Anatomy and Physiology
25%of exam
Barbering Services
42%of exam
Implements, Tools, Equipment
12%of exam
Product Knowledge and Chemistry
11%of exam
Safety and Infection Control
6%of exam
Microbiology
4%of exam
Oregon Laws and Rules Exam
Not publishedof exam
Quick Facts
- Exam
- Oregon barbering written
- Board
- HLO Board of Cosmetology
- Questions
- 100 barbering, 90 laws
- Time
- 90 minutes each exam
- Pass
- 75% on each exam
- Exam fee
- $45 per exam
- Retake
- Next business day
- Testing
- Walk-in, Salem HLO office
- Format
- Touch-screen multiple choice
- School
- 746 hours, 465 operations
- Certificate
- Two years, $35 issuance
- Blueprint
- Revised October 25, 2019
Hair Layers
Cuticle, cortex, medulla
Cuticle: protectionCortex: strength and colorMedulla: central core
Dandruff vs Tinea Capitis
Dandruff
- Dry or oily flaking
- Not contagious
- Service may proceed
Tinea capitis
- Fungal ringworm
- Contagious
- Refer to physician
Refer contagious conditions
Hair Structure
- Cuticle
- Outer overlapping scales
- Cortex
- Strength, elasticity, melanin
- Medulla
- Central core, often absent
- Follicle
- Tube holding the root
- Papilla
- Feeds the hair bulb
- Arrector pili
- Muscle raising the hair
- Sebaceous gland
- Secretes sebum oil
- Keratin
- Hair and nail protein
- Porosity
- How fast hair absorbs
- Elasticity
- Stretch and spring back
- Density
- Hairs per square inch
- Texture
- Fine, medium, coarse
Growth Cycle
Anagen, catagen, telogen
Anagen: growingCatagen: transitionTelogen: resting
Hair and Scalp Disorders
- Alopecia
- Hair loss
- Androgenic alopecia
- Pattern hair loss
- Alopecia areata
- Sudden round bald patches
- Postpartum alopecia
- Shedding after childbirth
- Pityriasis
- Dandruff, dry flaking
- Tinea capitis
- Scalp ringwormRefer out
- Tinea barbae
- Beard-area ringwormRefer out
- Pediculosis capitis
- Head liceBarber discretion
- Scabies
- Itch mite burrowsRefer out
- Pseudofolliculitis
- Ingrown beard hairs
- Canities
- Gray hair
- Trichoptilosis
- Split ends
- Hypertrichosis
- Excess hair growth
Skin Histology
- Epidermis
- Outer skin layer
- Dermis
- Live layer, collagen
- Subcutaneous
- Fat layer beneath
- Stratum corneum
- Horny surface layer
- Stratum germinativum
- Deepest epidermal layer
- Melanocytes
- Cells making melanin
- Melanin
- Skin and hair pigment
- Sudoriferous gland
- Sweat gland
- Sebum
- Natural skin oil
- Acid mantle
- Protective skin film
Head Anatomy
- Frontal bone
- Forehead
- Parietal bones
- Sides and crown
- Occipital bone
- Back of skull
- Temporal bones
- Ear region
- Mandible
- Lower jaw
- Maxillae
- Upper jaw
- Zygomatic
- Cheekbone
- Masseter
- Chewing muscle
- Sternocleidomastoid
- Turns and lowers head
- Trifacial nerve
- Fifth cranial, facial sensation
- Facial nerve
- Seventh cranial, facial motion
Barbering Blueprint Order
Services 42, Anatomy 25, Tools 12
Barbering Services 42%Anatomy 25%Implements 12%Products 11%Safety 6%Microbiology 4%
Taper vs Fade
Taper
- Gradual length change
- Hair still visible
- Classic outline
Fade
- Blends down to skin
- No visible line
- Shorter at bottom
Fade reaches skin
Elevation Picker
- Want maximum weight→0 degrees(Blunt one-length)
- Want stacked weight→45 degrees(Graduation)
- Want even layers→90 degrees(Follows head shape)
