9.2 Skin Conditions, Disorders & Diseases
Key Takeaways
- Primary lesions (macule, papule, pustule, vesicle, nodule, wheal, tumor) are first changes; secondary lesions (crust, scale, fissure, ulcer, scar, excoriation) develop from primary lesions or external damage.
- Acne is graded by severity (comedones through cystic/nodular presentations); rosacea, dermatitis, eczema, and seborrheic dermatitis require modified or referred care—not aggressive “breakout” protocols.
- Hyperpigmentation includes melasma and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH); hypopigmentation includes loss or lightening of pigment—analysis documents color change without medical diagnosis.
- Contagious presentations such as impetigo, tinea (ringworm), active herpes lesions, and conjunctivitis are service stop signs in the treatment area—refuse, protect the room, and guide medical care.
- Use ABCDE awareness for suspicious pigmented lesions (asymmetry, border, color, diameter, evolving) to support referral—not to diagnose melanoma—and refer any lesion outside safe aesthetics judgment.
9.2 Skin Conditions, Disorders & Diseases
Quick answer: Learn primary vs secondary lesions, acne grades, rosacea, hyperpigmentation (melasma, PIH) and hypopigmentation, dermatitis/eczema/seborrheic dermatitis, and contagious stop signs (impetigo, tinea, herpes, conjunctivitis). Use ABCDE cues to refer suspicious lesions—you analyze and protect, you do not diagnose medical disease. Skin Analysis is about 13% of the PSI Massachusetts aesthetician theory exam.
Section 9.1 classified lasting type and UV response. This section covers what you see on the skin today: lesions, common disorders, pigment changes, and infectious red flags. The professional standard for a Massachusetts aesthetician is consistent: observe, document, choose safe service parameters, or stop and refer. PSI items reward that judgment, especially when a stem tempts you to “just wax over” an open sore or “extract” a suspicious growth.
Primary and Secondary Lesions (Overview)
A lesion is any mark, wound, or abnormality. Textbooks split lesions into primary (first visible change) and secondary (develop from primary lesions or from scratching, infection, or healing).
| Category | Examples (exam-level) | Plain meaning |
|---|---|---|
| Primary | Macule, papule, pustule, vesicle, bulla, nodule, tumor, wheal | New mark or raised/fluid-filled change on previously normal-appearing skin |
| Secondary | Crust, scale, fissure, excoriation, ulcer, scar, keloid (as taught) | Follows damage, healing, or evolution of a primary lesion |
High-yield definitions candidates should own:
- Macule — flat spot of color change (freckle-like teaching example); not raised.
- Papule — small, solid elevation (no visible pus).
- Pustule — raised lesion containing pus.
- Vesicle — small fluid-filled blister; bulla is larger.
- Nodule / tumor — deeper or larger solid growths (size thresholds vary by text; recognize “deeper/solid” vs surface pustule).
- Wheal — itchy, swollen elevation (hive-like).
- Crust — dried sebum, pus, or blood (scab-like).
- Scale — flaky epidermal cells.
- Fissure — crack in the skin.
- Excoriation — scratch or scrape of the epidermis.
- Ulcer — open lesion with loss of epidermis (and possibly dermis); not a casual facial extraction target.
- Scar — fibrous tissue after healing.
Exam logic: matching words to descriptions matters, but so does service decision. Vesicles on the lip border may signal herpes risk; honey-colored crusts may signal impetigo-type contagion; ulcers and suspicious growths are refer, not treat.
Acne: Grades and Esthetics Judgment
Acne involves follicles, sebum, cells, and often Cutibacterium acnes (formerly P. acnes) in inflammatory pathways. Esthetics theory commonly uses a graded severity model:
| Grade (typical teaching) | Presentation notes | Service caution |
|---|---|---|
| Grade I | Mostly open/closed comedones (blackheads/whiteheads); minor | Gentle clarifying care; avoid over-irritation |
| Grade II | Comedones plus some papules/pustules | Moderate facial protocols; careful extractions only when appropriate |
| Grade III | More inflamed papules/pustules; wider involvement | Avoid aggressive heat/extraction trauma; consider medical co-management messaging |
| Grade IV | Cystic/nodular, painful deep lesions | Not a “deep cleanse will fix it” day—refer for medical evaluation; do not aggressively extract cysts |
You are not a dermatologist writing prescriptions. You are expected to recognize when inflammation is too severe for aggressive esthetic trauma and when home-care education (non-comedogenic products, gentle cleanse, not picking) is the right contribution.
Rosacea
Rosacea is a chronic disorder often featuring facial redness, flushing, visible vessels, and sometimes papules/pustules that clients mistake for acne. Triggers may include heat, spicy food, alcohol, stress, and harsh products (individual patterns vary).
Esthetics implications:
- Avoid treating rosacea like ordinary oily acne with hot steam, heavy scrubbing, and harsh oils.
- Use calming, barrier-friendly products; reduce heat and friction.
- Active inflammatory rosacea may need medical management—refer when uncertain or severe.
- Do not promise a “cure” with one facial.
Hyperpigmentation and Hypopigmentation
Hyperpigmentation is excess color. Common esthetics-relevant forms:
- Melasma — often patchy brown facial pigmentation; associated with hormonal influences and UV; strict sun protection is central to any care plan discussion.
- Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) — dark marks after acne, injury, waxing, or irritation; more concerning in medium-to-deeper Fitzpatrick types (Section 9.1).
- Sun-related freckling / solar lentigines (as taught) — UV-driven spots; reinforce SPF and refer changing lesions.
