Section 7.2: Color Theory & Restorative Cosmetics

Color Theory & Restorative Cosmetics

In mortuary science, cosmetology is the art of applying cosmetics to the face and hands of the deceased to present a natural, lifelike appearance. Success in mortuary cosmetology relies on color theory, which governs how pigments are blended, matched to skin tones, and perceived under various lighting conditions.

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The Physics of Color and the Color Wheel

Color begins with light. When light strikes an object, certain wavelengths are absorbed while others are reflected. The reflected wavelengths determine the color we perceive. In restorative art, we work with pigmentary color (subtractive color) rather than spectral color (additive light).

The color wheel organizes twelve distinct hues based on their mixing relationships:

1. Primary Colors

The three primary hues cannot be created by mixing other colors:

• Red
• Yellow
• Blue All other pigmentary colors are derived from combinations of these three.

2. Secondary Colors

Secondary hues are produced by mixing equal parts of two primary colors:

• Orange (Red + Yellow)
• Green (Yellow + Blue)
• Purple/Violet (Red + Blue)

3. Intermediate Colors

Intermediate hues are created by mixing equal parts of a primary color and its adjacent secondary color. They are always named with the primary color first:

• Red-Orange
• Yellow-Orange
• Yellow-Green
• Blue-Green
• Blue-Violet
• Red-Violet

4. Tertiary Colors

Tertiary colors are created by mixing unequal amounts of primary colors, or by mixing complementary colors. They are characterized by dulled, grayed, or brownish tones (e.g., olive, slate, and various skin tones).

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The Dimensions of Color

To analyze and match skin tones or cosmetics, three distinct dimensions of color must be evaluated:

1. Hue: The name of the color itself (e.g., red, blue-green). It represents the specific wavelength of light reflected by the pigment.
2. Value: The lightness or darkness of a color.
   • Tint: A hue that has been lightened by adding white. Adding a tint increases the value of the color.
   • Shade: A hue that has been darkened by adding black. Adding a shade decreases the value of the color.
3. Intensity (Chroma): The purity, brightness, or saturation of a color.
   • Tone: A hue that has been dulled by adding gray, or by adding a small amount of its complementary color. Adding a complement neutralizes the hue and lowers its intensity, making it a tertiary or grayed tone.

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Color Harmonies and Schemes

Creating visually pleasing cosmetic arrangements or matching funeral settings involves using color harmonies:

• Monochromatic: A color scheme utilizing only one hue, along with various tints, shades, and tones of that specific color.
• Analogous: A scheme using two or more colors that are adjacent to each other on the color wheel (e.g., yellow, yellow-orange, and orange). These colors share a common color component.
• Complementary: A scheme utilizing two colors directly opposite each other on the color wheel (e.g., red and green). When placed side-by-side, they intensify each other; when mixed together, they neutralize each other to gray or brown.
• Triadic: Three hues that are equidistant on the color wheel, forming an equilateral triangle (e.g., red, yellow, and blue).
• Split-Complementary: A hue combined with the two colors on either side of its complement (e.g., red combined with yellow-green and blue-green).

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Types of Mortuary Cosmetics

Cosmetics are classified based on their consistency and coverage capabilities:

1. Liquid Cosmetics

Liquid cosmetics are generally transparent or semi-opaque.

• Advantages: They do not mask natural skin textures, pores, freckles, or lines. They dry to the touch, do not rub off easily, and prevent a caked appearance.
• Disadvantages: They cannot cover severe discolorations, bruises, or wax surfaces. They may dry the skin if alcohol-based.

2. Cream Cosmetics

Cream cosmetics have a paste-like consistency and range from semi-opaque to completely opaque.

• Advantages: Excellent for covering severe discolorations (e.g., bruising, jaundice, post-mortem stain) and hiding wax borders. They prevent dehydration of tissues and are highly blendable.
• Disadvantages: They remain wet and must be set with powder. They can easily smudge or rub off on clothing.

3. Powder Cosmetics

Powders are dry, finely milled particles used to set cream cosmetics, absorb excess moisture, and reduce surface shine.

• Types: Transparent (no color, used strictly to set makeup) and pigmented (contains skin-tone color to add warmth).

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Skin Tone Restoration

Natural human skin tone is composed of a mixture of four pigments:

1. Melanin (Brown): The primary determinant of skin darkness.
2. Carotene (Yellow): Provides a warm, yellowish undertone.
3. Hemoglobin/Oxyhemoglobin (Red): Found in blood capillaries, giving a pinkish or red flush.
4. Stratum Corneum (White): The outer layer of the skin, which scatters light and adds a whitish/grayish tone.

Warm Color Areas of the Face

Warm areas contain a higher concentration of active blood capillaries and must be accented with red/pink tones to avoid a flat, lifeless appearance.

• Facial Warm Areas: Cheeks (zygomatic arches), lips (mucous membranes), ears (lobe and helix), chin (mental eminence), nose (tip and wings), and forehead (specifically in males).
• Hand Warm Areas: Knuckles, fingernail beds, and thenar/hypothenar eminences.

Correcting Discolorations

When dealing with pathological discolorations, the embalmer must use color theory to neutralize the stain:

• Bruising (Ecchymosis): Bruises progress from purple/blue to green/yellow. A yellow-tinted undercoat is used to neutralize purple stains; a red/orange tint neutralizes green/blue.
• Jaundice: To treat the yellow discoloration of jaundice, the embalmer should use red/pink undercoats or counter-stains to neutralize the yellow hue before applying a final skin-tone cream.