of exam

Skin Care

4%of exam

Eyelash and Eyebrow

4%of exam

Lash and Brow SafetyCyanoacrylate adhesiveCoal-tar dye warningIsolated lash bonding

Haircutting

3%of exam

Cutting Tool SafetyRazor blade disposalShear disinfectionClipper disinfection

Hairstyling

2%of exam

Thermal Styling PrecautionsHeat test on clothTextured hairstylingBlowdrying procedures

Quick Facts

Exam
Cosmetologist Theory
Board
California Barbering and Cosmetology
Vendor
PSI Services
Questions
110 (100 scored)
Time
2 hours
Pass
Criterion-referenced standard
Pass rate
67% average in 2025
Fee
$125 exam plus license
Training
1,000 hours or apprenticeship
Practical
Eliminated January 2022
Blueprint
Effective April 1, 2026
Languages
English, Spanish, Vietnamese, Korean, Chinese

Decontamination Ladder

Clean, then disinfect, then sterilize

Clean: soap and waterDisinfect: EPA productSterilize: autoclave only

Cleaning vs Disinfection

Cleaning

  • Soap and water
  • Removes visible debris
  • Always the first step

Disinfection

  • EPA-registered product
  • Destroys pathogens
  • Needs a clean tool

Remove debris, then kill

Decontamination Picker

  1. Non-electrical toolClean, then immerse(Liquid disinfectant)
  2. ShearsClean, then spray/wipe(Never immerse)
  3. Clippers or hot toolsSpray or wipe(Electrical)
  4. Buffer or pumiceDiscard after client(Cannot disinfect)
  5. Reusable electrolysis toolAutoclave or dry heat(FDA listed)
  6. Used electrolysis needleSharps container(Biohazard waste)
  7. Foot basin linerDiscard immediately(Never reused)
  8. Used towelClosed container(Launder before reuse)

Decontamination Levels

Cleaning
Soap, water, debris removal
Disinfection
Chemicals destroy pathogens
Sterilization
Destroys all microbial life
Required order
Clean before you disinfect
Non-electrical tools
Total immersion, liquid disinfectantImmerse
Shears
Spray or wipe only
Electrical tools
Spray or wipe disinfect
Electrolysis tools
Autoclave or dry heatSterilize
Dry step
New clean paper towel

Biggest Three Topics

Safety 30, Consultation 19, Texture 12

Safety and Infection ControlConsultation and AnalysisChemical Texture ServicesTogether 61 percent

Disinfection vs Sterilization

Disinfection

  • Liquid immersion
  • Salon tools
  • Kills most pathogens

Sterilization

  • Autoclave or dry heat
  • Electrolysis tools
  • Kills all microbial life

Salon tools vs needles

Disinfectant Container Rules

Container label
Reads 'Disinfectant Solution'
EPA claims
Bactericidal, fungicidal, virucidalAll three
Mixing
Per manufacturer directions
Volume
Enough to immerse tools
Cover
Covered at all times
Change solution
When cloudy or debris
Removing tools
Gloves or tongs required
Empty bottle
Manufacturer container stays onsite

Storage and Labeling

Disinfected tools
Covered, labeled 'Clean'
Used tools
Labeled 'Dirty' or 'Soiled'
New supplies
Covered place labeled 'New'
Pouches, holsters
No tools carried on uniform
Used towels
Closed container until laundered
Clean towels
Clean closed cabinet storage
Laundry heat
160F water, 25 minutes
Hair waste
Covered waste container

Federal Agencies and Bans

OSHA
Workplace safety, hazard communication
EPA
Registers salon disinfectants
FDA
Regulates cosmetics and devices
CDC
Standard precautions guidance
SDS
Manufacturer hazard document
Methyl methacrylate
Banned from the premises
Methylene chloride
Banned from the premises
FDA-banned cosmetics
Prohibited on the premises

California Establishment Rules

Neck strip
Cape never touches neck
Headrest
Clean towel or paper
Shampoo bowl
Cleansed after each shampoo
Treatment table
Fresh paper, towel, sheet
Pencil cosmetics
Sharpen before each use
Product containers
Clean, closed, correctly labeled
Decanting
Do not contaminate remainder
Handwashing
Wash before each client
In charge
Licensee, never an apprentice
Natural hair braiding
Exempt unless cutting/chemicals
Threading
Exempt from license

Disorder vs Disease

Disorder

  • Non-infectious change
  • Ridges, white spots
  • Service may proceed

Disease

  • Infection present
  • Fungus or paronychia
  • Refuse and refer

Work around vs refer

Service or Refer

  1. Contagious scalp conditionRefuse and refer(No diagnosis)
  2. Broken or inflamed skinNo service there(Board rule)
  3. Your hands are brokenWear gloves(Board rule)
  4. Client on isotretinoinNo waxing(Fragile skin)
  5. Diabetes with neuropathyPhysician clearance(Pedicure risk)
  6. Aniline color requestedPatch test first(24-48 hours)
  7. Unknown home colorTest for metallic salts(Strand sample)
  8. Non-contagious dandruffProceed with care(Adjust products)

