5.3 Skin Lesions, Non-Contagious Skin Disorders, Pigmentation Changes and Skin Cancer Warning Signs

Key Takeaways

  • Primary skin lesions are the first signs of a condition (macule, papule, vesicle, bulla, pustule, wheal, nodule, tumor, cyst); secondary lesions develop later (scale, crust, excoriation, fissure, ulcer, scar, keloid).

  • A macule is a flat spot, a papule is a small raised bump without fluid, a vesicle is a small blister of clear fluid, and a pustule is a raised lesion containing pus.

  • Acne, rosacea, eczema, psoriasis and contact dermatitis are not contagious, but inflamed or broken skin is still a reason to modify or postpone shaving and facial services.

  • Basal cell carcinoma is the most common skin cancer, squamous cell carcinoma is the second most common, and melanoma is the most dangerous.

  • The ABCDE warning signs for melanoma are Asymmetry, irregular Border, uneven Color, Diameter larger than about 6 mm and Evolving size, shape or color.

Last updated: October 2026

Why Lesions and Disorders Are Tested

The NIC Barber 1 outline asks you to identify signs and symptoms of conditions, disorders and diseases related to skin, with their types and treatments, and to recognize contraindications before facial hair and skin care services. Contagious infections (tinea, impetigo, herpes, folliculitis) are covered in Section 4.4. This section covers the vocabulary of lesions and the common non-contagious conditions. A barber identifies and describes what they see, adjusts or postpones the service, and refers the client. Diagnosis and treatment belong to physicians.


Primary Lesions

These are the first lesions to appear.

LesionWhat it looks likeExample
MaculeFlat, discolored spot, neither raised nor sunkenFreckle, flat age spot
PapuleSmall, solid, raised bump with no fluidInflamed acne bump without a head
VesicleSmall blister of clear fluid, under about 1 cmHerpes simplex (fever blister), poison ivy
BullaA larger blisterA burn blister
PustuleRaised lesion containing pusAcne pustule, folliculitis
WhealItchy, swollen, short-lived weltHives (urticaria), insect bite
Nodule or tubercleSolid, raised lump that extends deeper than a papuleCystic acne nodule
TumorAbnormal mass that varies in size, shape and colorAny growth that needs medical evaluation
CystClosed, fluid- or semi-solid-filled sac above or below the skinSebaceous cyst (steatoma)

Secondary Lesions

These develop in later stages.

LesionWhat it looks like
ScaleFlakes of dead skin (dandruff, psoriasis)
CrustDried serum, blood or pus (a scab; impetigo's honey-colored crust)
ExcoriationA scratch or abrasion, often from scratching or a razor scrape
FissureA crack in the skin (chapped lips, cracked hands)
UlcerAn open lesion that has lost skin depth; may weep
Scar (cicatrix)Mark left after healing
KeloidA thick, raised overgrowth of scar tissue that extends beyond the original wound. People prone to keloids, often with tightly curled beards, need extra care to avoid nicks and ingrown hairs on the neck

Disorders of the Sebaceous (Oil) Glands

  • Comedo (plural comedones). A follicle plugged with sebum and dead cells. An open comedo is a blackhead: the plug darkens on exposure to air, not because of dirt. A closed comedo is a whitehead.
  • Milia. Tiny, firm, white keratin cysts, often around the eyes and cheeks.
  • Acne vulgaris. Chronic inflammation of the oil glands with comedones, papules, pustules and sometimes nodules and cysts. Shave lightly over mild acne, never slice through raised lesions, and refer severe acne to a dermatologist.
  • Rosacea. Chronic redness of the central face with visible small blood vessels and sometimes papules, worsened by heat, alcohol and spicy food. Avoid hot towels and steam; use cool towels and gentle products.
  • Seborrhea (excessive oil) and asteatosis (too little oil, dry scaly skin). Steatoma is a sebaceous cyst.