Hypopigmentation is reduced pigment (lighter patches). Causes range from post-inflammatory lightening to medical conditions (e.g., vitiligo is a medical diagnosis territory). Your job: note color change, avoid promising pigment “correction” beyond scope, protect from further injury, and refer unexplained or progressive pigment loss.
| Finding | Analysis note | Typical aesthetician action |
|---|---|---|
| Melasma-like patches | Hormone + UV story often present | Gentle care, SPF emphasis, realistic goals, refer if needed |
| PIH after breakouts | Marks follow inflammation | Prevent new trauma; avoid aggressive peels on inflamed skin |
| Sudden hypopigmented patches | May be medical | Document and refer—do not invent a diagnosis name as fact |
Dermatitis, Eczema, and Seborrheic Dermatitis
Dermatitis is inflammation of the skin—redness, itching, sometimes vesicles or scaling. Contact dermatitis relates to allergens or irritants (product, fragrance, glove chemicals, plants). Eczema (atopic dermatitis and related patterns in teaching) often involves chronic dry, itchy, inflamed skin; barriers are fragile.
Seborrheic dermatitis commonly affects oily areas (scalp, brows, sides of nose, beard area) with redness and greasy-looking scale. Clients may call it “dandruff on the face.”
Service rules of thumb:
- Do not layer fragranced acids on actively weeping or severely inflamed dermatitis.
- Identify possible product triggers on intake (Chapter 7 consultation links here).
- Refer severe, infected-looking, or non-improving presentations.
- Keep tools and products sanitary—broken skin raises infection risk.
Contagious Diseases: Service Stop Signs
Certain conditions are contraindications for services in the affected area because of contagion risk to the client, you, and the next guest.
| Condition | Category cue | Why service stops |
|---|---|---|
| Impetigo | Bacterial; honey-colored crusts, often face | Highly contagious; do not perform facial/wax services on lesions |
| Tinea (ringworm) | Fungal; often annular (ring-like) patches | Contagious fungal infection—not a “worm”; refuse affected-area service |
| Herpes simplex (cold sores / fever blisters) | Viral vesicles on lip/face | Active lesions contraindicate many facial and wax services in the zone |
| Conjunctivitis (pink eye) | Eye infection (viral/bacterial teaching) | Close facial work and shared tools risk spread; postpone eye-area and often full facial proximity work per salon policy |
Also stay alert for other infection-control red flags taught in Safety chapters (MRSA-like open infection, lice/mites). Pattern for PSI:
- Recognize contagious presentation.
- Do not diagnose with false certainty if unsure—describe what you see.
- Refuse or postpone service that contacts the area.
- Refer to a physician or appropriate care.
- Disinfect surfaces and follow Standard Precautions if exposure occurred.
When to Refer: Suspicious Lesions and ABCDE Awareness
Massachusetts aestheticians must not diagnose cancer or other medical disease. You must protect clients by referring concerning findings. Teaching tool for pigmented lesion awareness is ABCDE:
| Letter | Meaning | Why it raises concern |
|---|---|---|
| A | Asymmetry | One half unlike the other |
| B | Border | Irregular, scalloped, poorly defined edges |
| C | Color | Multiple colors or uneven color |
| D | Diameter | Larger than roughly a pencil eraser (~6 mm) is a classic teaching threshold—any changing size matters |
| E | Evolving | Changing size, shape, color, symptoms (itch, bleed) |
Any lesion that is new, changing, bleeding, non-healing, or “just does not look right” is a refer situation—even if it fails only one letter of ABCDE. Do not dig, extract, or peel over a suspicious mole to “improve it.” Document that you advised medical evaluation.
Other automatic referral/modification categories:
- Undiagnosed rashes covering the treatment area
- Open wounds, undiagnosed sores, or severe inflammation
- Client reports of medical skin disease under active doctor care with restrictions
- Eye infections, active oral herpes in the service zone, suspected impetigo or tinea
Worked Exam Scenario
A client books a full facial and lip/chin wax. You see clustered vesicles on the upper lip with a tingling history of cold sores, plus a large asymmetrical dark mole on the cheek that the client says “has been getting darker this year.” The client asks you to “work around everything and extract the chin.”
Correct path: stop services that contact active herpetic lesions; explain contagion and comfort risk without over-claiming a medical diagnosis; do not treat or traumatize the changing mole—refer for medical evaluation using professional, calm language; offer to reschedule facial/wax when the lip is fully healed and after medical clearance if needed for the mole area; clean/disinfect as required. That answer pattern scores both infection control and analysis judgment.
Common Traps
- Treating rosacea as standard acne with heat and harsh exfoliation
- Aggressive cystic acne extractions that worsen scarring and PIH
- Ignoring impetigo/tinea/herpes/conjunctivitis stop signs
- Using ABCDE to diagnose melanoma instead of to refer
- Confusing primary and secondary lesion vocabulary on matching items
- Promising to “erase melasma in one peel” without UV/hormone realism and scope limits
Study Routine
- Flash primary vs secondary lesion pairs
- Recite acne grades I–IV with one service caution each
- List four contagious stop signs and the action verb refuse/refer
- Memorize ABCDE as referral awareness, not diagnosis authority
Final Check
Without notes: Give one primary and one secondary lesion example. State why active herpes stops a lip wax. Explain melasma vs PIH in one sentence each. Say what each ABCDE letter stands for and what you do when a mole is evolving. Ready answers unlock Section 9.3’s hands-on analysis workflow.
Which pair correctly contrasts primary and secondary lesions?
A client presents with painful, deep cystic facial lesions and asks for aggressive extractions today. What is the best aesthetician response pattern for exam and practice standards?
Which set lists contagious presentations that are classic service stop signs in the treatment area?
How should a Massachusetts aesthetician use the ABCDE criteria when observing a pigmented lesion?