9.2 The 14 Shaving Areas of the Face

9.2 The 14 Shaving Areas of the Face

Quick Answer: The standard 14 shaving areas of the face represent a universal anatomical blueprint mandated by the National-Interstate Council of State Boards of Cosmetology (NIC). Shaving proceeds in numerical order starting at Area 1 (upper right sideburn) and finishing at Area 14 (lower neck/Adam's apple). Each zone pairs a designated stroke (Freehand, Backhand, Reverse Freehand, or Reverse Backhand) with the natural direction of hair growth (with the grain). Shaving strictly with the grain prevents razor burn and ingrown hairs. A second-time-over shave utilizes re-lathering and cross-grain strokes for closeness, whereas a prohibited 'close shave' cuts against the grain on raw skin, leading to pseudofolliculitis barbae and follicular damage.

Mastering the art of straight-razor shaving requires an intimate knowledge of facial topography. The human face is an intricate landscape of convex curves, concave hollows, delicate cartilage, and prominent bony ridges. To ensure that every shave is executed efficiently, symmetrically, and safely without missing patches or injuring the client, the barbering profession utilizes a standardized 14-area shaving blueprint.

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The Standard 14 Shaving Areas Blueprint

The 14 shaving areas established by the National-Interstate Council (NIC) and tested on state board examinations divide the face and neck into distinct geometric panels. Each area requires a specific stance, hand position, razor stroke, and non-dominant skin stretch.

                                  [ FOREHEAD ]
                                 /            \
                   (Right Side) /              \ (Left Side)
                               /                \
                 [ AREA 1 ]   |   [ NOSE ]       |   [ AREA 3 ]
             (Upper Right     |   [ AREA 11 ]    | (Upper Left
              Sideburn/Cheek) |   (Upper Lip)    |  Sideburn/Cheek)
                              |                  |
                 [ AREA 2 ]   |   [ AREA 12 ]    |   [ AREA 4 ]
              (Right Upper    |  (Lower Lip/     |  (Left Upper
               Lip to Corner) |   Mental Crease) |   Lip to Corner)
                              |                  |
                              |   [ AREA 5 ]     |
                              | (Center Chin)    |
                              +------------------+
                              |   [ AREA 6 ]     |
                              | (Center Sub-Chin)|
           [ AREA 7 ]         |                  |         [ AREA 8 ]
        (Right Lower Jaw)     |                  |      (Left Lower Jaw)
                              +------------------+
           [ AREA 10 ]        |   [ AREA 13 ]    |         [ AREA 9 ]
        (Right Neck below ear)| (Under Jaw Ctr)  |     (Left Neck below ear)
                              +------------------+
                              |   [ AREA 14 ]    |
                              | (Lower Trachea)  |

Systematic Anatomical Breakdown: Areas 1 through 14

1. Area 1 — Upper Right Sideburn and Cheek:
   • Location: Extends from the top of the right sideburn downward along the cheekbone toward the angle of the jaw.
   • Stroke: Freehand.
   • Movement: Downward with the grain.
   • Stretch: Non-dominant thumb rests 1 to 2 inches above the sideburn, pulling upward.
2. Area 2 — Right Side of Upper Lip:
   • Location: From the right nostril margin outward and downward to the right corner of the mouth.
   • Stroke: Backhand.
   • Movement: Downward and slightly diagonal with the grain.
   • Stretch: Non-dominant fingers stretch skin upward and taut toward the cheekbone.
3. Area 3 — Upper Left Sideburn and Cheek:
   • Location: Extends from the top of the left sideburn downward along the cheek toward the jawline.
   • Stroke: Freehand.
   • Movement: Downward with the grain.
   • Stretch: Non-dominant thumb or fingers placed above the sideburn, stretching upward.
4. Area 4 — Left Side of Upper Lip:
   • Location: From the left nostril margin outward and downward to the left corner of the mouth.
   • Stroke: Backhand.
   • Movement: Downward and slightly diagonal with the grain.
   • Stretch: Non-dominant fingers stretch the left cheek upward and outward.
5. Area 5 — Center of Chin and Lower Lip:
   • Location: Covers the anterior projection of the chin immediately beneath the mental crease of the lower lip.
   • Stroke: Reverse Freehand.
   • Movement: Upward from the chin base or across with the grain.
   • Stretch: Non-dominant thumb stretches skin downward beneath the chin.
6. Area 6 — Center Neck Under Chin:
   • Location: Extends from directly beneath the center of the chin downward to the upper thyroid prominence (Adam's apple).
   • Stroke: Freehand.
   • Movement: Downward with the grain.
   • Stretch: Non-dominant fingers stretch the skin upward over the chin.
7. Area 7 — Lower Right Jawline and Neck:
   • Location: Spans from the angle of the right jaw downward toward the clavicle on the right lateral neck.
   • Stroke: Backhand.
   • Movement: Downward with the grain.
   • Stretch: Non-dominant fingers rest along the mandibular bone, stretching upward.
8. Area 8 — Lower Left Jawline and Neck:
   • Location: Spans from the angle of the left jaw downward toward the clavicle on the left anterior-lateral neck.
   • Stroke: Freehand.
   • Movement: Downward with the grain.
   • Stretch: Non-dominant fingers stretch upward along the left jawline.
9. Area 9 — Left Jawline Below Ear to Corner of Jaw:
   • Location: The lateral left neck immediately below the lobule of the left ear to the mandibular angle.
   • Stroke: Reverse Backhand (this is the only area on the face where the Reverse Backhand stroke is standardly utilized).
   • Movement: Downward and slightly forward with the grain.
   • Stretch: Non-dominant thumb placed below the earlobe, stretching upward and backward.
10. Area 10 — Right Jawline Below Ear to Corner of Jaw:
    • Location: The lateral right neck immediately below the lobule of the right ear to the mandibular angle.
    • Stroke: Reverse Freehand.
    • Movement: Upward or diagonal with the grain.
    • Stretch: Non-dominant fingers placed below the jawline, stretching downward or backward.
11. Area 11 — Across Upper Lip Below Nose (Philtrum):
    • Location: The central subnasal space directly below the nasal septum and columella down to the vermilion border.
    • Stroke: Freehand (or Backhand depending on barber dominance and angle).
    • Movement: Downward with the grain.
    • Stretch: Non-dominant thumb and forefinger stretch the upper lip taut sideways or the client rolls their lip inward over the teeth.
12. Area 12 — Lower Lip to Chin Crease (Mentalis Hollow):
    • Location: The concave hollow between the vermilion border of the lower lip and the prominence of the chin.
    • Stroke: Reverse Freehand.
    • Movement: Upward from the chin crease toward the lower lip.
    • Stretch: Non-dominant thumb stretches downward on the chin apex.
13. Area 13 — Under Jawline, Center Neck:
    • Location: The submandibular groove spanning horizontally under the jawline between the chin and lateral neck.
    • Stroke: Freehand (or Reverse Freehand depending on grain direction).
    • Movement: Downward or across with the grain.
    • Stretch: Non-dominant fingers pull upward along the mandibular border.
14. Area 14 — Lower Neck, Adam's Apple Area:
    • Location: The lowest anterior cervical zone immediately surrounding and overlying the thyroid cartilage.
    • Stroke: Reverse Freehand.
    • Movement: Upward or diagonal with the grain.
    • Stretch: Non-dominant fingers gently pull the skin sideways off the sharp thyroid prominence onto flat soft tissue before shaving.