- Want weight removed→Above 90 degrees(Long layers)
- Want tight nape taper→Clipper-over-comb
- Want soft blend→Shear-over-comb
- Want skin-close bottom→Fade(No visible line)
Consultation and Treatments
- Client consultation
- Agree on service first
- Hair analysis
- Texture, density, porosity, elasticity
- Scalp analysis
- Check for disorders
- Skin analysis
- Type and condition
- Referral
- Send disorders to physician
- Contraindication
- Reason to skip service
- Scalp massage
- Stimulates scalp circulation
- Shampoo service
- Cleanses before the service
- Facial treatment
- Cleanse, massage, mask
- Facial massage
- Manipulates facial muscles
Elevation Ladder
0 blunt, 45 graduated, 90 uniform
0: maximum weight45: stacked wedge90: uniform layersAbove 90: long layers
Shear vs Razor Cutting
Shear cutting
- Blunt clean ends
- Dry or damp hair
- Keeps more weight
Razor cutting
- Tapered soft ends
- Wet hair only
- Removes more bulk
Blunt vs tapered ends
Design Elements
- Head form
- Shape of the skull
- Apex
- Highest point of head
- Parietal ridge
- Widest part of head
- Four corners
- Where the head curves
- Nape
- Back hairline area
- Elevation
- Angle hair is held
- Form
- Overall outline shape
- Texture
- Smooth or curly surface
- Profile
- Side view of face
- Facial shapes
- Oval, round, square, oblong
- Oval face
- Reference ideal shape
- Balance and proportion
- Even visual weight
Cutting and Styling
- Blunt cut
- One length, maximum weight
- Graduation
- Stacked wedge buildup
- Uniform layers
- Same length throughout
- Long layers
- Weight removed, movement added
- Clipper-over-comb
- Comb guides the clipper
- Shear-over-comb
- Comb guides the shears
- Freehand clipper
- No comb or guard
- Arching
- Outline around the ears
- Outlining
- Perimeter edge line
- Taper
- Gradual shortening downward
- Fade
- Blends down to skin
- Thermal styling
- Heat tools shape hair
- Head shaving
- Razor removes all hair
- Artificial hair
- Wigs, hairpieces, extensions
Shaving Procedures
- Steaming
- Hot towel softens beard
- Lathering
- Hydrates and lifts hair
- Freehand stroke
- Most-used shaving stroke
- Backhand stroke
- Reversed hand position
- Reverse freehand
- Opposite freehand direction
- Reverse backhand
- Opposite backhand direction
- Once-over shave
- Single pass, with grain
- Close shave
- Second pass, against grain
- Skin stretching
- Prevents nicks and irritation
- Hair grain
- Natural growth direction
- Finishing step
- Cool towel, then lotion
- Beard design
- Trim, outline, balance
Honing vs Stropping
Honing
- Grinds a new edge
- Uses hone or whetstone
- Removes metal
Stropping
- Aligns existing edge
- Uses leather strop
- Before each shave
Hone makes, strop aligns
Implements and Tools
- Clippers
- Remove bulk length fast
- Trimmers
- Outline and detail work
- Straight razor
- Shaving and razor cutting
- Changeable-blade razor
- Disposable blade shaving
- Cutting shears
- Blunt cuts and tapering
- Thinning shears
- Remove bulk, add texture
- Combs
- Section, guide, distribute
- Brushes
- Smooth, style, remove hair
- Capes and drapes
- Protect client clothing
- Neck strips
- Barrier at the neck
- Massage tools
- Vibratory scalp massage
- Styptic powder
- Stops minor bleedingNever shared pencil
Razor Care
- Hone
