3.3 Wet Styling, Thermal Styling, and Roller Sets

3.3 Wet Styling, Thermal Styling, and Roller Sets

Hair styling is the art of shaping and directing hair into temporary patterns using physical manipulation, wet setting, or thermal tools. A cosmetologist must understand the mechanical principles of hair elasticity, base control, and thermal protection to achieve long-lasting styles without damaging the hair shaft.

Roller Sets: Base Placement and Volume Control

Roller sets are a foundation of wet styling. The amount of volume, lift, and curl achieved is determined by the base control (how the roller sits in relation to its panel of hair) and the size of the roller. A panel of hair is the section of hair on which the roller is placed; it must be equal to the length and width of the roller.

1. On-Base Placement (Full Base)

• Position: The roller sits directly on its base. The hair is combed and held at an angle of 125 degrees (slightly forward, beyond perpendicular) from the head and rolled down.
• Result: Maximum volume and lift at the scalp.
• Tension: High tension is required, but must not pull the scalp painfully.

2. Half-Base Placement

• Position: The roller sits halfway on and halfway off its base. The hair is combed and held at a 90-degree angle (perpendicular) from the head and rolled down.
• Result: Medium volume and lift, providing a natural-looking bounce.

3. Off-Base Placement

• Position: The roller sits completely off its base. The hair is combed and held at a 45-degree angle (downward) from the head and rolled down.
• Result: Least amount of volume and lift at the scalp, with curl concentrated at the ends.

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Pin Curls: Structure and Mobility

Pin curls serve as another fundamental wet styling technique. They consist of three main parts: the base (the stationary foundation attached to the scalp), the stem (the section of hair between the base and the first turn of the roller or curl, which gives the curl its direction and mobility), and the circle (the hair that forms the curl).

Pin Curl Stem Types and Mobility

The length of the stem determines the mobility or movement of the curl:

Types of Pin Curls

• Flat Pin Curls: The curl is pinned flat against the scalp, creating smooth waves and uniform curls.
• Stand-Up Pin Curls (Cascade Curls): The curl is pinned standing up from the head to create height and volume in the hair design.
• Shaping: A shaping is a section of hair molded in a circular movement in preparation for the formation of curls. Shapings are either clockwise or counter-clockwise. Always begin pin curls at the open end of a shaping.
• Pinning Technique: The clip must be inserted through the circle at an angle, ensuring it does not press into the scalp. The open end of the clip should point away from the face. Avoid using bent clips, as they can crimp the hair.

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Thermal Styling: Blowdryers, Flat Irons, and Curling Irons

Thermal styling involves using heat to temporarily alter the hair's hydrogen bonds, allowing it to be reshaped.

1. Blowdryer Attachments and Use

• Concentrator: A directional nozzle that directs the airflow to specific sections of hair. Essential for smoothing and straightening hair.
• Diffuser: An attachment that disperses airflow softly and evenly, minimizing frizz while preserving natural curl patterns.

2. Thermal Irons (Flat Irons and Curling Irons)

Thermal irons must be used with caution to prevent heat damage or hair breakage.

• Heat Settings: High heat should never be used on fine, lightened, or chemically treated hair. Coarse, thick hair requires higher temperatures to reshape.
• Testing the Temperature: Before applying a hot iron to a client's hair, always test the heat on an end paper or white paper towel. Hold the hot iron on the paper for 5 seconds. If the paper scorches or turns brown, the iron is too hot and must be cooled down before use. This is a critical safety step emphasized in the Florida Cosmetology Exam.
• Thermal Protection: A heat-protectant spray or serum must be applied to the hair prior to using any thermal iron to coat the hair shaft and minimize thermal moisture loss.
• Marcel Irons: Professional styling often utilizes the Marcel iron, which features a manually controlled shell handle and wand, allowing the stylist to control the rotation and tension with the fingers. Spring irons, which use a spring-loaded clamp, are more common for retail or quick styling.
• Chemical Changes in Styling: Temporary styling (both wet sets and thermal styling) alters the hair's physical hydrogen bonds. These weak bonds are broken by water (during a wet set) or heat (during thermal styling) and reform as the hair dries or cools in its new shape. Because hydrogen bonds are easily broken by water, high humidity or rain will cause temporarily styled or pressed hair to revert back to its natural state.

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Hair Pressing: Soft, Medium, and Hard Press

Hair pressing is a method of temporarily straightening extremely curly or coily hair using a heated pressing comb. It is categorized by the degree of straightening achieved:

1. Soft Press

• Procedure: Removes 50 to 60 percent of the curl.
• Application: The heated pressing comb is applied once to each side of the hair section.
• Usage: Best for fine hair or clients who want a light straightening effect without flattening the hair.

2. Medium Press

• Procedure: Removes 60 to 75 percent of the curl.
• Application: The heated pressing comb is applied once to each side of the hair section, using slightly more pressure than a soft press.
• Usage: Suitable for medium-textured hair.

3. Hard Press (Double Press)

• Procedure: Removes 100 percent of the curl.
• Application: The heated pressing comb is applied twice to each side of the hair section. A hard press can also be achieved by performing a soft press first, followed by running a hot flat iron over the hair sections.
• Usage: Used for coarse, resistant hair. Extreme care must be taken to avoid burning the scalp or hair shaft.

Safety Precautions for Hair Pressing

• Never press hair that has been treated with chemical relaxers unless the new growth has grown out at least 2 inches.
• Avoid excessive heat near the scalp. Keep the pressing comb teeth pointing away from the scalp.
• If a scalp burn occurs during a press, apply cold water or a burn gel immediately to soothe the skin.