5.1 Textured Hairstyling, Extensions, Locks, Braids, and Hairpieces

Why this topic matters

Domain III, Hairstyling, is 4 percent of the theory test. Its first two subtopics are procedures for textured hairstyling (hair extension application, maintenance, and removal; locking; braiding) and procedures for hair additions, replacements, and enhancements (hairpiece application, maintenance, and removal). These services are also barbering under Tennessee law. T.C.A. § 62-3-105 lists "hair weaving, excluding medical or surgical procedures" and "cutting, fitting, measuring and forming head caps for wigs or hair pieces." The Board's 1,500-hour curriculum includes hairpiece sales and service and hairpiece fitting.

Hair extensions

Hair extensions add length, volume, or color by attaching human or synthetic hair to the client's natural hair.

Human hair vs. synthetic hair

• Human hair can be heat-styled and chemically processed with care, and it wears like natural hair.
• Synthetic fiber keeps a set pattern and costs less, but many synthetics melt under hot tools and cannot be colored with hair dye.
• A strand test tells them apart. Human hair burns slowly with the smell of burning hair and leaves a powdery ash. Synthetic fiber flames or melts into a hard bead.

Consultation and maintenance

• Check the scalp for irritation, open sores, or thinning before attaching anything. Extensions add weight and tension to each follicle.
• Match the extension texture and color to the client's hair, and blend the finished style by cutting the extension hair together with the natural hair.
• Schedule maintenance appointments as the method requires. As natural hair grows, attachments move away from the scalp and can mat or pull.
• Tell clients to clean the scalp gently, dry the attachment area fully, and avoid sleeping on wet hair.

Locking

Locks (also spelled locs, or dreadlocks) are sections of hair that coil and mesh into matted strands. Common starting methods:

• Comb coils: small sections twisted into coils with a fine-tooth comb. Best for short, tightly curled hair.
• Two-strand twists: each section is twisted from two strands. They lock more slowly but look defined early.
• Braids or plaits: sections are braided and allowed to lock. The braid pattern may show for a while.
• Palm rolling: each lock is rolled between damp palms to encourage coiling and neaten new growth.
• Interlocking: new growth is pulled through the base of the lock with a tool or the fingers. This tightens the root without product buildup.
• Backcombing: used on straighter textures to start the matting.

Locks go through stages, from starter or budding, to a teen stage where they swell and frizz, to mature locks that are dense and hold their shape. For maintenance, use residue-free shampoo, rinse thoroughly, dry completely to prevent mildew and odor, avoid heavy waxes that build up, and do not retighten too often or too tightly. Thinning at the lock base or the hairline is a sign of too much tension or weight.

Braiding

• Three-strand braid: crossing the outer strands over the center makes an overhand braid that lies flat, as in a French braid. Crossing them under makes an underhand braid that stands up from the scalp, as in a Dutch braid or cornrow.
• Cornrows are narrow underhand braids worked close to the scalp in rows, often used as the foundation for a sew-in.
• Individual (box) braids are free-hanging braids from separate square or triangular partings, with or without added fiber.
• Twists (two-strand or rope twists) twist rather than braid the strands.

Safety rules for braiding

• Use clean, even partings and moderate tension.
• Tight braids cause pain, bumps, and pustules at the follicle and, over time, traction alopecia. The hairline and temples thin first.
• If the client feels pain or you see raised bumps or broken hair along the hairline, loosen or redo the style.
• Advise clients to wear braids for a limited time and give the hairline a rest between styles.

Hairpieces and hair replacement

Men's hairpieces (also called hair replacement systems or toupees) cover a thinning or balding area with a custom base holding human or synthetic hair.

Base materials

• Lace: very natural hairline but delicate
• Monofilament: durable mesh with a natural-looking part
• Polyurethane ("skin"): easy to clean and tape, less breathable

Hair is attached to the base by hand-tying (knotting, also called ventilating) or by machine-made wefts.

Measuring and fitting

• Measure from the front hairline to the nape, from ear to ear across the top, from temple to temple around the back, and across the crown.
• For a custom unit, make a template by covering the bald area with plastic wrap and clear tape and outlining it with a marker. The template gives the exact size and hairline.

Attaching

• Clean and dry the scalp so adhesives hold.
• Use double-sided tape, liquid adhesive, or clips. Clips need enough existing hair to hold them.
• Position the front hairline, press the unit down from front to back, then cut and blend the hairpiece hair into the client's own hair with shears, a razor, or thinning shears.

Maintaining and removing

• Remove the unit by dissolving the adhesive with the manufacturer's solvent or adhesive remover. Never pull the unit off, which can tear the base or skin.
• Clean the old adhesive off the base and the scalp. Check the scalp for irritation.
• Shampoo gently with the hair moving in one direction, with no rubbing. Use cool water and special shampoo for synthetic hair.
• Condition, blot, and air-dry on a block or form. Do not apply heat to synthetic fiber.
• Do not use chemical services on the attached unit unless the hair and base are rated for them. Patch-test adhesives on clients with sensitive skin.

Quick comparison