Cheat sheet

California Barber License Exam Cheat Sheet

CA Law & Licensing

Not publishedof exam

SB 803 ChangesBBC RulesBreEZe PortalLicense RenewalEligibility

Safety & Infection Control

29%of exam

16 CCR RulesEPA DisinfectantsBloodborne PathogensOSHA & SDSHand Hygiene

Client Consultation

2%of exam

Intake FormRelease FormContraindicationsRefusal Conditions

Hair, Scalp & Skin Analysis

11%of exam

Hair StructureGrowth CycleScalp DisordersSkin Disorders

Hairstyling

5%of exam

Blow-Dry ToolsThermal IronsHeat PrecautionsStyling Technique

Haircutting

9%of exam

RazorsShearsTrimmers/EdgersClippersElevation

Chemical Services

18%of exam

RelaxerspH & BondsDeveloper VolumePatch/Strand Tests

Shaving

24%of exam

7 Positions4 StrokesHoning/StroppingPseudofolliculitis

Skin Care

2%of exam

Skin AnalysisFacialsMassageTool Safety

Quick Facts

Exam
CA Barber Written (PSI)
Regulator
CA Board of Barbering/Cosmetology (BBC)
Questions
95 (85 scored, 10 pretest)
Time Limit
120 minutes
Passing Score
64 of 85 (75%)
Scoring
Criterion-referenced
Training Hours
1,000 hours (post-SB 803)
Practical Exam
Eliminated January 1, 2022
Languages
English, Spanish, Korean, Vietnamese, Chinese
License Renewal
Every 2 years, $50

Employee vs. Independent Contractor

Employee

  • Employer withholds payroll taxes
  • Receives a W-2 form

Contractor (Booth Renter)

  • Pays self-employment taxes
  • Receives a 1099-NEC form

Classification affects taxes and control

CA Barber Licensing Facts

BBC
Licenses barbers under DCA
Training hours
1,000 at approved school
Apprenticeship option
Shelley-Maloney Act path
Min age
17 years old
Min education
10th grade or equivalent
Application fee
$125 via BreEZe
Processing time
8-12 weeks typical

SB 803 (2022) Changes

Effective date
January 1, 2022
Hours reduced
1,500 down to 1,000
Practical exam
Eliminated entirely
1,600-hour schools
Must disclose extra hours optional
Retake wait
None required

License Renewal Facts

Renewal cycle
Every 2 years
Renewal fee
$50
CE requirement
None required
Payment method
Online via BreEZe
Re-exam fee
$125 per attempt

Tool Disinfection Steps

Remove debris, wash, dry, then fully immerse

Remove debrisWash with soapDry the toolImmerse in disinfectant

Disinfecting Shears vs. Other Tools

Shears

  • Spray or wipe only
  • Never fully immersed

Other Non-Electrical Tools

  • Fully immersed required
  • Removed with gloves or tongs

Shears are the immersion exception

Which Disinfection Method?

  1. Non-electrical tool usedWash, then fully immerse(EPA-registered disinfectant)
  2. Shears after useSpray or wipe disinfect(Never immerse shears)
  3. Electric clippersBrush hair, spray disinfect(Never submerge in liquid)
  4. Item cannot be disinfectedDiscard after one use(Buffers, sponges, wax sticks)
  5. Tool contacted bloodDisinfect or discard tool(Before resuming service)

Disinfection Fundamentals

Sanitation
Reduces germ numbers
Disinfection
Destroys most pathogens
Sterilization
Destroys all microbial life
Contact time
Full label wet-time
Solution change
Daily, or if contaminated
Debris removal
First step, before disinfecting

16 CCR Tool Disinfection Rules

EPA-registered
Bactericidal, fungicidal, virucidal
Non-electrical tools
Fully immersed before use
Shears exception
Sprayed or wiped only
Removing tools
Gloves or tongs, never hands
Clean storage
Covered, labeled Clean/Disinfected
Soiled storage
Labeled Dirty/Soiled/Contaminated
Single-use items
Discarded after one client

Bloodborne Exposure Response

Step 1
Stop the service immediately
Step 2
Put on clean gloves
Step 3
Clean wound with antiseptic
Step 4
Bandage the wound
Sharps disposal
Puncture-resistant labeled container
HBV vaccine
Employer must offer it

Regulatory Agencies & Hygiene

BBC
Licensing and inspections
OSHA
Workplace safety standards
EPA
Registers disinfectants under FIFRA
SDS
Chemical hazard document, OSHA-required
Hand wash
At least 20 seconds

Serve or Refuse the Client?

