8.2 Hair removal & makeup application

Hair removal: temporary versus permanent

Hair removal is among the most requested salon services, and the exam expects you to separate the methods correctly. Two terms frame the topic: depilation removes hair at or above the skin surface, while epilation removes the entire hair, including the root, from the follicle.

Temporary methods

Temporary methods last from a few days to a few weeks:

• Shaving: depilation; cuts hair at the surface with a razor, so regrowth is quick and blunt-tipped.
• Tweezing: epilation of individual hairs; used to shape the eyebrows.
• Waxing: the most common salon epilation, using either soft or hard wax.
• Threading: a twisted cotton thread rolled across the skin to lift a row of hairs; popular for brows and the upper lip.
• Sugaring: a warm paste of sugar, lemon, and water applied against the direction of growth and removed with it; it is water-soluble and gentle.
• Depilatories: chemical creams, usually containing thioglycolate, that dissolve hair at the surface; a patch or skin test is required to check for allergy.

Threading and sugaring are popular with clients who have sensitive skin, because they use no heat or harsh chemicals and can lift very short hairs. Shaving, by contrast, only trims the surface and does not thin regrowth despite the common myth that it makes hair grow back thicker.

Longer-term and permanent methods

• Electrolysis: the only method the FDA recognizes as permanent hair removal. A fine probe is inserted into each follicle and destroys the papilla with electric current. Its three modalities are galvanic (chemical decomposition), thermolysis (heat), and blend (both).
• Laser hair removal: produces long-term permanent hair reduction. The light targets melanin in the follicle, so it works best on dark hair with lighter skin, and in many states it requires medical or specialized licensing.

Soft wax versus hard wax

Waxing procedure, safety, and sanitation

The single most important sanitation rule is no double-dipping: never return a used applicator to the wax pot, because one contaminated stick spreads bacteria through the entire container. Use a fresh spatula for every dip, or single-use applicators. Before applying, test the wax temperature on your own wrist to prevent burns. Apply soft wax in the direction of hair growth, then remove it against the growth while holding the skin taut with the free hand. Afterward, clean the area, apply a soothing post-wax lotion, and advise the client to avoid heat, sun, and friction for 24 hours. A patch test should precede a first-time service.

Hair-removal contraindications

Do not wax or use aggressive depilation on compromised skin. Key contraindications include:

• Isotretinoin (Accutane): the skin is thin and fragile, so the standard guidance is to wait about six months after discontinuing the drug.
• Topical retinoids (Retin-A or tretinoin) and any recent chemical peel or microdermabrasion.
• Sunburn, active rosacea, eczema, psoriasis, or any open, irritated, or broken skin.
• Recent laser resurfacing, use of blood-thinning medication, and poorly controlled diabetes, where you proceed only with caution.

Makeup application

Makeup enhances features, corrects imbalances, and creates the illusion of a balanced, oval face.

Color theory for makeup

The color wheel guides selection. Complementary colors sit opposite each other and neutralize one another: green cancels red (rosacea, blemishes); yellow or peach counteracts blue-purple dark under-eye circles; orange offsets blue tones on deeper complexions. Identifying a client's warm or cool undertone is the key to matching foundation correctly.

Face shapes and corrective technique

The oval face is the balanced ideal, and corrective makeup aims to make every other shape appear more oval. The main shapes are round, square, oblong (rectangle), triangle (pear), inverted triangle (heart), and diamond. Correction relies on light and shadow: highlighter, lighter than the skin, brings a feature forward and emphasizes it, while shadow or contour, darker than the skin, makes a feature recede and minimizes it. For example, shade the sides of a round face or the corners of a square jaw to slim and lengthen the shape toward an oval.

Cosmetic categories

Products are generally applied in order: primer, foundation, concealer, powder, blush (cheek color), eyeshadow, eyeliner, mascara, and lip liner or lip color. Foundation evens skin tone, concealer spot-covers, and powder sets the base so it lasts. Eye makeup balances the face: eyeliner defines the lash line, eyeshadow adds depth (light shades highlight the brow bone, darker shades contour the crease), mascara lengthens and thickens the lashes, and brow color frames the eyes and should follow the natural arch. Foundation is chosen one to two shades to match, not lighten, the client's neck and jaw so there is no visible demarcation line.

Lash application and safety

Lash options include strip (band) lashes, individual or cluster lashes, and semi-permanent eyelash extensions. Safety is essential around the eye: always perform a patch test for adhesive sensitivity, because some adhesives contain latex or trace formaldehyde-releasing preservatives; never apply lashes to an inflamed or infected eye; and keep adhesive out of the eye itself. Remove lashes with the proper solvent or remover, never by pulling, so the client's natural lashes are not damaged.