- Grinds a new edge
- Strop
- Aligns the existing edge
- Leather strop
- Final smoothing before shave
- Whetstone
- Natural honing surface
- Blade balance
- Weight of the razor
- Blade temper
- Hardness of the steel
- Disposable blade
- Discard after each client
Clipper Guard Lengths
- Guard 0
- 1/16 inch
- Guard 1
- 1/8 inch
- Guard 2
- 1/4 inch
- Guard 3
- 3/8 inch
- Guard 4
- 1/2 inch
- Guard 5
- 5/8 inch
- Guard 6
- 3/4 inch
- Guard 8
- 1 inch
- Sizes vary
- Check manufacturer chart
pH Ladder
Acid closes, alkaline opens
Below 7: acidic7: neutralAbove 7: alkalineHair: 4.5 to 5.5
Alkaline vs Acidic
Alkaline
- Above pH 7
- Swells the hair
- Opens the cuticle
Acidic
- Below pH 7
- Contracts the hair
- Closes the cuticle
Alkaline opens, acid closes
Products
- Shampoo
- Surfactant cleanser
- Clarifying shampoo
- Strips product buildup
- Medicated shampoo
- Treats dandruff conditions
- Dry shampoo
- Powder absorbs oil
- Conditioner
- Smooths and softens cuticle
- Styling gel
- Firm hold, definition
- Pomade
- Shine and pliable hold
- Clay or wax
- Matte texture hold
- Hairspray
- Finishing hold
- Pre-shave oil
- Reduces razor drag
- Shaving cream
- Softens and lubricates beard
- Aftershave
- Soothes, mild antiseptic
- Astringent
- Tightens and removes oil
- Alum
- Contracts minor nicks
pH and Chemistry
- pH scale
- Zero to fourteen
- Neutral
- pH 7
- Acidic
- Below pH 7
- Alkaline
- Above pH 7
- One pH step
- Ten times the strength
- Hair and skin pH
- About 4.5 to 5.5
- Alkaline effect
- Swells and opens cuticle
- Acidic effect
- Closes and hardens cuticle
- Hard water
- High mineral content
- Soft water
- Low mineral content
- Emulsion
- Oil suspended in water
- Surfactant
- Cleansing molecule
- Humectant
- Attracts and holds moisture
Federal Four
OSHA, FDA, EPA, CDC
OSHA: worker safetyFDA: cosmetics and drugsEPA: disinfectant registrationCDC: infection guidance
Federal Agencies
- OSHA
- Workplace safety standards
- Safety Data Sheet
- Hazard and handling infoOSHA
- Bloodborne standard
- Exposure control rulesOSHA
- FDA
- Cosmetics and drugs
- EPA
- Registers disinfectants
- CDC
- Infection control guidance
- Universal precautions
- Treat all blood infectious
Blood Exposure Steps
- Step 1
- Stop the service
- Step 2
- Put on disposable gloves
- Step 3
- Pressure, then styptic powder
- Step 4
- Cover the wound
- Step 5
- Bag and discard waste
- Step 6
- Disinfect tools and station
- Step 7
- Remove gloves, wash hands
Safe Usage
- Cords and plugs
- Inspect before every use
- Wet hands
- Never touch electrical tools
- Ventilation
- Required for chemical fumes
- Eye protection
- Wear when spattering likely
- Gloves
- Wear for blood exposure
- Hand washing
- Before and after clients
Bacteria Shapes
Cocci round, bacilli rods, spirilla spirals
Staphylococci: clustersStreptococci: chainsDiplococci: pairs
Pathogenic vs Nonpathogenic
Pathogenic
- Causes disease
- Staph and strep
- Infection control target
Nonpathogenic
- Harmless or helpful
- Most bacteria
- Normal skin flora
Most bacteria are harmless
Microbiology
- Bacteria
- One-celled microorganisms
- Pathogenic
- Disease-causing
- Nonpathogenic
- Harmless or helpful
- Cocci
- Round bacteria
- Staphylococci
- Grape-like clusters
- Streptococci
- Chain formations
- Bacilli
