8.1 Draping, Shampooing, Conditioning and Scalp Treatments
Key Takeaways
In Virginia, whenever a haircloth is used, a clean towel or neck strip must be placed around the client's neck so the cloth never touches the skin (18VAC41-20-270 D 2).
A haircutting drape is a neck strip plus a cutting cape, a shampoo drape adds a towel, and a chemical drape uses a towel under and over a waterproof cape.
Test shampoo water temperature on the inside of your wrist, and keep a hand between the spray and the client's face and ears.
Massage shampoo into the scalp with the cushions of the fingertips, never the fingernails, and rinse until no product remains.
Scalp treatments are chosen from the scalp analysis: normal-scalp maintenance, dry-scalp treatments, oily-scalp treatments, dandruff treatments with medicated shampoos, and general hair-loss care.
Why Draping and Shampooing Are Tested
The NIC Barber 1 Hair Care Services domain (30% of scored items) asks you to apply knowledge of draping (chemical, shampoo, haircutting), of principles and procedures for shampooing and conditioning, and of scalp treatments and scalp massage. These steps protect the client's skin and clothing, prepare the hair for an accurate cut, and are often where infection-control errors happen.
Draping
Virginia's neck-protection rule: whenever a haircloth (cape) is used, a clean towel or neck strip must be placed around the client's neck so the cape does not touch the skin (18VAC41-20-270 D 2). Clean towels and linens must be used for each client (270 D 1).
| Drape | When | How |
|---|---|---|
| Haircutting drape | Haircuts, outlines, neck shaves | Sanitize your hands; have the client remove jewelry and glasses as needed; turn the collar under; wrap a neck strip snugly; fasten the cutting cape over it; fold the strip down over the cape's neckline. The cape should not be so tight that it is uncomfortable |
| Shampoo drape | Shampoo, scalp treatments | Neck strip or towel, cape, then a towel over the cape at the neck so water does not run down the neck. For a back-bowl shampoo, place a towel to cushion the neck against the bowl |
| Chemical drape | Hair color, tints | Towel under the cape, waterproof cape, and a second towel over the cape, so chemicals cannot reach skin or clothing |
The examiner on the NIC practical scores whether you maintain the drape throughout each section. Retuck and adjust as you work.
The Shampoo Service
Purpose
Shampooing removes dirt, oil, product buildup and loose scales. It prepares hair for cutting (damp hair shows the true fall and texture) and gives you a close look at the scalp. Some haircuts, especially razor cuts, require damp hair.
Procedure
- Analyze the hair and scalp first. Do not shampoo over open sores, inflamed areas or signs of contagious disease.
- Drape for shampoo and seat the client comfortably at the bowl, either reclined at a back-bowl or leaning forward at a front-bowl.
- Test the water on the inside of your wrist for a comfortable warm temperature and steady pressure. Keep testing while you work, because temperature can change.
- Wet the hair thoroughly, shielding the client's face and ears with your free hand.
- Apply shampoo in small amounts, distributed across the scalp from front to back.
- Manipulate with the cushions of the fingertips in small, firm, circular (rotary) movements. Start at the front hairline and work back to the crown and nape. Never use your fingernails: scratching opens the scalp to infection and irritation.
- Rinse thoroughly, then repeat the shampoo if the hair is very oily or product-laden.
- Condition if needed, then rinse.
- Towel-dry by blotting and squeezing. Do not rub roughly, especially on curly or fragile hair.
- Clean the bowl, put soiled linens in a closed container, and disinfect the shampoo bowl and the comb used.
Warning
Posture and safety: avoid hyperextending the client's neck at a back-bowl, and support the head when you lift it. Keep water away from electrical cords and appliances.
Choosing Shampoo and Conditioner
| Product | Purpose | Best for |
|---|---|---|
| pH-balanced (acid-balanced) shampoo | Gentle cleansing that helps keep the cuticle closed | Most hair, including color-treated hair |
| Clarifying shampoo | Removes heavy buildup and mineral or chlorine residue | Occasional use; can be drying |
| Moisturizing or conditioning shampoo | Cleanses while depositing humectants or emollients | Dry, coarse or curly hair |
| Medicated shampoo | An over-the-counter drug for dandruff or scalp conditions (for example pyrithione zinc, selenium sulfide or ketoconazole) | Dandruff and seborrheic scalp; follow the label contact time |
| Dry (powder) shampoo | Absorbs oil without water | Clients who cannot have a wet shampoo |
| Instant (rinse-out) conditioner | Smooths the cuticle; detangles | After most shampoos |
| Leave-in conditioner | Ongoing moisture and protection from heat | Curly, coarse or dry hair |
| Deep (treatment) conditioner | Longer contact time, sometimes with heat, to restore moisture or protein | Chemically or heat-damaged hair |
| Protein conditioner | Temporarily strengthens damaged hair | Weak, overly porous hair with poor elasticity |
Scalp Treatments
A scalp treatment combines products, scalp manipulations and sometimes heat, steam or high-frequency current (Section 5.5) to keep the scalp healthy. Choose the treatment from your scalp analysis (Section 4.3).
| Treatment | Indication | Typical approach |
|---|---|---|
| Normal scalp treatment | Maintenance | Brief brushing (where appropriate), shampoo, scalp manipulations, tonic |
| Dry scalp treatment | Tight, flaky scalp with too little oil (asteatosis) | Gentle shampoo; moisturizing scalp cream or oil; manipulations; warm towels or steamer |
| Oily scalp treatment | Excess oil (seborrhea) | Thorough cleansing; astringent scalp tonic; brisk manipulations |
| Dandruff treatment | Flaking (pityriasis) | Medicated shampoo with the full label contact time; anti-dandruff tonic; refer persistent or inflamed cases |
| Hair-loss (alopecia) scalp care | Thinning without inflammation | Stimulating manipulations and scalp tonics to support circulation; refer for medical options (Section 4.5) |
Scalp manipulations use the same massage movements described in Section 9.4. The most common are effleurage, petrissage, friction, tapotement and vibration. Movements are slow and rhythmic, with firm pressure that moves the scalp over the skull rather than sliding over the hair.
Do not perform scalp treatments or vigorous manipulations over abrasions, inflammation or signs of contagious disease, or right before a chemical service. Brushing the hair or scalp before a chemical service is also avoided, because it can irritate the scalp.
Under 18VAC41-20-270, what must be in place whenever a haircloth (cape) is used on a client in Virginia?
A clean towel or neck strip around the client's neck so the cape does not touch the skin
A plastic cape that has been sterilized in an autoclave
A cape that is laundered only once per day
Nothing, as long as the cape is disinfected between clients
How should the barber manipulate the scalp during a shampoo?
With the fingernails, scratching to loosen scales
With the cushions of the fingertips in small, firm, circular movements
With a stiff brush pressed hard against the scalp
With the palms only, sliding over the surface of the hair
Which draping method should be used before applying a hair color (tint)?
Neck strip and cutting cape only
No drape, because tints do not drip
A towel under the cape, a waterproof cape, and a second towel over the cape
A cloth haircutting cape placed directly against the skin
Sections you finish are checked off in the contents.