  1. Ringworm or lice visibleRefuse service(Contagious, refer to physician)
  2. Psoriasis or eczema presentProceed with service(Non-contagious conditions)
  3. Open sore or fresh cutRefuse until healed(Infection risk)
  4. Alopecia areata presentProceed with service(Autoimmune, not contagious)
  5. Condition looks unclearDecline, refer physician(When in doubt)

Consultation & Refusal Rules

Intake form
Records client health history
Release form
Documents informed consent
Contraindication
Condition barring the service
Refuse & refer
Suspected contagious condition
Neck strip
Barrier between cape, skin

Hair Layer Order Mnemonic

Cuticle protects, cortex colors, medulla is the core

Cuticle = outer shieldCortex = color and strengthMedulla = innermost core

Hair Structure & Growth Cycle

Cuticle
Outer protective scale layer
Cortex
Pigment, strength, elasticity layer
Medulla
Innermost, sometimes absent layer
Keratin
Main structural hair protein
Anagen
Active growth phase
Catagen
Brief transition phase
Telogen
Resting, pre-shed phase

Hair Growth Cycle Mnemonic

Anagen grows, catagen transitions, telogen rests

Anagen = active growthCatagen = brief transitionTelogen = resting shed phase

Scalp & Skin Disorders

Alopecia
General term for hair loss
Alopecia areata
Autoimmune, smooth round patches
Tinea capitis
Contagious fungal ringworm, refuse
Pediculosis capitis
Head lice, contagious, refuse
Psoriasis
Silvery scaled patches, non-contagious
Eczema
Itchy inflamed skin, non-contagious

Hairstyling Heat & Tools

Round brush
Adds curl and volume
Paddle brush
Smooths for straight finish
Diffuser
Spreads airflow, reduces frizz
Heat protectant
Coats hair before thermal styling
Fine hair heat
About 250-300 degrees F
Coarse hair heat
Up to about 400 degrees F

Fade vs. Taper

Fade

  • Skin-close at the bottom
  • Blends with no visible line

Taper

  • Gradual, less extreme blend
  • Less overall contrast

A fade is an extreme taper

Haircutting Tools & Guards

Razor
Closest cut, highest nick risk
Shears
Precise blending and shaping
Trimmers/edgers
Fine outlining of hairlines
Clippers
Fast bulk cutting with guards
Guard numbers
Lower number, shorter length
Blade gap
About 1/16 inch offset

Haircutting Technique Terms

Guideline
First section sets length
Elevation
Angle hair held from head
0-degree elevation
Blunt, one-length cut
90-degree elevation
Uniform layers result
Point cutting
Shear tips create texture
Cross-checking
Comb opposite section direction

Hydroxide vs. Thio Relaxer

Hydroxide

  • High pH, 10-14
  • Fast processing time
  • Strict base protection needed

Thio

  • Lower pH, 9-10
  • Gentler on the hair
  • Needs separate neutralizer step

Match relaxer strength to sensitivity

Which Relaxer or Wave?

  1. Fast strong straightening neededSodium hydroxide relaxer(High pH, 10-14)
  2. Gentler process acceptableThio relaxer(Needs separate neutralizer)
  3. Firm curl, faster processAlkaline cold wave(Higher pH, more damage)
  4. Looser curl, less damageAcid-balanced wave(Slower, often needs heat)
  5. Prior metallic dye usedRun a strand test(Risk of breakage)

pH & Hair Bond Chemistry

pH scale
0 to 14, 7 neutral
Healthy hair/skin pH
About 4.5 to 5.5
Hydrogen bonds
Broken by water, heat
Disulfide bonds
Broken only by chemicals
Alkaline effect
Swells, opens the cuticle