- Rod-shaped, most common
- Spirilla
- Spiral or corkscrew
- Virus
- Needs a host cell
- Hepatitis B
- Hardy bloodborne virus
- HIV
- Attacks the immune system
- Fungi
- Molds, yeasts, ringworm
- Parasite
- Lives on a host
- Natural immunity
- Inherited resistance
- Acquired immunity
- After illness or vaccine
Disinfect Steps
Remove, clean, rinse, disinfect
Remove hair and debrisSoap or detergentClear water rinseThen disinfect or sterilize
Low vs High Disinfectant
Low-level
- EPA registered
- Bactericidal and fungicidal
- Limited virucidal
High-level
- EPA registered
- Tuberculocidal activity
- Sharp tools, clipper blades
Tuberculocidal means high-level
Disinfection Picker
- Combs, brushes, rollers→Low-level immersion(1,000 ppm quat)
- Shears, razors, nippers→High-level immersion(Tuberculocidal)
- Electric clipper blades→High-level saturation(Solution, spray, foam)
- Other electrical tools→Low-level disinfect
- Cannot be disinfected→Discard after use
- Nail files, wood sticks→Give client or discard
- Sharps touched blood→Sharps container(Biohazard label)
- Chemically soiled towels→Fire-retardant container(Airtight metal)
Laws Exam Question Counts
- Facility Standards
- 35 questions
- Definitions
- 21 questions
- Licensing and Certification
- 9 questions
- Chemicals
- 8 questions
- Practice Standards
- 6 questions
- Facility Operations
- 6 questions
- Examinations
- 5 questions
- Total
- 90 questions
Laws Exam Order
Facility 35, Definitions 21, Licensing 9
Chemicals 8Practice Standards 6Facility Operations 6Examinations 5
Barbering vs Hair Design
Barbering
- Cut, taper, shave
- Tonics, dressings, rinses
- No chemical restructuring
Hair design
- Permanent waving
- Relaxing and coloring
- Bleaching allowed
Physical vs chemical work
Scope of Practice Picker
- Cut, taper or fade→Barbering
- Shave beard or mustache→Barbering
- Massage scalp and face→Barbering
- Permanent wave or relax→Hair design
- Bleach or color hair→Hair design
- Braid, lock or twist→Natural hair care(Barbers already authorized)
- Superficial chemical peel→Esthetics
Oregon Definitions
- Barbering
- Cut, style, shave, condition
- Hair design
- Adds chemical hair services
- Natural hair care
- Braiding, locking, twisting, weaving
- Field of practice
- One of five disciplines
- Facility
- Establishment providing services
- Authorization
- HLO certificate or license
- Practitioner
- Person certified to practice
- Article
- Neck strips, towels, capes
- Tools and implements
- Portable items used on clients
- Equipment
- Chairs, sinks, cabinets
- Soiled
- Used, not yet disinfected
- Disinfect
- Destroy harmful organisms
- Low-level disinfectant
- EPA, limited virucidal
- High-level disinfectant
- EPA, tuberculocidal
- Fire-retardant container
- Airtight metal container
- Chemical service
- Restructures hair, skin, nails
- Dispensing area
- Nonporous mixing area, sink
- Work area
- Where services are performed
Certificate vs Facility License
Certificate
- Covers the person
- Two years
- $35 first issuance
Facility license
- Covers the location
- One year
- $155 issuance
Person versus place
Exam Day Arrival Picker
- Four fields plus laws→Arrive 9 a.m.
- Three fields plus laws→Arrive 10:30 a.m.
- Two fields plus laws→Arrive 12 p.m.
- One field plus laws→Arrive 1 p.m.
