Section 6.1: Shaving Fundamentals & The 14 Areas of the Face

Shaving Fundamentals & The 14 Areas of the Face

Shaving is one of the signature services of the professional barber, representing the historical foundation of the trade. Performing a safe, close, and comfortable shave requires a deep understanding of facial anatomy, hair growth patterns (the grain), razor handling, safety precautions, and strict sanitation protocols.

Client Consultation and Skin Evaluation

Every shaving service must begin with a thorough client consultation and skin evaluation. This is critical for preventing irritation, injury, and the spread of infectious conditions.

• Visual Inspection: Analyze the skin for any visible cuts, abrasions, moles, skin tags, warts, rashes, or inflammatory conditions.
• Tactile Inspection: Gently run your fingers over the beard area to feel for underlying cysts, nodules, or hidden lesions.
• Hair Growth Direction (Grain): Determine the direction of hair growth. Beard hair rarely grows in a uniform direction. It can change angles dramatically on the throat, jawline, and chin. Knowing the grain is crucial for selecting the appropriate shaving stroke and preventing irritation.
• Skin Type and Elasticity: Assess the skin's sensitivity and elasticity to determine the pressure and tension required.

Shaving Preparation and Sanitation

Because shaving involves a sharp blade coming into contact with the skin, the risk of micro-cuts and the transmission of bloodborne pathogens is a constant concern. A barber must adhere to strict sanitation guidelines.

• Hand Hygiene: Wash hands with warm water and soap, and sanitize them immediately before touching the client.
• Tool Disinfection: Clean and submerge the straight razor handle (the scale) in an EPA-registered disinfectant. A brand-new disposable blade must be inserted into the razor in front of the client. Never reuse blades.
• Client Draping: Place a clean towel across the client's chest, secured under the headrest. Apply a clean neck strip and a styling cape over the towel to protect the client's clothing. Lay another towel over the headrest for sanitation.

Hot Towel Application

Applying hot towels is an essential step that prepares the client's hair and skin for the razor.

• Purpose: The heat and moisture from the towel soften the hair cuticle (the outer layer of the hair shaft), making it much easier to cut. It dilates the pores, relaxes the facial muscles, and lubricates the skin, reducing friction.
• Technique: Retrieve a hot towel from the towel steamer. Test the temperature of the towel on the inside of your wrist to ensure it is not too hot. Place the towel over the client's beard area, leaving the nose and mouth exposed so the client can breathe easily. Leave the towel in place for several minutes until it begins to cool.
• Contraindications: Do not apply hot towels to skin that is inflamed, sunburned, blistered, extremely sensitive, or affected by active acne, eczema, or rosacea.

Lathering

Lathering provides a protective barrier between the skin and the razor blade.

• Shaving Soap and Brushes: Use a high-quality shaving soap or cream mixed with warm water. A badger or synthetic lather brush is typically used to create a rich, dense lather.
• Application: Apply lather to the shaving areas in a circular motion. This technique lifts the hair shaft away from the skin, ensuring the lather coats the entire hair cylinder.
• Benefits: Lather moisturizes the hair, holds it upright, and allows the razor to glide smoothly over the skin surface.

Safety Razor & Straight Razor Handling

Barbers use a straight razor (often a folding changer razor with disposable blades) to perform a classic shave.

• Razor Hold: Hold the razor between the thumb and first three fingers, with the handle pointing up at a slight angle. The little finger rests on the tang (tail) of the razor.
• Shaving Angle: Hold the razor blade at a 30-degree angle to the surface of the skin. An angle greater than 30 degrees will scrape or cut the skin, while an angle less than 30 degrees will clog the razor and fail to cut the hair cleanly.
• Stretching the Skin: Use the non-dominant hand to stretch the skin tightly about 1 to 2 inches behind the path of the razor. Always pull the skin in the opposite direction of the shaving stroke to create a flat, firm surface.

Anatomy of a Straight Razor

Barber exams frequently test the anatomy of a folding straight razor. The primary parts are:

• Head: The front end of the razor blade.
• Point: The corner of the cutting edge at the head.
• Blade: The main body of the razor.
• Back: The non-cutting edge opposite the blade.
• Shoulder: The part connecting the blade to the shank.
• Heel: The back corner of the cutting edge.
• Shank: The metal piece between the blade and the pivot pin.
• Pivot Pin: The screw/rivet that connects the blade to the handle.
• Tang: The curved metal tail at the end of the shank where the little finger rests.
• Handle (Scale): The protective cover that folds over the blade.

The Four Cutting Strokes

There are four primary razor strokes used in professional shaving, defined by the direction of the blade movement relative to the barber and the growth of the hair.

1. Freehand Stroke: The barber stands behind or to the side of the client. The razor is held with the blade pointing downward or slightly toward the barber. The stroke is directed downward, in a smooth, gliding motion. Used in zones 1, 3, 4, 8, 11, and 12.
2. Backhand Stroke: The barber's wrist is turned outward, pointing the elbow away from the body. The razor is held with the blade pointing upward, and the stroke is executed in a downward direction, moving away from the barber. Used in zones 2, 6, 7, and 9.
3. Reverse-Freehand Stroke: The razor is held with the blade pointing upward. The barber uses an upward stroke directed toward themselves. This stroke is commonly used in neck and throat areas (zones 5, 10, 13, and 14).
4. Reverse-Backhand Stroke: The razor is held in a backhand position, but the stroke is executed in an upward direction. This stroke is rarely used except in specific, hard-to-reach areas of the left side of the neck.

The 14 Shaving Areas of the Face and Neck

To ensure a systematic and complete shave, the face is divided into 14 distinct zones. The barber shaves these zones in a specific sequence, adjusting the razor grip and stroke direction for each area.

Shaving Procedures and Post-Shave Treatments

• First-Time Over Shave: Shave each of the 14 areas in sequence, moving with the grain of the hair. Keep the skin taut.
• Second-Time Over Shave (Once-Over): After completing the first pass, re-lather the face and shave across the grain to remove any remaining rough spots.
• Close Shave: Shaving against the grain is generally avoided on the neck to prevent irritation, but may be performed on the face if requested and if the skin is resilient.
• Post-Shave Treatment: Apply a cold towel to constrict pores, then apply an antiseptic toner or aftershave lotion to soothe the skin. Finish with a light moisturizer or talcum powder if desired.