5.2 Shampooing, Conditioning & Scalp Treatments

5.2 Shampooing, Conditioning & Scalp Treatments

Quick Answer: Shampooing cleanses the hair and scalp before every other service. Use warm (not hot) water, choose the shampoo for the client's hair and scalp condition, massage with the cushions of the fingers — never the nails — and follow with conditioner to close the cuticle.

Draping the Client

Proper draping protects the client and their clothing, and the method differs by service type. Always sanitize your hands and use a fresh cape for every client.

• Non-chemical services (haircutting, shampooing, styling): a neck strip or towel must be placed between the cape and the client's skin so the cape never touches the neck. The cape is fastened snugly — not tight enough to restrict breathing.
• Chemical services (haircolor, permanent wave, relaxer): two towels are used — one placed under the cape and one over the cape, secured so that if chemicals seep through the outer towel, the inner towel still protects the client's clothing. The cape is left open in the back or folded so it can be changed quickly if it becomes soiled.

The key exam distinction: neck strip/towel barrier for non-chemical services, double-towel protection for chemical services. The cape itself should never touch the client's skin in either case.

Water Temperature and Scalp Comfort

Water temperature matters more than most candidates expect:

• Warm water is used for shampooing — it opens the cuticle scales and helps the shampoo cleanse effectively.
• Hot water is never used: it strips away the hair's natural protective oil (sebum), irritates the scalp, and can scald the client. Test the temperature on your inner wrist before directing the spray at the client.
• Cool water is used to rinse after chemical services because it helps the cuticle close, sealing in the result.

Choosing the Right Shampoo

Shampoos are formulated for specific conditions, and selecting the wrong one is a common exam scenario:

An acid-balanced shampoo is formulated to the natural pH of hair and skin (4.5 to 5.5) and is safe for general and frequent use, including on color-treated hair. A plain shampoo carries a higher alkaline content, is intended for hair in good condition, and can fade artificial color. Strongly alkaline shampoos swell the hair shaft and strip color — avoid them on tinted or chemically relaxed hair.

Massage Manipulations During the Shampoo

Scalp massage stimulates circulation and relaxes the client. The four basic manipulations are:

• Effleurage — a light, continuous stroking movement applied with the palms and fingers in a slow, rhythmic manner. Used to begin and end a massage and to spread products. No pressure is used.
• Petrissage — a kneading movement: lifting, squeezing, and pressing the tissue with light, firm pressure. It stimulates circulation and glandular activity.
• Friction — a deep rubbing movement in which pressure is applied while moving over an underlying structure; a small circular friction is used on the scalp with the cushions of the fingertips.
• Tapotement — also called percussion: short, quick tapping, slapping, or hacking movements. It is the most stimulating manipulation and should be used sparingly and gently on the scalp.

Massage rules for the exam: always use the cushions (pads) of the fingertips, never the fingernails; keep movements slow and rhythmic; maintain continuous contact when changing positions; and direct movements from the insertion of the muscle toward its origin (toward the heart).

The Shampoo Procedure

1. Seat the client comfortably and drape for a non-chemical (wet) service.
2. Analyze the hair and scalp for abrasions or disorders — do not shampoo over open sores or inflamed scalp conditions; refer the client to a physician.
3. Brush the hair thoroughly to remove tangles and stimulate the scalp.
4. Saturate the hair with warm water, testing the temperature first.
5. Apply a small amount of the chosen shampoo and work it into a lather using the cushions of the fingers in a rotary (friction) motion, starting at the front hairline and working back.
6. Rinse thoroughly — shampoo residue left in the hair causes dullness and scalp irritation.
7. Repeat the lather if necessary (the second lather will form more quickly).
8. Apply conditioner after shampooing, distribute through the hair with the fingers or a wide-tooth comb, leave for the time specified by the manufacturer, then rinse.

Conditioners and Scalp Treatments

Shampoo is mildly alkaline and raises the cuticle; conditioner is acidic and smooths the cuticle back down, restores moisture, detangles, and returns hair toward its natural pH. Deep or treatment conditioners contain protein and penetrating moisturizers for chemically damaged hair and may require processing time under a cap.

Scalp treatments address specific conditions: a dry scalp treatment uses moisturizing preparations and steaming; an oily scalp treatment uses astringent-type preparations that absorb excess sebum; dandruff treatments use medicated products. Steaming — applying warm, moist towels or a steamer — softens the scalp, opens the follicles, and helps treatment products penetrate. Barbers treat common cosmetic conditions only; scalp disorders such as ringworm, pediculosis (lice), or inflamed sores are medical conditions and must never be treated in the shop — refer those clients to a physician.