Alkaline vs. Acid Wave

Alkaline (Cold)

  • Higher pH, faster process
  • Firmer curl result

Acid-Balanced

  • Lower pH, slower process
  • Gentler, less hair damage

Firmer curl trades off damage

Chemical Service Testing & Prep

Patch test
Checks allergy, 24-48 hours prior
Strand test
Checks processing time, result
Base cream
Protects scalp before relaxer
Metallic dye risk
Can cause breakage, discoloration
10-20 volume developer
Deposits color, minimal lift
30-40 volume developer
Lightens hair more
Neutralizer
Stops action, re-hardens bonds

7 Shave Position Sequence

Right side, right neck, chin, left neck, left, lip, front

Right sideRight neckUnder chinLeft neckLeft sideMustache/lipChin/front neck

Honing vs. Stropping

Honing

  • Sharpens a dull edge
  • Uses a hone stone
  • Done infrequently

Stropping

  • Aligns and polishes edge
  • Uses a leather strop
  • Done before every client

Hone rarely, strop every use

Which Shave Stroke to Use?

  1. Cheek or jaw, with grainFreehand stroke(Standard cutting position)
  2. Opposite growth direction areaBackhand stroke(Razor turned around)
  3. Upper lip or chinReverse freehand stroke(Edge faces upward)
  4. Under jaw or neckReverse backhand stroke(Reverse plus backhand)
  5. Razor feels dullHone the blade(Stropping alone won't fix it)

Shaving Prep & Strokes

Hot towel
Pre-softens beard, opens pores
First pass
With the grain, less irritation
Freehand stroke
Standard cutting position
Backhand stroke
Razor turned, opposite direction
Reverse freehand
Edge faces upward
Reverse backhand
Reverse plus turned position

4 Shave Stroke Directions

Freehand, backhand, reverse freehand, reverse backhand

Freehand = standard positionBackhand = turned aroundReverse freehand = edge upReverse backhand = up and turned

Straight Razor vs. Shavette

Straight Razor

  • Fixed blade, closest shave
  • Needs honing and stropping

Shavette

  • Replaceable disposable blade
  • Fresh edge per client

Both discard blades after one client

Razor Care & Post-Shave

Honing
Sharpens a dull blade edge
Stropping
Aligns edge, done each client
Razor angle
About 30 degrees to skin
Shavette
Disposable blade, no honing
Pseudofolliculitis barbae
Curly hair curves into skin
Post-shave
Cool towel, then astringent

Facial & Skin Care Terms

Skin analysis
Identifies type and conditions
Extraction
Removes debris from clogged pores
Astringent
Tightens pores after extraction
Effleurage
Light gliding massage stroke
Comedone
Clogged pore, blackhead/whitehead

Common Traps

Shears Fully Immersed

Wrong, spray or wipe only Immersion can damage the hinge

CE Credits Required to Renew

Wrong, CA needs none Just pay $50 every 2 years

Practical Exam Still Required

Wrong since January 2022 Written PSI exam only now

Stropping Sharpens the Blade

Wrong, stropping only aligns Honing is what sharpens

1,500 Hours Still Required

Wrong after SB 803 Now only 1,000 hours

Any Disinfectant Solution Works

Wrong, must be EPA-registered Needs bactericidal/fungicidal/virucidal claims

Mandatory Wait to Retake

Wrong, no CA waiting period Reapply anytime with $125 fee

Barber Equals Cosmetology License

Wrong, CA licenses separately Different scope, same regulating board

Last Minute

  1. 1.Passing score: 64 correct of 85
  2. 2.Exam has 95 questions, 120 minutes
  3. 3.Shears: spray or wipe, never immerse
  4. 4.SB 803 requires 1,000 training hours
  5. 5.No continuing education needed to renew
  6. 6.License renews every 2 years, $50
  7. 7.No mandatory wait to retake exam
  8. 8.Healthy hair/skin pH is 4.5-5.5
  9. 9.Razor angle is about 30 degrees
  10. 10.Strop every client, hone only rarely
  11. 11.Single-use items: discard after one client
  12. 12.Refuse service for ringworm or lice
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