Disorders of the Sudoriferous (Sweat) Glands

  • Anhidrosis: lack of sweating.
  • Hyperhidrosis: excessive sweating.
  • Bromhidrosis: foul-smelling sweat.
  • Miliaria rubra: prickly heat, a rash of small red bumps from blocked sweat ducts.

Inflammatory Conditions (Not Contagious)

ConditionSignsService decision
Contact dermatitisRed, itchy, sometimes blistering skin where a product touched it. Irritant type is caused by harsh chemicals; allergic type is caused by sensitivity, for example to a dye ingredientIdentify and avoid the product. A patch (predisposition) test before an aniline-derivative hair color, as the product label directs, reduces the risk
EczemaDry, itchy, inflamed patches that may weep or crustAvoid shaving or massaging over active, broken patches; use gentle, fragrance-free products
PsoriasisThick, red plaques with silvery-white scales, often on the scalp, elbows and kneesNot contagious. Cut and shampoo gently, and do not pick or scrape the scales. Avoid bleeding plaques
Seborrheic dermatitisGreasy, yellowish scaling and redness on the scalp, brows, beard and nasolabial foldsMedicated shampoo can help; refer persistent cases
Urticaria (hives)Wheals, often allergicStop any product that may have triggered it

Pigmentation and Growth Changes

  • Hyperpigmentation (too much pigment): lentigines (freckles), chloasma or melasma (patchy brown areas, often hormonal), and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (darkening after acne or razor bumps, common in deeper skin tones).
  • Hypopigmentation (too little pigment): vitiligo (milky-white patches from loss of melanocytes), albinism (congenital lack of melanin, very sun-sensitive skin) and leukoderma (light patches in general).
  • Growths: a nevus is a birthmark or mole; a skin tag is a small flap of skin; a keratoma is a callus-like thickening; a verruca is a wart (viral, so contagious). Never shave over raised moles, tags or warts. Stretch the skin and work around them.

Skin Cancer: Recognize and Refer

TypeTypical appearanceKey fact
Basal cell carcinomaPearly or waxy bump, sometimes with visible blood vessels, or a sore that won't healMost common; rarely spreads
Squamous cell carcinomaScaly red patch, crusted or raised growth, often on sun-exposed skin such as the scalp, ears and neckSecond most common; can spread
Malignant melanomaA dark, irregular, changing mole or spotMost dangerous; can spread quickly

Barbers see the scalp, the back of the neck and the tops of the ears, which clients cannot see themselves. Use the ABCDE checklist:

  • Asymmetry: one half does not match the other.
  • Border: irregular, ragged or blurred edges.
  • Color: uneven shades of brown, black, red, white or blue.
  • Diameter: larger than about 6 mm (a pencil eraser).
  • Evolving: changing in size, shape or color, or starting to bleed or itch.

If you notice a lesion with these signs, say so privately and suggest the client have a dermatologist look at it. Do not name a disease.

Test Your Knowledge

During a beard consultation, a barber sees a small, raised bump on the client's cheek that contains pus. What is this primary lesion called?

A

Macule

B

Pustule

C

Vesicle

D

Wheal

Test Your Knowledge

A client with central-face redness and visible small blood vessels says his face flushes with heat and spicy food. Which service modification is most appropriate?

A

Use extra-hot steam towels to open the pores

B

Apply an alcohol-based astringent immediately after shaving

C

Skip warm towels and steam, and use cool towels and gentle, fragrance-free products

D

Refuse all services because the condition is highly contagious

Test Your Knowledge

While cutting, a barber notices a mole on the back of a client's neck with uneven color, a ragged edge and a diameter larger than a pencil eraser. What should the barber do?

A

Privately mention the spot and suggest the client have a dermatologist examine it, without naming a disease

B

Shave the mole off with the straight razor so it can heal flat

C

Tell the client the spot is definitely melanoma

D

Ignore it, because barbers have no role in noticing skin changes

Sections you finish are checked off in the contents.