3.3 Hair & Skin Disorders, Diseases & Analysis

Hair & Skin Disorders, Diseases & Analysis

Barbers must be able to recognize common hair and skin disorders, identify contagious diseases, and perform systematic hair analyses. This knowledge protects both the client and the barber from infection, ensures appropriate chemical selections, and guides recommendations for proper hair and scalp care.

Hair Loss Conditions

Hair loss, or alopecia, can be caused by genetics, hormonal changes, autoimmune responses, or lifestyle factors. The three most common forms encountered in the barbershop are:

• Androgenic alopecia: Commonly known as male or female pattern baldness. It is caused by a genetic predisposition combined with sensitivity to dihydrotestosterone (DHT), a hormone that causes terminal hair follicles to shrink. Over time, terminal hairs undergo miniaturization, transforming into fine, short vellus hairs. In men, this typically presents as a receding hairline and thinning at the crown. In women, it manifests as diffuse thinning across the top of the scalp.
• Alopecia areata: An autoimmune disorder where the body's immune system mistakenly attacks the hair follicles. It is characterized by sudden hair loss in round, smooth patches. It can progress to complete scalp hair loss (alopecia totalis) or complete body hair loss (alopecia universalis).
• Postpartum alopecia: A temporary hair loss experienced by women after childbirth. During pregnancy, elevated estrogen levels keep hair in the growth phase longer than normal. After delivery, hormone levels drop rapidly, causing a large percentage of hair to enter the telogen (resting) phase simultaneously, resulting in significant shedding. Hair growth typically normalizes within a year.

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Scalp Disorders and Parasitic Infestations

Several scalp disorders require careful identification. Some are inflammatory, while others are highly contagious parasitic or fungal infestations.

Pityriasis (Dandruff)

Dandruff is characterized by the excessive shedding of dead skin cells from the scalp, driven by the overgrowth of a microscopic fungus called Malassezia.

• Pityriasis capitis simplex: Dry dandruff, marked by itchy scalp and small, thin, translucent scales that shed easily onto clothing.
• Pityriasis steatoides: Oily or greasy dandruff, characterized by an accumulation of waxy scales mixed with sebum, which form greasy crusts on the scalp.

Contagious Infestations

• Tinea capitis: A fungal infection of the scalp (ringworm) that presents as red papules, scaling, and brittle, broken hair at the scalp level. It is highly contagious.
• Pediculosis capitis: Head lice infestation. The lice themselves are difficult to see, but the barber will notice nits (white eggs) firmly glued to the hair shafts.
• Scabies: A highly contagious skin disease caused by the itch mite, which burrows under the skin to lay eggs, producing intense itching and fluid-filled lesions.

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Bacterial Infections of the Skin and Scalp

Bacterial infections are typically caused by Staphylococcus bacteria and are easily transmitted in a barbershop if proper sanitation protocols are not followed.

• Sycosis vulgaris: Commonly called barber's itch, this is a chronic bacterial infection of the hair follicles in the beard area. It presents as inflamed, painful pustules around the hairs. Shaving over this condition is strictly prohibited as it spreads the bacteria across the face.
• Furuncle: Commonly known as a boil, this is an acute, localized bacterial infection of a hair follicle that causes constant, throbbing pain. It presents as a firm, red, pus-filled nodule.
• Carbuncle: A larger, deeper bacterial infection formed by an inflammation of a cluster of interconnected furuncles. It has multiple drainage points and requires immediate medical attention.

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The Crucial Hair Analysis Characteristics

To perform chemical services (like coloring, waving, or relaxing) safely, a barber must analyze four essential characteristics of the hair: texture, porosity, elasticity, and density.

Texture

Hair texture refers to the diameter of an individual hair strand. It is classified as:

• Coarse: Large diameter; has a thicker cuticle layer and requires stronger chemical solutions or longer processing times.
• Medium: Average diameter; the standard standard for processing.
• Fine: Small diameter; has a thin cuticle and is highly susceptible to chemical damage and breakage.

Porosity

Porosity is the hair's ability to absorb moisture. It directly correlates to the condition of the cuticle layer:

• Low porosity: The cuticle scales lie flat and tight. The hair resists moisture absorption and requires alkaline solutions to open the cuticle.
• Average porosity: Normal cuticle structure; absorbs and retains moisture predictably.
• High porosity: The cuticle is raised, damaged, or missing. The hair absorbs moisture quickly but loses it just as fast. It is highly susceptible to chemical damage and requires mild, low-pH products.

Elasticity

Elasticity is the hair's ability to stretch and return to its original length without breaking. It indicates the strength of the side bonds in the cortex:

• Normal elasticity: Wet hair can stretch up to 50 percent of its length (dry hair up to 20 percent) and return without breaking.
• Low elasticity: The hair is brittle and snaps easily when stretched. Chemical services must not be performed on hair with low elasticity, as it will likely disintegrate during processing.

Density

Density is the number of individual hair strands per square inch of scalp. It is classified as thin (low density), medium, or thick (high density). Density determines the amount of product needed and the size of subsections used during haircutting or chemical services.