Hair, Skin, Nail Structure

Cuticle
Overlapping protective outer layer
Cortex
Melanin, strength, disulfide bonds
Medulla
Innermost, often absent
Porosity
Absorbs moisture and chemicals
Elasticity
Stretch and recovery
Texture
Diameter of one strand
Epidermis
Outer non-living layer
Dermis
Living layer below epidermis
Matrix
Produces the nail plate
Lunula
Visible whitish matrix
Eponychium
Living skin sealing plate
Hyponychium
Skin under free edge

Patch Test vs Strand Test

Patch test

  • Allergy screen
  • 24-48 hours ahead
  • Behind ear or elbow

Strand test

  • Predicts the result
  • Checks processing time
  • Done at the service

Safety vs result

Refer Out or Proceed

Pediculosis capitis
Head lice, refuse serviceRefer
Tinea capitis
Scalp ringworm, refuse serviceRefer
Scabies
Mite infestation, refuse serviceRefer
Impetigo
Bacterial infection, refuse serviceRefer
Onychomycosis
Nail fungus, refuse serviceRefer
Paronychia
Infected nail fold, referRefer
Pityriasis
Dandruff, service may proceedProceed
Alopecia areata
Non-contagious, service proceedsProceed
Trichoptilosis
Split ends, service proceedsProceed
Broken skin
No service on area
Naming a disease
Outside cosmetology scope

Tests Before Service

Predisposition test
Aniline color allergy screen
Patch timing
24-48 hours before service
Patch site
Behind ear or elbow
Positive reaction
No color service
Strand test
Predicts result and timing
Elasticity test
Wet strand stretch recovery
Metallic salt test
Peroxide and ammonia sample
Intake form
Medications, allergies, prior services
Consent form
Written record of risks

Thio vs Hydroxide

Thio

  • Ammonium thioglycolate
  • Breaks disulfide bonds
  • Separate neutralizer

Hydroxide

  • Sodium or guanidine
  • Forms lanthionine bonds
  • Acid-balanced shampoo

Never layer the two

Chemical Service Picker

  1. Firm curl, resistant hairAlkaline wave(Thioglycolate)
  2. Softer curl, fragile hairTrue acid wave(Added heat)
  3. Permanent straighteningHydroxide relaxer(Lanthionization)
  4. Hair already hydroxide-relaxedNever apply thio(Breakage)
  5. Relaxer retouchNew growth only(No overlap)
  6. Neutralize yellow toneViolet-based toner(Complementary)

Texture Service Chemistry

Bond broken
Disulfide (cystine) cross-links
Alkaline wave
Ammonium thioglycolate, room temperature
True acid wave
Glyceryl monothioglycolate, added heat
Neutralizer
Oxidizes and rebuilds bonds
Hydroxide relaxer
Sodium, potassium, lithium, guanidine
Lanthionization
Irreversible single-bond conversion
Hydroxide stop
Acid-balanced neutralizing shampoo
Thio relaxer
Thioglycolate, separate neutralizer
Retouch rule
New growth only
Overlap
Causes severe breakage
Scalp protection
Apply away from scalp

Neutralizing Pairs

Violet kills yellow, blue kills orange

Violet cancels yellowBlue cancels orangeGreen cancels red

Level vs Tone

Level

  • Light or dark
  • Numbered scale
  • Sets lift needed

Tone

  • Warm or cool
  • Chooses the base
  • Neutralized by opposite

How light vs which shade

Color Theory Fast Facts

Level
Lightness or darkness
Tone
Warmth or coolness
Violet cancels
Yellow
Blue cancels
Orange
Green cancels
Red
10 volume
About 3% peroxide
20 volume
About 6% peroxide
30 volume
About 9% peroxide
40 volume
About 12% peroxide
Metallic salts
React violently with peroxide
Coal-tar caution
FDA warning label required
Toner
Adjusts tone after lightening

Developer Volumes

10=3, 20=6, 30=9, 40=12 percent

10 volume about 3%20 volume about 6%30 volume about 9%40 volume about 12%

Depilation vs Epilation

Depilation

  • Removes at the surface
  • Shaving, depilatory cream
  • Fast regrowth

Epilation

  • Removes from follicle
  • Waxing, sugaring, tweezing
  • Slower regrowth

Surface vs follicle

Hair Removal Rules

Depilation
Removes hair at surface
Epilation
Removes hair from follicle
Soft wax
Fabric strip removal
Hard wax
Removed without a strip
Sugaring
Paste epilation method
Threading
Twisted thread epilation
Temperature test
Test on your wrist
Application direction
With the hair growth
Strip removal
Against the hair growth
Double dipping
Never reuse an applicator
Isotretinoin skin
No waxing, refer out

