3.5 Muscles of the Head, Face & Neck
Key Takeaways
- Myology is the study of muscles; cosmetologists massage only in the direction from muscle insertion toward origin, because the insertion is the movable attachment and the origin is the fixed one.
- The epicranius (occipitofrontalis) covers the skull and consists of the frontalis at the forehead and the occipitalis at the base of the skull, joined by the aponeurosis tendon.
- The orbicularis oculi closes the eyelid, the orbicularis oris puckers the lips, the buccinator compresses the cheek, and the zygomaticus major draws the mouth up and back in laughing.
- Chewing is powered by the masseter and temporalis, the two masticatory muscles that clamp the mandible.
- The sternocleidomastoid rotates and lowers the head, the platysma extends from chest and shoulder to the chin, and the trapezius covers the back of the neck and upper back to rotate and control the shoulder blade.
Why Muscle Anatomy Is on a Cosmetology Exam
The NIC Cosmetology Theory content outline lists, under Scientific Concepts, "identify muscles and joints and their functions related to: head and face; arms and hands; legs and feet." The practical reason is massage. A facial or scalp massage applied against the muscle's working direction stretches and fatigues tissue instead of stimulating it, and repeated wrong-direction massage over the platysma or orbicularis oculi contributes to laxity in exactly the areas clients pay you to firm.
Myology is the study of the structure, function, and diseases of muscles. The body has more than 600 muscles in three types:
| Muscle Type | Control | Location Relevant to Cosmetology |
|---|---|---|
| Striated (skeletal) | Voluntary | Face, scalp, neck, arms, legs — the muscles you massage |
| Nonstriated (smooth) | Involuntary | Internal organs; the arrector pili attached to hair follicles |
| Cardiac | Involuntary | Heart only |
Origin, Insertion, Belly — and the Massage Rule
Every skeletal muscle has three parts:
- Origin — the fixed attachment, to an immovable section of bone or another fixed muscle.
- Insertion — the movable attachment, the part that moves when the muscle contracts.
- Belly — the middle, thickest portion between them.
ORIGIN (fixed) BELLY INSERTION (movable)
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MASSAGE DIRECTION: insertion --> origin
The rule: massage moves from the insertion toward the origin. Working origin-to-insertion pulls on the movable end and can strain the attachment. This single principle generates a steady supply of exam items.
Muscle tissue responds to massage pressure, electrical therapy, light therapy, heat, moist heat, chemicals such as certain masks and salts, and nerve impulses.
Muscles of the Scalp
Epicranius (also called occipitofrontalis) is the broad muscle covering the top of the skull. It has two parts joined by a tendon:
- Frontalis — the front portion, from the eyebrows to the top of the skull. Raises the eyebrows, draws the scalp forward, and causes horizontal forehead wrinkles.
- Occipitalis — the back portion, at the base of the skull. Draws the scalp backward.
- Aponeurosis — the flat, broad tendon connecting frontalis and occipitalis.
Muscles of the Eyebrow and Eye
| Muscle | Action | Cosmetology Relevance |
|---|---|---|
| Orbicularis oculi | Ring muscle surrounding the eye socket; closes the eyelid | Massage around the eye is circular and feather-light; "crow's feet" follow its fibers |
| Corrugator | Draws the eyebrow down and inward; causes vertical lines between the brows | The classic frown-line muscle |
| Levator palpebrae superioris | Lifts the eyelid | Distinguish from orbicularis oculi, which closes it |
Muscles of the Nose and Mouth
Procerus covers the bridge of the nose, lowers the eyebrows, and causes horizontal wrinkles across the bridge.
The mouth is the busiest region on the exam:
| Muscle | Action |
|---|---|
| Orbicularis oris | Ring muscle around the mouth; puckers and contracts the lips |
| Buccinator | Between the upper and lower jaw; compresses the cheek, expels air (blowing, whistling) |
| Zygomaticus major and minor | Extend from the zygomatic bone to the upper lip; draw the mouth upward and backward, as in laughing |
| Risorius | Draws the corner of the mouth out and back, as in grinning |
| Mentalis | Elevates the lower lip and raises and wrinkles the chin |
| Depressor labii inferioris (quadratus labii inferioris) | Depresses the lower lip and draws it to one side |
| Levator labii superioris (quadratus labii superioris) | Elevates the upper lip, opens the nostrils, as in expressing distaste |
| Triangularis | Draws the corners of the mouth down |
Muscles of Mastication
Two muscles do the chewing, and both are commonly tested:
- Masseter — from the zygomatic arch to the angle of the mandible; the primary muscle of chewing. It is the muscle you feel bulge when a client clenches.
- Temporalis — fan-shaped over the temple; assists in closing the jaw.
Both are frequently tight in clients who clench or grind, and both respond well to slow, circular petrissage during a facial.
Muscles of the Neck, Shoulders, and Back
| Muscle | Location and Action |
|---|---|
| Platysma | Broad sheet from the chest and shoulder muscles to the side of the chin; depresses the lower jaw and lip — the muscle behind "neck bands" |
| Sternocleidomastoid | From the sternum and clavicle to the mastoid process behind the ear; rotates and lowers the head, as in nodding |
| Trapezius | Covers the back of the neck and upper and middle back; rotates and controls the shoulder blade and draws the head back |
| Latissimus dorsi | Broad, flat muscle covering the lower back; controls shoulder and swinging movement of the arm |
The trapezius and sternocleidomastoid carry most of the tension in a client who has been reclined at a shampoo bowl. Supporting the head fully at the bowl — a specific requirement of R4-10-112(J)(1)'s client-protection duty when combined with proper draping — prevents the strain that produces post-service complaints.
Applying It: Facial Massage Direction
| Region | Insertion-to-Origin Direction in Practice |
|---|---|
| Forehead (frontalis) | Work upward from the brow line toward the hairline |
| Around the eyes (orbicularis oculi) | Light circular movement, inward on the upper lid and outward beneath |
| Cheeks (zygomaticus, buccinator) | Upward and outward toward the temples |
| Mouth (orbicularis oris) | Upward and outward from the corners |
| Neck (platysma, sternocleidomastoid) | Upward from the clavicle toward the jaw, never dragging downward |
Every direction in the table is an application of one rule: move toward the fixed attachment.
In which direction should a cosmetologist massage a muscle, and why?
Which two muscles together form the epicranius, and what structure joins them?
A client complains of tension where the head is turned and lowered. Which muscle runs from the sternum and clavicle to the mastoid process and performs that action?