Principles & Techniques of Haircutting

Principles & Techniques of Haircutting

Haircutting is the foundational skill of cosmetology. Achieving precise, predictable haircutting results requires a thorough understanding of head anatomy, reference points, elevation angles, line directions, guidelines, and tool techniques.

Reference Points of the Head

Reference points are surface areas on the head where the shape of the skull changes. Locating reference points enables the cosmetologist to establish consistent guidelines, maintain symmetry, and execute repeatable haircut designs.

Key Reference Points

• Parietal Ridge (Crest): The widest area of the head, starting at the temples and ending at the bottom of the crown. Found by placing a comb flat against the side of the head; the parietal ridge lies where the head begins to curve away from the comb.
• Occipital Bone: The bone that protrudes at the base of the skull. Located by feeling the back of the skull or placing a comb flat against the nape.
• Apex: The highest point on the top of the head. Located by placing a comb flat on top of the skull; the comb rests on the apex.
• Four Corners: Points located by placing two combs flat against the side and back of the head. The intersection where the two combs meet marks the corner point. Signal transitions between front, top, and side sections.
• Crown: The area between the apex and the back of the parietal ridge. Frequently features irregular growth patterns such as whorls and cowlicks.
• Nape: The area at the back of the neck below the occipital bone.

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Lines, Sections, and Angles

All haircuts are constructed from combinations of lines, sections, and elevation angles.

Types of Haircutting Lines

• Horizontal Lines: Parallel to the horizon. Horizontal lines build weight, create breadth, and are used in 0° blunt haircuts.
• Vertical Lines: Perpendicular to the floor. Vertical lines remove weight, create graduated or layered haircuts, and are held at higher elevations.
• Diagonal Lines: Slanted lines positioned between horizontal and vertical. Used for beveling and stacking to blend weight lines.

Sub-sections and Partings

Hair is divided into working areas called sections prior to cutting. Each section is further divided into smaller partings called sub-sections. The angle at which the shears cut relative to the parting determines the final silhouette.

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Elevation Angles and Haircut Classifications

Elevation (also called projection) is the degree or angle at which a subsection of hair is held or lifted away from the head when cutting. Elevation creates design weight and layering.

Detail of the Four Basic Haircuts

1. Blunt Haircut (0° Elevation): All hair falls to one single hanging level. The hair is held flat against the back and sides with minimal tension, utilizing a stationary guideline at the perimeter.
2. Graduated Haircut (45° Elevation): Hair is held at a 45-degree angle. Lower sections remain shorter while upper sections overhang, producing a visual weight line around the perimeter.
3. Uniform Layered Haircut (90° Elevation): Hair is held straight out at 90 degrees from the curve of the head. All hair sections are cut to the exact same length, producing a soft, rounded silhouette with no weight line.
4. Long Layered Haircut (180° Elevation): Hair is elevated straight up overhead at 180 degrees. The interior hair is cut shorter while the outer perimeter retains maximum length, ideal for long hair volume.

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Guidelines and Control Systems

A guideline (or guide) is a subsection of hair that determines the length to which subsequent hair sections will be cut.

• Stationary Guideline: A fixed guideline that does not move. All subsequent hair subsections are combed to this single guide point. Used in blunt haircuts and 180° long-layered cuts to create dramatic length increases.
• Traveling Guideline (Movable Guide): A guideline that moves as the haircut progresses. A small portion of the previously cut subsection is incorporated into the next subsection to serve as the length reference. Used in 90° uniform layered cuts.

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Haircutting Tools and Safety Execution

Using haircutting tools correctly ensures clean lines and prevents ergonomic injury to the stylist.

Shears and Palming Technique

• Always hold the shears with the thumb in the lower moving ring and the ring finger in the upper still ring.
• Palming the Shears: Hold the shears closed in the palm of the non-dominant hand while combing hair. Palming prevents accidental injury to the client and maintains control of the comb.

Razor Cutting Rules

• Use a razor only on clean, wet hair. Razor cutting dry hair dulls the blade, pulls the hair follicle, and damages the cuticle, causing split ends.
• Keep the razor blade at a 45-degree angle to the hair strand to produce soft, feathered edges.

Texturizing and Thinning Shears

• Texturizing Shears (notch shears): Feature notched teeth used to remove bulk without shortening length.
• Point Cutting: Cutting with the tips of the shears held perpendicular into the ends of the hair strands to soften hard lines.