6.3 Manicuring, Pedicuring, and Massage

6.3 Manicuring, Pedicuring, and Massage

Professional manicuring and pedicuring services are fundamental to cosmetology. To perform these services safely, cosmetologists must understand the tools, equipment, step-by-step procedures, massage techniques, and the strict sanitation standards mandated by the Florida Department of Business and Professional Regulation (DBPR).

Manicure Equipment, Implements, and Materials

Nail care items are categorized into equipment, multi-use implements, single-use implements, and materials.

Equipment

Equipment includes permanent items that are not routinely changed during a service:

• Manicure Table: Typically includes drawers for storage and an adjustable lamp.
• Cosmetologist and Client Chairs: Must be ergonomic and comfortable.
• Disinfection Container: A container large enough to completely submerge all multi-use implements in an EPA-registered, hospital-grade disinfectant solution.
• Nail Dryer: An electric machine used to dry nail polish quickly.

Implements

Implements are hand-held tools used to perform services. They are either multi-use (reusable) or single-use (disposable):

• Multi-use Implements (Stainless Steel): Must be cleaned and disinfected after every client. These include metal pushers (used to gently scrape cuticle tissue from the nail plate), cuticle nippers (used to trim dead skin and hangnails), nail clippers (used to shorten the free edge), and tweezers (used to lift small bits of debris).
• Single-use Implements (Disposable): Must be discarded after one use. These include wooden pushers (orange wood sticks), emery boards (nail files with different grits), nail brushes (used to clean nail surfaces), and buffer blocks.

Materials and Cosmetics

Materials are disposable supplies used during a service (e.g., cotton balls, gauze, paper towels). Cosmetics include cuticle removers (typically containing 2% to 5% sodium or potassium hydroxide to dissolve dead cuticle tissue), nail oils and creams (to rehydrate tissues), base coat (protects the plate from staining), nail lacquer (color), and top coat (prevents chipping).

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Step-by-Step Basic Manicure Procedure

A standard basic manicure follows a precise sequence to ensure safety and aesthetic quality:

1. Sanitize: Both the cosmetologist and client must sanitize their hands.
2. Remove Polish: Use an acetone or non-acetone polish remover on a cotton pad to remove existing nail lacquer.
3. File and Shape: File the nails from the outer edge toward the center using a file held at a 45-degree angle. Never saw back and forth, as this causes splitting.
4. Soak: Place the client's fingers in a fingerbowl containing warm water and liquid soap for 3 to 5 minutes to soften the cuticles.
5. Apply Cuticle Remover: Apply a cuticle-dissolving cream or gel and allow it to sit for 1 to 2 minutes.
6. Push and Trim Cuticles: Gently push back the dead cuticle tissue using a metal or wooden pusher. Use cuticle nippers to trim only loose, dead skin. Never cut living skin.
7. Clean Under Free Edge: Use a wooden pusher wrapped in cotton to clean under the nail's free edge.
8. Buff: If needed, use a high-grit buffer block to smooth minor ridges.
9. Massage: Apply lotion or oil and perform a relaxing hand and arm massage.
10. Cleanse Nail Plate: Wipe the nail plate with alcohol or polish remover to remove all oils and lotion, ensuring proper polish adhesion.
11. Apply Polish: Apply one layer of base coat, two thin layers of nail color, and one layer of top coat.

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Pedicure Procedures and Toenail Care

Pedicures require specialized attention to the feet, skin, and nails. Due to the weight-bearing nature of feet, cosmetologists must follow specific safety practices.

Toenail Trimming Rule

Toenails must be trimmed straight across and slightly rounded at the corners.

[!WARNING] Never cut down the sides or round the corners of toenails. Cutting toenails into a curved shape or digging into the corners can cause the nail to grow into the surrounding tissue, leading to painful onychocryptosis (ingrown toenails) and subsequent infection.

Prohibited Implements in Florida

Under Florida law, cosmetologists are strictly prohibited from using razor-type callus shavers (often called credo blades) or any other sharp tool designed to cut or shave calluses from the feet. Only files, foot files, or paddles may be used to smooth and reduce calluses. Shaving calluses is considered a medical procedure and falls outside the scope of a cosmetology license.

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Florida DBPR Foot Basin Sanitation Requirements

Fungi and bacteria thrive in foot basins. To prevent serious infections, Florida cosmetologists must clean and disinfect all foot spas and basins in strict compliance with DBPR Rule 61G5-20.002.

Cleaning After Each Client

1. Drain all water and remove any debris from the basin.
2. Scrub the basin walls and components with a clean brush and surfactant soap and water.
3. Rinse with clean water.
4. Disinfect by filling the basin with clean water and adding an EPA-registered, hospital-grade liquid disinfectant. The solution must circulate for at least 10 minutes (or according to manufacturer instructions).
5. Drain, rinse, and wipe dry with a clean towel.

Recording Sanitation

Salons must maintain a written sanitation logbook recording the date and time of every foot basin cleaning and disinfection, signed by the performing cosmetologist. This log must be kept on the salon premises and be readily available for DBPR inspectors.

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Massage for Hands, Arms, Feet, and Legs

Massage is an essential component of nail services that stimulates blood circulation, relaxes muscles, and hydrates skin.

Massage Movements

• Effleurage: Long, smooth, gliding strokes. Always begin and end the massage with this movement to relax the client.
• Petrissage: Kneading, squeezing, and pinching movements. It provides deeper stimulation to the muscles.
• Friction: Circular rubbing movements that apply pressure to deeper tissues, typically around joints.

Contraindications for Massage

A contraindication is a medical condition that makes a specific treatment unsafe. Cosmetologists must not perform massage on clients who have:

• Severe high blood pressure or heart conditions.
• A history of strokes.
• Diabetes or poor circulatory conditions (especially on the legs and feet, where deep pressure can dislodge clots).
• Varicose veins, open wounds, or active skin infections.