- ESL, two fields, laws→Arrive 9 a.m.(2.5 hours each)
- ESL, one field, laws→Arrive 11 a.m.(2.5 hours each)
- Need ADA accommodation→Request 30 days ahead
Oregon Disinfection Rules
- Every client
- Disinfect or sterilize first
- Order of steps
- Remove, clean, rinse, disinfect
- Combs and brushes
- 1,000 ppm quat immersion
- Shears and razors
- High-level immersion
- Electrical tools
- Low-level disinfect
- Clipper blades
- High-level saturation
- Porous articles
- Give client or discard
- Sterilizers
- FDA-listed steam or dry heat
- Solution upkeep
- Effective, debris free, available
- Reusable gloves
- Clean and disinfect after
- Disposable gloves
- Discard immediately after use
Freelance vs Independent Contractor
Freelance
- Work outside a facility
- One year term
- ORS 690.123
Independent contractor
- Inside licensed facility
- Not an employee
- ORS 690.057
Outside versus inside facility
Oregon Facility Standards
- Water supply
- Hot and cold running
- Restroom sink
- Not the facility source
- Bar soap
- Prohibited
- Common towel
- Prohibited
- Clean linens
- Fresh set per client
- Soiled linens
- Closable sturdy containers
- Chemical linens
- Fire-retardant container
- Neck barrier
- Neck strip or towel
- Chemical waste
- Closed container each service
- End of day
- Chemical waste, fire-retardant container
- Blood waste
- Bag, then covered container
- Sharps
- Puncture-resistant, biohazard-labeled
- Clean tool storage
- Separate from all others
- Used wax
- Removed daily
Oregon Practice Standards
- Hand washing
- Before and after each client
- Gloves
- When blood exposure routine
- Goggles or mask
- When spattering is likely
- Head lice
- Practitioner discretion allowed
- Banned products
- FDA-banned cosmetics prohibited
- Hazardous per SDS
- Prohibited on clients
- Open flame
- None during chemical service
- Chemical mixing
- Ventilated dispensing area
- Reactive containers
- At least 12 inches apart
- Over one gallon
- Separate isolated storage
- Formaldehyde services
- Follow Oregon OSHA rule
Oregon Fees and Terms
- Application
- $30 per field of practice
- Reciprocity application
- $100 per field
- Each written exam
- $45
- Each retake
- $45
- First certificate
- $35 for two years
- Certificate renewal
- $65 for two years
- Freelance authorization
- $140 per year
- Independent contractor
- $140 per year
- Facility license
- $155 per year
- Delinquency fee
- $50 per inactive year
- Barbering program
- 746 hours, 465 operations
- Extra required hours
- 20 laws, 20 career
- Practical score
- Valid five years
- Written exam window
- Two years from application
- Renewal attestation
- Bloodborne pathogens training
Common Traps
One certificate, two exams
Barbering exam: 100 questions ≠ Laws exam: 90 questions
Clipper blades are special
Electricals take low-level ≠ Clipper blades need high-level
Color is not barbering
Barbering cuts and shaves ≠ Hair design colors and perms
Retakes are not free
Next business day allowed ≠ Each retake costs $45
Restroom sink does not count
Facility needs its own ≠ Restroom sink is excluded
Cape needs a barrier
Neck strip or towel ≠ Cape never touches skin
Certificate is not facility
Certificate covers the person ≠ License covers the shop
HLO does not test practical
School gives practical exam ≠ HLO gives written exams
Cleaning is not disinfecting
Wash and rinse first ≠ Then disinfect or sterilize
Last Minute
- 1.Barbering exam: 100 questions, 90 minutes
- 2.Laws exam: 90 questions, 90 minutes
- 3.Pass mark is 75% each exam
- 4.Barbering Services is the biggest domain
- 5.Anatomy and Physiology is 25%
- 6.Facility Standards leads the laws exam
- 7.Clean and rinse before disinfecting
- 8.Combs immerse in 1,000 ppm quat
- 9.Sharp tools need high-level disinfectant
- 10.Clipper blades need high-level saturation
- 11.Neck strip blocks cape contact
- 12.Chemical towels go in fire-retardant containers
- 13.Retake next business day, $45
- 14.Certificate lasts two years
- 15.Color and perms are hair design
- 16.Bring two IDs, one photographic
- 17.School gives the practical exam
Buy on AmazonSame family resources
Explore More Barber License
Continue into nearby exams from the same family. Each card keeps practice questions, study guides, flashcards, videos, and articles in one place.
More From This Family
Videos and articles for deeper review.