Foot Spa Three Cycles

Each client, each day, each week

Client: clean and disinfectDay: detergent then disinfectWeek: 6-hour soakLog every cycle

Whirlpool vs Pipeless

Whirlpool

  • Circulating water system
  • Screen removed daily
  • Weekly 6-hour soak

Pipeless

  • Footplate and impeller
  • Parts scrubbed each client
  • Weekly 6-hour soak

Pipes vs impeller parts

Foot Spa Cycle

  1. After each clientClean, disinfect 10 minutes(Log it)
  2. End of each dayDetergent, then disinfectant(10 minutes each)
  3. Once each weekLeave disinfectant 6 hours(Then flush)
  4. Using disposable linersDiscard, clean basin(Log it)
  5. Spa out of serviceSign plus log note(Keep sanitary)

Nail Service Safety

Liquid MMA
Poisonous, banned on premises
EMA
Accepted monomer alternative
Metal instruments
Only nail and cuticle work
Razor-edged callus tool
Prohibited in California
Needle-like extractor
Prohibited in California
Ventilation
Source capture at table
Filing dust
Particulate mask while filing
Buffers, pumice
Discard after one client
Nail brushes
Clean, dry, store covered

Foot Spa Disinfection

After each client
Drain, scrub, rinse, disinfect
Contact time
At least 10 minutes
End of day
Detergent, then disinfectant
Weekly cycle
Disinfectant sits 6 hours
Log entries
Date, time, initials, cycle
Log access
Shown to client on request
Basin liners
Single use, never reused
Liner stock
Five liners per basin
Out of service
Sign plus log notation
Final wipe
New clean paper towel

Massage Movements

Effleurage, petrissage, tapotement

Effleurage: glidingPetrissage: kneadingTapotement: tapping

Epidermis vs Dermis

Epidermis

  • Outer non-living layer
  • Exfoliation allowed
  • Within licensed scope

Dermis

  • Living layer
  • Beyond licensed scope
  • Breaching is invasive

Scope stops at epidermis

Skin Scope Limits

Exfoliation limit
Epidermis only
Invasive procedure
Anything beyond the epidermis
Visible muscle contraction
Prohibited use of electricity
Metal needles
Prohibited except electrolysis
Physician-only products
Outside cosmetology scope
Exfoliation products
Over-the-counter only
Effleurage
Light gliding stroking
Petrissage
Kneading that lifts tissue
Tapotement
Percussion tapping movement
Hot towels
Safe application and removal

Lash and Brow Safety

Lash adhesive
Cyanoacrylate, patch test first
Bonding rule
Isolated natural lash only
Adhesive contact
Keep off lid and eye
Permanent lash dye
No approved color additive
Coal-tar dye label
Not for lashes or brows
Tinting
Follow manufacturer instructions
Remover
Keep away from eye

Cutting Tool Safety

Razor
Guard plus fresh blade
Blade disposal
Puncture-resistant sharps container
Shears
Palmed or closed when carried
Clippers
Spray or wipe disinfect
Elevation
Angle raised from head
Guideline
Section that sets length
Curly hair
Allow for shrinkage

Thermal Styling Precautions

Heat test
Test on damp cloth
Fine or porous hair
Lower the temperature
Scalp shield
Hard rubber comb barrier
Blowdrying
Keep the nozzle moving
Extensions
Application, maintenance, removal
Locking, braiding
Textured hairstyling procedures
Hairpieces
Application, maintenance, removal

Common Traps

Clean vs disinfect

Cleaning removes debris Disinfection destroys pathogens

Immerse vs wipe

Non-electrical tools immerse Shears and clippers wipe

Disorder vs disease

Disorder allows service Disease requires referral

Depilation vs epilation

Depilatory removes surface hair Waxing removes the root

Thio vs hydroxide

Thio bonds can reform Hydroxide change is permanent

Level vs volume

Level describes hair darkness Volume describes peroxide strength

Scope vs medicine

Cosmetologists recommend referral Only physicians diagnose

Practical vs theory

Practical ended in 2022 Written theory exam only

Scoring standard

Criterion-referenced pass standard 2026 outline omits percentage

Last Minute

  1. 1.Safety and Infection Control = 30%
  2. 2.Consultation and Analysis = 19%
  3. 3.Chemical Texture 12%; Haircoloring 10%
  4. 4.110 questions; 100 are scored
  5. 5.Two hours; no practical exam
  6. 6.Clean first, then disinfect
  7. 7.Shears: wipe, never immerse
  8. 8.Foot spa disinfectant: 10 minutes
  9. 9.Weekly foot spa soak: 6 hours
  10. 10.Patch test 24-48 hours ahead
  11. 11.Violet cancels yellow; blue cancels orange
  12. 12.Never relax over relaxed hair
  13. 13.Exfoliate the epidermis only
  14. 14.No methyl methacrylate on premises
  15. 15.1,000 school hours or 3,200 apprentice
  16. 16.$125 exam and license fee
  17. 17.Passing standard is criterion-referenced
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