Section 6.2: Mustache and Beard Design

Mustache and Beard Design

Beard and mustache design is a specialized art in barbering that requires the practitioner to analyze the client's facial structure, hair growth patterns, and features. By selecting the correct proportions, outlines, and trimming techniques, a barber can enhance a client's best features, camouflage flaws, and balance structural proportions.

Assessing Facial Shapes and Styling Principles

Every client has a unique face shape that dictates which beard and mustache styles will look best. The seven primary facial shapes are:

1. Oval: Considered the ideal face shape due to its balanced proportions. The forehead is slightly wider than the chin, and the jawline is softly rounded. Clients with oval faces can wear almost any style of mustache, goatee, or full beard. The barber's goal is to maintain this natural balance.
2. Round: Features width and length that are approximately equal, with soft, curved jawlines. The design goal is to slim and elongate the face. Keep the sides of the beard short and build length and volume at the chin. A squared-off beard, a goatee, or a Van Dyke style works well. Wide sideburns and bushy mustaches should be avoided, as they add horizontal width.
3. Square: Features a broad forehead and a strong, angular jawline. The design goal is to soften the sharp angles of the jaw. Create a rounded or oval-shaped beard. Keep the sides trimmed relatively short and blend them into a fuller, rounded chin area to create an elongated look.
4. Pear-Shaped (Triangular): This shape has a narrow forehead and a wide, prominent jawline. The design goal is to balance the wide jawline by adding width to the upper face and slimming the lower face. A full beard trimmed close to the jawline can help camouflage the wide jaw, while sideburns can be styled with moderate volume to add balance to the temples.
5. Heart-Shaped (Inverted Triangular): A heart-shaped face has a wide forehead and cheekbones that taper down to a narrow, pointed chin. The design goal is to add width and volume to the lower half of the face. A full, rounded beard adds needed weight to the chin and jawline, balancing the wide forehead.
6. Oblong: The oblong face is long and narrow, with straight cheeklines. The design goal is to visually shorten the face. Maintain full, thick sideburns and keep the sides of the beard fuller, while keeping the length at the bottom of the chin short. Avoid long goatees or pointed chin hair, which will elongate the face further.
7. Diamond: A diamond face has a narrow forehead, wide cheekbones, and a narrow chin. The design goal is to soften the prominent cheekbones and fill out the narrow chin. A full beard or a rounded goatee works well. The sideburns and side beard should be trimmed close to avoid adding width to the cheekbones.

Mustache Styles and Lip Lines

Mustaches can be styled to alter the appearance of a client's mouth and nose:

• Chevron: A thick, full mustache that covers the top lip. It looks best on wide faces and full lips.
• Pencil (Thin): A narrow line of hair just above the lip. It fits neat, narrow faces and thin lips, providing a clean, subtle look.
• Handlebar: A full mustache with long, curled ends. Adds drama and balances long faces.
• Horseshoe: A mustache with vertical extensions that run down the sides of the mouth to the jawline. Works best on round or square faces.
• Lampshade: Similar to a pyramid mustache but with slightly flared bottom corners. Fits most lip lines.
• Toothbrush: A small, rectangular patch of hair in the center of the lip. Rarely requested today but a classic historical style.

Beard and Mustache Trimming Techniques

Trimming beard and mustache hair requires precise control and execution of barbering techniques.

• Clipper-Over-Comb: This technique is ideal for blending the sides of the beard into the haircut, tapering length, and removing bulk. The comb is held in the non-dominant hand and inserted into the hair at the desired angle. The clipper is then run across the comb teeth to cut the protruding hair. Always move the comb slowly and keep the clipper blades flat and steady against the comb to prevent gouging.
• Shears-Over-Comb: Similar to clipper-over-comb, this technique uses haircutting shears instead of clippers. It is preferred for detailed shaping, blending delicate areas, removing stray hairs, and creating a softer, natural texture. The shears should be kept moving in sync with the comb.
• Outlining with Trimmers/Razors: Edgers (trimmers) are used to define the clean borders of the mustache and beard. A straight razor can be used for a sharp, clean finish on the neck and cheeks, always preparing the skin with lather or shave oil.

Defining Necklines and Cheeklines

Proper outlining is the hallmark of a professional beard design.

• The Neckline: The neckline is the lower border of the beard. To find the correct neckline, locate the Adam's apple and place one or two fingers directly above it. This point (usually about 1 to 1.5 inches above the Adam's apple) is the center of the neckline. Curve the line gently upward from this point toward the earlobes on both sides. Trimming the neckline too high creates an awkward "double chin" illusion, while leaving it too low looks unkempt.
• The Cheekline: The cheekline is the upper border of the beard. It can be left natural or defined as a sharp line. A standard cheekline is established by drawing a straight or slightly curved line from the middle of the ear (tragus) to the corner of the mouth. Remove all hair above this line.

Beard Styling, Products, and Maintenance

Once the beard is trimmed and outlined, appropriate styling products should be applied, and client maintenance should be discussed.

• Beard Oil: A lightweight, liquid oil consisting of carrier oils (such as jojoba or argan) and essential oils. It hydrates the skin under the beard, softens the hair shaft, and prevents itching and beard dandruff ("beardruff").
• Beard Balm: A thicker styling product containing beeswax, shea butter, and oils. It provides a light hold for styling and shaping while conditioning the hair.
• Mustache Wax: A stiff wax used to style mustaches, particularly for styles like the handlebar mustache that require strong hold.
• Client Maintenance: Advise the client to wash their beard daily with a specialized beard shampoo, apply beard oil to damp hair, and brush or comb the beard daily to train the hair to grow downward.