8.2 Hair Styling: Wet Styling, Blow-Dry Styling, Thermal Styling and Natural Hair (Braids, Twists and Locks)
Key Takeaways
Wet styling sets hair while it is damp: drying re-forms hydrogen bonds in the new shape, so the style holds until the hair is wet again.
When blow-drying, direct airflow from scalp to ends in the direction of the cuticle, keep the dryer moving, and use a concentrator nozzle for smooth, directional control.
Before using a thermal iron or pressing comb, test the heat on a white towel or tissue; scorching means it is too hot, and low settings protect fine, damaged or lightened hair.
Locs can be started with comb coils, two-strand twists, braids or palm rolling; they are maintained by palm rolling or interlocking new growth, and constant tension on the roots can cause traction alopecia.
Hair braiding is excluded from Virginia's statutory definition of cosmetology (§ 54.1-700), but NIC Barber 1 candidates are still expected to know natural-hair styling principles and safety.
Why Styling Is on a Barber Exam
The NIC Barber 1 outline's Hair Design area asks you to apply knowledge of the principles, procedures and safety of hair styling: wet styling, blow-dry styling, thermal styling, and natural hair styling (for example, braiding and locks). Virginia's 750-hour curriculum also includes styling hair with a hand hair dryer in its 270-hour cutting unit. A great cut can look wrong if it is styled against the hair's growth or texture.
The Science Behind Styling
Physical styling works on the hydrogen bonds in the cortex (Section 4.2).
- Water and heat break hydrogen bonds, so the hair can be reshaped.
- Drying and cooling re-form them in the new position.
- The style lasts until the hair is wet again or absorbs humidity, which is why styles "fall" in humid weather.
- Physical styling does not change disulfide bonds. Only chemical services such as permanent waving and relaxing do that, and those are master barber or cosmetology services in Virginia.
Wet Styling
Wet styling shapes hair while it is damp and lets it dry in place.
- Comb-out and finger styling: comb the hair into its finished direction (side part, slick-back, forward fringe) and let it air-dry or dry it under low heat.
- Molding or sculpting: apply gel or a water-based pomade to damp hair and comb it into a smooth, set shape.
- Natural air-dry for curls: apply a leave-in conditioner or curl cream, encourage the curl pattern by scrunching or twisting with the fingers, and avoid touching it until dry to reduce frizz.
Product guide: gels give firm hold and a wet look; water-based pomades give shine and rinse out easily; clays and pastes give a matte texture; creams give soft control for curly or coarse hair.
Blow-Dry Styling
| Tool or attachment | Use |
|---|---|
| Concentrator nozzle | Directs a narrow stream of air for smooth, controlled styling |
| Diffuser | Spreads airflow to dry curly or wavy hair while keeping its pattern and limiting frizz |
| Vent brush | Lets air pass through for fast drying and loose direction |
| Round brush | Builds volume and curve. A smaller barrel gives a tighter bend |
| Paddle or flat brush | Smooths and straightens |
| Styling comb | Precise direction in short hair (a "comb-and-blow" technique) |
Technique and safety:
- Remove excess water first by towel-blotting.
- Apply heat protectant or a styling aid.
- Direct the airflow from the scalp toward the ends, in the direction the cuticle lies, for smoothness and shine. Lift at the roots for volume.
- Keep the dryer moving, and don't hold it close to the scalp or in one spot. Overheating can burn the scalp and dry out the hair.
- Finish with a cool shot to set the style.
- Clean the dryer's air intake filter regularly. Lint buildup makes the motor overheat.
Following the direction of growth, especially at crowns and cowlicks, keeps short styles lying flat instead of springing up.
Thermal Styling
Thermal styling uses heated implements on dry hair.
| Implement | Use | Key points |
|---|---|---|
| Thermal (marcel) iron | Curls and waves | Has a rod (prong) and a shell (groove). Barrel size sets curl size. Rotate the iron, not the hair, to avoid fishhooked ends |
| Flat iron | Straightening and smoothing | Use thin sections and keep it moving |
| Pressing comb | Temporarily straightens curly hair (a "soft press" or "hard press") | Heated metal comb; can scorch if too hot or used on wet hair |
Thermal safety:
- Test the heat on a white towel or tissue before touching the hair. Scorching or yellowing means it is too hot.
- Use lower settings for fine, damaged, gray or lightened hair. Coarse, resistant hair tolerates more heat.
- Protect the scalp with a comb placed between the iron and the scalp. Never rest a hot iron near the ear, neck or skin.
- Use thermal tools on clean, completely dry hair. Steam from damp hair can burn.
- Let tools cool on a heat-resistant stand. Clean and disinfect them according to the manufacturer's directions.
- Under 18VAC41-20-270 C 6, heat-producing appliances must be kept in safe working order, stored safely and placed so they cannot accidentally injure the client or barber.
Natural Hair Styling: Braids, Twists, Coils and Locks
Natural hair styling works with tightly curled and coily hair without chemical straightening. Code of Virginia § 54.1-700 excludes hair braiding from the definition of cosmetology. Barbers still meet these styles daily and must understand them for the NIC exam and for haircut design.
| Style | How it is made | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Cornrows | Hair is braided close to the scalp, picking up hair as each braid travels. Usually an underhand (inverted) braid, which sits raised on the scalp | Parts should be clean and even. Do not braid too tightly |
| Box braids and individual braids | Free-hanging three-strand braids from square-shaped parts | Added fiber increases weight. Avoid heavy braids on fragile hairlines |
| Two-strand twists | Two sections twisted around each other | Can also be used to start locs |
| Comb coils | Small sections coiled from root to end with a fine-tooth comb | A common way to start locs on short hair |
| Locs (dreadlocks) | Hair sections that mat and fuse into permanent rope-like strands | Started with comb coils, two-strand twists, braids or palm rolling. Maintained by palm rolling new growth (often with a light product) or interlocking the root with a tool or fingers |
Natural-hair safety and maintenance:
- Traction alopecia is the main risk. Tight braids, heavy extensions and constant re-tightening of loc roots pull hair from the follicle, especially at the hairline and temples (Section 4.5). Watch for small bumps, tenderness or thinning edges.
- Shampoo braids and locs gently, with diluted shampoo worked into the scalp. Rinse thoroughly and dry completely, because damp, dense locs can develop odor and mildew.
- Moisturize the scalp and hair. Avoid heavy waxes that build up inside locs.
- A barber who cuts around natural styles (tapers and fades with twists or locs on top, or loc grooming) uses the same reference points and clipper techniques as any other cut, while protecting the styled sections.
Finishing and Client Education
Show the client how much product to use and how to apply it. Explain the tools that recreate the style at home and how often to rebook. Matching the style to the client's texture, growth pattern and lifestyle, which you identified in the consultation, is what makes it last between visits.
Why does a wet-set or blow-dried style lose its shape when the hair gets wet or humid?
The disulfide bonds dissolve in water
Water breaks the hydrogen bonds that held the hair in its new shape
The melanin in the cortex is washed out
The cuticle is permanently removed by humidity
Before using a thermal iron on a client's hair, how should the barber test its temperature?
Touch the iron briefly to the client's neck
Test it on wet hair to see whether it steams
Hold it near the barber's own face
Clamp it on a white towel or tissue and check for scorching
Which is a recognized method for maintaining established locs as new growth comes in?
Palm rolling or interlocking the new growth at the root
Applying a chemical relaxer to the roots
Brushing the locs out with a paddle brush
Cutting all locs to one inch every month
Sections you finish are checked off in the contents.