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Reference Matrix: The 14 Shaving Areas

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Systematic Shaving Sequence: Ergonomics and Flow

Efficiency in barbering relies on fluid choreography. The barber does not jump haphazardly between disparate areas of the face. Working in numerical order (1 through 14) minimizes chair repositioning, ensures muscle memory precision, and prevents missing patches of hair.

Stance and Physical Ergonomics

• Positioning: The barber stands primarily to the right side of the client for right-handed execution, with feet shoulder-width apart to maintain spinal balance.
• Head Positioning: The barber uses their non-dominant hand to gently rotate the client's head left or right to expose anatomical planes without forcing the client to hold awkward neck positions.
• Navigating the Trachea (Area 14): Shaving directly over the peak of the thyroid cartilage (Adam's apple) is hazardous because the skin is thin, mobile, and stretched over hard, angular cartilage. The barber must instruct the client to swallow and relax, or gently use the non-dominant thumb to manually slide the skin sideways over the soft sternocleidomastoid muscle, shaving the skin while it rests flat against muscular tissue rather than over the cartilage ridge.

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Shaving Methodologies: Once-Over, Second-Time-Over & Close Shave

State boards test the candidate's understanding of different shaving approaches and their respective safety profiles.

The Once-Over Shave

The once-over shave is the standard commercial and therapeutic shaving service. It consists of a single complete lathering and a single pass through all 14 areas strictly with the grain. It removes the vast majority of visible facial hair while preserving maximum dermal comfort. It is mandatory for clients with sensitive skin, fine skin texture, or a history of pseudofolliculitis barbae.

The Second-Time-Over Shave

When a client desires an exceptionally smooth finish, the barber may perform a second-time-over shave.

• Following the initial once-over shave, the face is wiped with a warm damp towel.
• A light layer of warm lather or warm water is reapplied.
• The barber shaves across the face a second time, executing light, delicate strokes across the grain (perpendicular to the grain) or slightly against the grain in resilient zones.
• The barber continuously feels the skin with the moistened pads of the non-dominant fingertips to detect any remaining rough stubble.

The Prohibited "Close Shave"

A "close shave" refers to the practice of deliberately shaving directly against the grain on the initial pass, or pulling the skin with extreme, excessive tension so that the hair is cut beneath the surface of the follicular ostium.

State Board Warning: A close shave is universally condemned in professional barbering textbooks and state board examinations. When the stretched skin relaxes, the sharply beveled hair tips retract below the epidermal surface. As the hair grows, the sharp curved tip pierces the follicular wall or curls into adjacent dermis, causing severe pseudofolliculitis barbae (PFB), secondary bacterial folliculitis, epidermal gouging, and permanent scar tissue.

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Realistic Exam Scenario: State Board Shaving Sequence Execution in Areas 8, 9, and 10

Scenario: During a state licensing practical exam simulation, the candidate successfully shaves the right side of the face (Areas 1, 2) and transitions to the left side and neck. When moving to the left lateral neck below the ear (Area 9), the candidate hesitates, shifts their elbow upward awkwardly, and attempts to use a standard Freehand stroke from behind the client's head, cutting toward the ear.

Barbering Solution:

1. Diagnostic Evaluation: Attempting a Freehand stroke in Area 9 forces the barber's wrist into extreme hyperextension, blocks the line of sight, and angles the blade edge dangerously toward the client's ear lobule and carotid artery.
2. Proper Stroke Application: The candidate must use the Reverse Backhand stroke for Area 9. The hand is turned completely around with the wrist turned inward so the blade points downward and backward. This allows the front third of the blade to glide smoothly downward with the grain along the left mandibular angle.
3. Transition to Area 10: Upon completing Area 9, the barber steps smoothly back to the right side of the chair to execute Area 10 (right neck below the ear) utilizing the Reverse Freehand stroke, cutting upward or diagonal with the grain while stretching the lower skin downward.